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Basic SLR for Astro-Imaging

jayem123

By jayem123
in Getting Started With Imaging

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jayem123

jayem123

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Hola, 

 

I have a Skywatcher 130EQ. I purchased a mobile phone / holder to enable me to take pictures from my telescope with my phone - but it's proving more hassle than its worth.  Seeing as I already have a T Ring Adapter, I thought I'd buy a basic SLR to make it all a bit easier / straightforward.

Does anyone have any suggestions.  I've given myself a budget of £80 (£100 MAX) - I probably won't use camera much other than with the telescope, so I can't really justify spending any more. I'm guessing I only need a body, and I should be able to find something decent...right?

Amazon has https://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-350D-Digital-Camera-18-55mm/dp/B0007R6CHQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471618151&sr=8-4&keywords=SLR - is this an ok ?  Good idea/ bad idea?  do I need to get my head checked?

Thanks 

JAY

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Adam J

Adam J

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21 minutes ago, jayem123 said:

Hola, 

 

I have a Skywatcher 130EQ. I purchased a mobile phone / holder to enable me to take pictures from my telescope with my phone - but it's proving more hassle than its worth.  Seeing as I already have a T Ring Adapter, I thought I'd buy a basic SLR to make it all a bit easier / straightforward.

Does anyone have any suggestions.  I've given myself a budget of £80 (£100 MAX) - I probably won't use camera much other than with the telescope, so I can't really justify spending any more. I'm guessing I only need a body, and I should be able to find something decent...right?

Amazon has https://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-350D-Digital-Camera-18-55mm/dp/B0007R6CHQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471618151&sr=8-4&keywords=SLR - is this an ok ?  Good idea/ bad idea?  do I need to get my head checked?

Thanks 

JAY

I would not get a 350D these days,  the problem is that it will not support live view and had issues with amp glow. A 450D or 1000D should be within your budget. Am also in lincoln are you a member of any of the local clubs?

 

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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I've got both a 30D and a 70D.  The difference between the two camera is amazing - and I'm not talking in terms of mega pixels.   There are two features that make the 70D a much better camera for astro work.    The flip out screen, and the live view.  These two features alone make the camera the best option by a long long way.   Let me explain why.

When you attach the camera in prime focus, the sensor will be pointing up.  As a result, the screen will be pointing down.  To focus the image, you need to see the screen to make sure that you have it in focus.  There are two ways to achieve this, one bend over double to look at the screen on the back of the camera or use some software to view the image on your computer.  But methods are lots of hassle - just what you don't want.   With the flip out screens, you can twist them to a comfortable viewing angle which is perfect.

Without live view, the way to do it is to take an image, then preview that image, zoom in and adjust focus, take another image then rinse and repeat until you have focus.  It's a long laborious task.  With live view, you can get a star in the image, zoom in and work the focus getting real time feedback.  Much much more convenient - especially with an electric focus.

 

Do not under estimate the gains that you get from having these two features.  It changes the way that you'll work with your camera at the scope.  Besides, a DSLR can also be used for normal photography, it's an opportunity for another hobby for when it cloudy.

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Adam J

Adam J

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The

1 hour ago, cjdawson said:

I've got both a 30D and a 70D.  The difference between the two camera is amazing - and I'm not talking in terms of mega pixels.   There are two features that make the 70D a much better camera for astro work.    The flip out screen, and the live view.  These two features alone make the camera the best option by a long long way.   Let me explain why.

When you attach the camera in prime focus, the sensor will be pointing up.  As a result, the screen will be pointing down.  To focus the image, you need to see the screen to make sure that you have it in focus.  There are two ways to achieve this, one bend over double to look at the screen on the back of the camera or use some software to view the image on your computer.  But methods are lots of hassle - just what you don't want.   With the flip out screens, you can twist them to a comfortable viewing angle which is perfect.

Without live view, the way to do it is to take an image, then preview that image, zoom in and adjust focus, take another image then rinse and repeat until you have focus.  It's a long laborious task.  With live view, you can get a star in the image, zoom in and work the focus getting real time feedback.  Much much more convenient - especially with an electric focus.

 

Do not under estimate the gains that you get from having these two features.  It changes the way that you'll work with your camera at the scope.  Besides, a DSLR can also be used for normal photography, it's an opportunity for another hobby for when it cloudy.

Unless portability is a huge factor then I would always focus using a PC, so I have never missed the flip screen feature.

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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On 8/21/2016 at 08:58, alacant said:

Or look through the viewfinder and focus on the moon. HTH. 

Nope, that does not work too well.  Firstly there's the whole getting yourself into a position to be able to look through the viewfinder.  On my setup (Fork mounted SCT on a wedge) when the moon is to the south, it can be a challange to get my head under the scope to look through the viewfinder.

Then you have the issue of the diffusion screen that it present in all view finders.  This screen is there to help with focussing, works great during the day and for close up work.  However when you try to use it for astro work, the image is dull and always a bit blurry.   Getting to the pin sharp point of focus just doesn't work as it should.

This is why most people using DSLR's will make use of either software to act as a viewfinder, or liveview.   You can do the thing of take a photo and look at the backscreen, but without a flip out mirror, it's almost as bad as trying to geat your head in under the scope to look at the view finder.

