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Thalestris24

3D Printers

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An option might be to connect via PC e.g. Proterface Printrun - anyone used it? I don't want to mess about with a Raspberry Pi though. I mean, I would, but it's so long since I used my Pi3, I'd have to update it, relearn things etc. And I don't have the time!

Louise

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Pronterface is what I use on my Tevo - not had any issues with it so would recommend, just use a good quality USB cable.

The rotary encoder issue is an odd one, that screen and encoder module if I recall are a fairly standard unit used in a lot of 3d printers, hopefully the company can send you just that part if its a hardware issue.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12864-LCD-Controller-with-SD-card-slot-for-Ramps-1-4-Reprap-3D-Printer-Display/152256077216?epid=1559297555&hash=item23732b5da0:g:DR0AAOSwuvFcRuwV

 

If you do go down the raspberry pi route, look at Octopi - will speed up the process of getting everything running as you just download the image.

Edited by upahill
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11 minutes ago, upahill said:

Pronterface is what I use on my Tevo - not had any issues with it so would recommend, just use a good quality USB cable.

The rotary encoder issue is an odd one, that screen and encoder module if I recall are a fairly standard unit used in a lot of 3d printers, hopefully the company can send you just that part if its a hardware issue.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12864-LCD-Controller-with-SD-card-slot-for-Ramps-1-4-Reprap-3D-Printer-Display/152256077216?epid=1559297555&hash=item23732b5da0:g:DR0AAOSwuvFcRuwV

 

If you do go down the raspberry pi route, look at Octopi - will speed up the process of getting everything running as you just download the image.

Yeah can't tell if it's the switch/encoder or if the problem is at the motherboard end. I can still use it - it's just a bit frustrating and I lack patience in my old age! The Ebay screens look very similar but aren't identical so not sure if I could do a straight swap. I'll wait and see what the supplier says. I'm not really certain who the supplier is - Amazon? CrealityDirectEU? Who's that really?!

Anyway, just about to fire the thing up and try printing some more parts :) I guess I have to do the preheat step to remove the current filament and put in another?

Louise

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Ahhh I think I've kindof sorted the rotary encoder now :). I found if I put some pressure on it to one side then it works ok. So looks like the encoder itself. However, now I've got another problem... The new filament (PLA+) isn't printing properly. It's coming out of the nozzle but sticking to the base. I'm thinking it's solidifying too soon? So that means the bed temperature is too low now? I tried increasing the nozzle temp from 185 to 200 but it's the same so I suspect it's the bed temp.

Louise

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PLA+ is not the same as PLA and needs different settings.  Both nozzle and bed need to be hotter.  This website may help even if you're using a different make.

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33 minutes ago, Gina said:

PLA+ is not the same as PLA and needs different settings.  Both nozzle and bed need to be hotter.  This website may help even if you're using a different make.

Thanks Gina

I know PLA+ is different though didn't appreciate how it would behave when I ordered it... I'm getting confused about how you set the printing temperatures since I'm setting them in the conf menu item but it's printing at a different temperature. Are there settings in the gcode file which override the printer menu or do I need to change the temps somewhere different in the menu? #learningcurve

Cheers

Louise

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I don't seem to be getting anywhere, sigh. Wasted day... Yesterday went so smoothly! I've tried setting the temperatures in the ranges recommended by the filament manufacturer - 190-230 (nozzle) and 60-80 (bed) but things are just not working. I'm wondering whether it could be something to do with the height of the nozzle? It looks about 4-5mm above the bed? I see filament coming out and winding itself into a ball and not really even reaching the bed. Any ideas, anyone? I've no idea how you adjust nozzle height?

Thanks

Louise

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49 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Thanks Gina

I know PLA+ is different though didn't appreciate how it would behave when I ordered it... I'm getting confused about how you set the printing temperatures since I'm setting them in the conf menu item but it's printing at a different temperature. Are there settings in the gcode file which override the printer menu or do I need to change the temps somewhere different in the menu? #learningcurve

Cheers

Louise

I'm afraid it's so long since I used this type of control on a 3D printer that I forget now.  I'm using the Duet WiFi control board which is controlled from a web browser remotely.