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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4 hours ago, alacant said:

**I should have added that you need a right angle viewer attached to the viewfinder. HTH

Tried that too. It does make it more convenient to be able to look at the camera, but it still doesn't get over the problem of the diffusion screen.    Using the screen on the back of the camera is also easier.

Also as an alternative, I did try the Angle finder C.   It's a device meant for Macro photography, and for that it help you to get right in on the subject and get pin sharp focus.  In night time use however, it just makes the fuzzy diffusion filter in the viewfinder fuzzier.

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jayem123

jayem123

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Thank you all for your comments.  The cameras mentioned 450D and 70D seem to be a bit beyond my budget :-|

Would an easier option be to get a webcam?  would that be better?

So far I've been quite happy using my phone but the mobile adapters/mounts are tricky to set up and align.  So I really just wanted an easier/quick fix.

Has anyone used anything like this and is it any good? : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Telescope-Digital-Eyepiece-Camera-Astrophotography/dp/B017B08882/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1472379369&sr=1-26&keywords=telescope+camera+adapter

 

 

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geordie85

geordie85

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13 hours ago, jayem123 said:

Thank you all for your comments.  The cameras mentioned 450D and 70D seem to be a bit beyond my budget :-|

Would an easier option be to get a webcam?  would that be better?

So far I've been quite happy using my phone but the mobile adapters/mounts are tricky to set up and align.  So I really just wanted an easier/quick fix.

Has anyone used anything like this and is it any good? : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Telescope-Digital-Eyepiece-Camera-Astrophotography/dp/B017B08882/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1472379369&sr=1-26&keywords=telescope+camera+adapter

 

 

https://www.gumtree.com/p/digital-cameras/canon-camera-450d.-body-only.-charger-lowpro-case-canon-strap./1184840869

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alacant

alacant

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On 22/8/2016 at 23:43, Adam J said:

People image DSO's when the moon is up?

I do. The moon is only an issue when it's around full. Before and after this it's less of an problem, especially as it either sets before or rises after the time you could be imaging, giving those who require no moon to fit in a session. There's also a trend ATM to fit a red filter to the camera which allows you to image at full moon. It obliterates all but the brightest stars. HTH

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D Wright

D Wright

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I bought a Canon 450D body from Ebay for £40.00. I know it was a bit of a gamble as I knew the auto focus wasn't working but as I only want to use it for AP it did not matter. It turns out that it works brilliantly and is perfect in every other way. So look for bargains like this. The only problem was (you may find this too as previously mentioned) was that I couldn't get focus in my scope. I cut 20mm off the end of my tube to move the mirror closer and now all is fine. I know this sounds drastic and you may not want to do this.

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Adam J

Adam J

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2 hours ago, alacant said:

I do. The moon is only an issue when it's around full. Before and after this it's less of an problem, especially as it either sets before or rises after the time you could be imaging, giving those who require no moon to fit in a session. There's also a trend ATM to fit a red filter to the camera which allows you to image at full moon. It obliterates all but the brightest stars. HTH

I was probably being a little literal but it depends on how deep you are trying to go. I will image with a H-alpha filter when the moon is up and has good angular separation from my target, but if I am trying to go deep with very long exposures I dont waist my time. Even OIII is not perfect when the moon is more than 50%..

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barrie greenwood

barrie greenwood

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Hi the Sky-Watcher 130eq will not focus with a dslr it was the first scope I bought a few months back and it can't get focus  it will however work with a webcam

Don't rush into it as I did buying this that and the other do a good bit of research  first and ask the guys on here they have helped me out no end

Regards Baz

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alacant

alacant

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6 hours ago, barrie greenwood said:

the Sky-Watcher 130eq will not focus with a dslr

Hi. Can't find references to Skywatcher 130eq but maybe it's this one? To bring a dslr to focus, you can mount the mirror on top of the cell rather than below it as explained here. HTH

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jayem123

jayem123

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I've had my 130P for about 9 months now, so I gotta keep to what I got.  A friend has used a DSLR with the scope and she had the following advice:

"there were focusing issues initially, need to make sure that the aperture speed is reasonable, and also that you use the focusing 'dial' when they put the camera/lens in to bring out detail. (A mechanical shutter cable or wireless shutter activation is a must so that the image isn't distorted) . "

HTH someone.

So although I might be able to get a fairly decent SLR within my budget (thanks for the Links), i think it may still be a bit hit and miss with my scope, or I'll have to buy a number of accessories which will take me over my budget.  

Does anyone have any webcam suggestions.  This one looks quite nifty, but has anyone had any experience with it or one similar?  

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Telescope-Digital-Eyepiece-Camera-Astrophotography/dp/B017B08882/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1472379369&sr=1-26&keywords=telescope+camera+adapter

As always, really appreciate the help.

                   

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barrie greenwood

barrie greenwood

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Hi is the focal length 1000mm or 650mm

Not used that particular camera I use a Microsoft lifecam however your in the same boat as I was in it will only image planets not dso if you want to image those then the cheapest way is a Samsung scb 2000 it's a cctv security camera that stacks up in the camera and is sensitive to light and I'm having problems with mine however it's just about working through the problems

Depends what you want to do I've found its a massive subject and loaded with questions

Baz

Forgot to mention I got my Samsung from eBay for £29 second hand and you take out the ir filter which is easy peasy

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