Edited by Gina

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4 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

I don't seem to be getting anywhere, sigh. Wasted day... Yesterday went so smoothly! I've tried setting the temperatures in the ranges recommended by the filament manufacturer - 190-230 (nozzle) and 60-80 (bed) but things are just not working. I'm wondering whether it could be something to do with the height of the nozzle? It looks about 4-5mm above the bed? I see filament coming out and winding itself into a ball and not really even reaching the bed. Any ideas, anyone? I've no idea how you adjust nozzle height?

Thanks

Louise

The nozzle should be something like 0.2mm above the bed.

I'll have to leave it to someone using the sort of controller you have, I'm afraid, Louise.  You need the bed level and the nozzle about the thickness of a piece of paper above the bed.

Edited by Gina
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@Gina has the point. You need the bed level so it’s the same height from the nozzle all the way across AND the printer needs to know where the bed is so it can print the right height. The optimum height is where a normal bit of paper just has friction between the bed and nozzle (making very sure that the nozzle does NOT have any bits of plastic protruding from it). Auto bed sensing systems can do this for you, IF they have been set up properly. If in doubt turn it off and back on and restart the calibration from scratch. I’ve seen what you’ve described when I’ve changed something and forgotten to reset the bed height before printing.

 

good luck

PEter

 

 

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I'm assuming that you are using the Creality Slicer. To change the print temperature in there on a temporary basis, select your normal print profile, and then on the menu go to Expert -> Switch to Full Settings. Answer Yes for the copy, and then find printing temperature on the left hand side. The link Gina provided said 220 to 240 for PLA+, and usually the box its supplied in will give a guide temperature too

I can see that Creality Slicer is based on Cura, or at least uses Cura Engine, but I can't currently see a way of creating a material profile for PLA+ in it instead of changing that setting every time. I assume there is a way, so I might look into it later. I'm just using a standard PLA at the moment so haven't had to tinker with the settings much

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Some machines set the temperature on the machine, some in the slicer. You should be able to see and change the temperatures on the printer itself, so you’re sure what you’ve got. Also useful to sometimes over extrude a little if the prints turn up a bit weak. I tried improved high speed PLA recently and had nothing but problems, sure I could have made it work, but don’t have the time. Normal PLA is good for most things.

 

PEter

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I've relevelled the bed now... When I looked there was a lot of extruded filament stuck on the end of the nozzle. I've cleaned that off now. There was a slight improvement thereafter and the Z-value on the screen was 0.3 when I looked, but it's still not sticking properly. I used the 'tune' feature to increase the nozzle and bed temperatures from the default values. I think I'm almost at the point of packing up for today. I'll have a couple more goes but otherwise it will have to wait until next Friday. I've been going by the 'box' recommended temps. Thanks for the help.

Louise

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9 minutes ago, Mognet said:

I'm assuming that you are using the Creality Slicer. To change the print temperature in there on a temporary basis, select your normal print profile, and then on the menu go to Expert -> Switch to Full Settings. Answer Yes for the copy, and then find printing temperature on the left hand side. The link Gina provided said 220 to 240 for PLA+, and usually the box its supplied in will give a guide temperature too

I can see that Creality Slicer is based on Cura, or at least uses Cura Engine, but I can't currently see a way of creating a material profile for PLA+ in it instead of changing that setting every time. I assume there is a way, so I might look into it later. I'm just using a standard PLA at the moment so haven't had to tinker with the settings much

I'll have to find temperature settings that work first! Can it be something other than temperature that's preventing the filament from sticking?

Cheers

Louise

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Dirty bed?  When I have problems with the filament not sticking to the glass, a good clean usually fixes it.

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8 minutes ago, Gina said:

Dirty bed?  When I have problems with the filament not sticking to the glass, a good clean usually fixes it.

I don't know - I don't think so - it doesn't seem dirty and it's hardly been used yet! It's the magnetic sheet bed. I'm tempted to go back to the creality filament and try with that again. At least if that works it will indicate it's something to do with the filament properties. I really need some sort of table for the printer. Being down on my hands and needs is very uncomfortable! 

Louise

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Bed adhesion.... black magic!! The slightly rough build sheets work quite well, some people like really clean glass, I use lots of purple glue, others hairspray. Getting the adhesion and nozzle height are key, the “default” temperatures should be less of an issue. At least you don’t need to wait long to see that something hasn’t stuck, so you can tweak things a little more. 
 

good luck.

 

Peter

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2 hours ago, Gina said:

 

The nozzle should be something like 0.2mm above the bed.

I'll have to leave it to someone using the sort of controller you have, I'm afraid, Louise.  You need the bed level and the nozzle about the thickness of a piece of paper above the bed.

Lousie as Gina said your bed is too far from the nozzle. I would start by going through the bed levelling procedure again. Send the printer to its home position, disengage the stepper motors, then place a slip of paper between the nozzle and bed. Adjust the height until you can feel a noticeable drag on the paper - it should still be able to slide out though. repeat for each corner and again if necessary. Don't overthink it , and if you end up with the gap being smaller than it should be then (show in the deposition of the filament) it will at least adhere to the bed - you can fine tune it later.  You should be able to alter and save the temperature profiles here. 

 

large.1478621368_ChangetemperatureProfile.jpg.e77912e72a2faa2452b610b8887682a5.jpg

 

Jim 

Edited by saac
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37 minutes ago, saac said:

 

Lousie as Gina said your bed is too far from the nozzle. I would start by going through the bed levelling procedure again. Send the printer to its home position, disengage the stepper motors, then place a slip of paper between the nozzle and bed. Adjust the height until you can feel a noticeable drag on the paper - it should still be able to slide out though. repeat for each corner and again if necessary. Don't overthink it , and if you end up with the gap being smaller than it should be then (show in the deposition of the filament) it will at least adhere to the bed - you can fine tune it later.  You should be able to alter and save the temperature profiles here. 

 

 

Jim 

Yes, yes I did all that. I didn't realise I had to keep doing it every time... Probably moving the printer didn't help. Anyway, after dinner I levelled again and also went back to the Creality-supplied PLA again and that's working fine, so the Sunlu PLA+ seems to need a lot of tweaking... I think I'll order another reel of ordinary black PLA. Any recommendations of affordable brands?

Louise 

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You need to relevel everytime you turn it on and check it every now and then, depending on how the first layer goes down. Always worth a relevel before any big jobs too.

 

Peter

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7 minutes ago, PeterW said:

You need to relevel everytime you turn it on and check it every now and then, depending on how the first layer goes down. Always worth a relevel before any big jobs too.

I have to admit that I don't relevel every time I use the printer, but I do on a regular basis and pretty much always if the printer has been sitting doing nothing for a while.

James

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28 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

PLA. Any recommendations of affordable brands?

Louise 

I am really impressed with 3D Printz.

https://3dprintz.co.uk/

PLA is £21, which i think is a very reasonable price for a good filament but you need to order over £50 though to get free delivery but I have found it very easy to print with.

Steve

 

Edited by teoria_del_big_bang

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Also I have used the PrimaValue PLA available from Amazon and it is okay but did not think it was a good as the 3D Printz. Some of the other cheap stuff of Amazon I did not fine very good at all.

Steve

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rigid.ink was just about the very best but they are not selling filament any more. The Economy range from colorFabb in The Netherlands is a lot cheaper pro rata and very good.  You might have a problem accommodating their very large reels though.

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1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

Yes, yes I did all that. I didn't realise I had to keep doing it every time... Probably moving the printer didn't help. Anyway, after dinner I levelled again and also went back to the Creality-supplied PLA again and that's working fine, so the Sunlu PLA+ seems to need a lot of tweaking... I think I'll order another reel of ordinary black PLA. Any recommendations of affordable brands?

Louise 

Experiment with the gap Louise, position it so that there is a real noticeable drag on the paper.  You will know if it is set right as soon as the printer lays down the first few lines of the raft/brim bed.  I had a similar problem as you described when I did my second print - it just wouldn't adhere to the bed. I reset the level this time lowering the gap and it worked fine.   For filament I've been impressed by the Creality supplied sample so I'm going to stick with that at the moment £17 or thereabout from Amazon.

Jim 

 

 

Jim 

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