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D Wright

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About D Wright

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    Star Forming
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    Carlisle Cumbria

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  1. Beautiful clear night last night. I went to my dark site and set all the gear up (still remember how). These are the results. M31, M71 and M27 Dumbell nebula. They are all taken with a Canon 60D through a 130PDS with coma corrector. The last one is a single frame of Albireo. Quite pleased with the results as M31 was taken when the moon was up and for all of them it was not true darkness. I have decided that I am not going to get better results until I can get a new mount to auto guide. I think I also have a lot to learn with post editing. I am still learning and have a long way to go.
  2. I feel very privilaged. At the Kielder observatory where I volunteer we have a TS optics 16" RC, a C16, an Eqinox 100 ED and a Coronado PST which I regularly get to play with. I think these would all come under the heading "dream scopes"
  3. I have a 130PDS mounted on a dual axis drive Vixen GP on a pillar mount, so is a similar set up to yours. I use a Canon 60D and I have found that on a good night I can get 90 seconds to 2 minutes unguided with most of the frames usable. I think the 2 minutes is maybe pushing it a little bit. Also I have tuned the mount and it does track particularly well if well polar aligned. I find it makes a difference if I use an adapted web cam to look through the polar scope when polar alligning. It elliminates the movement of your eye at the polar scope.
  4. I am wanting a cheap webcam to attach to my polar scope for polar alignment. Can anyone recommend a cheap camera which has good low light resolution and has exposure and gain controls which will easily pick out polaris. I know the Philips SPC 900 and the Logitec 920 would do it but as it only needs to do polar alignment I don't want to spend that much on one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  5. I went out with the scope last night but the moon was too bright and there was high cloud so I spent time on polar alignment tracking and focusing. Whilst focusing using Bahtinov mask on Procyon I took a 10 second exposure and noticed a faint green smudge above the star. I then took a 30 second exposure and this is the result. I cannot work out what this object is. It looks like a comet but there are no comets in this area of the sky. It may be light from the moon but it isn't in any other images. Also it looks too focused to be light flare and surely it would have been brighter in a shorter exposure too.
  6. +1 for this. I image using a dual axis motorised Vixen GP mount and I am currently having a lot of success. the only thing that is tricky is finding things, as I have to focus on a bright star using a Bahtinov mask then lock the focuser and try to find my target using a Telrad and 9x50 RACI finder. If you know the sky or can star hop this presents no problems.I would recomend going for the brighter objects first (much easier to find). I will when finances allow upgrade to GOTO but dont let it stop you.
  7. Hooray I have got it working now . Thankyou everyone for your help. You don't actually need to replace any files as the programme runs from the unzipped files. So i now have both 3.3.2 and 3.3.4. I will keep 3.3.2 to use with the 450D as I have read that 3.3.4 has some bugs and can crash at times.
  8. I uninstalled the program I had and downloded a new version it is version 3.3.2. As Carole has pointed out I should have 3.3.4. I am going to see if I can find the link and try it. Not sure what to do to get 3.3.4 so any help would be great.
  9. If you have a Skywatcher then there will be 2 x 1/4" holes on the top of the rings. I a pice of wood lengthways between the 2 rings then screwed a cross piece at 90 degree angle and I have a Telrad at one end and a RACI finder at the other nicely balanced. It also helps to balance the tube in the rings as all the weight is in the centre.
  10. If I can't sort it out I will have to start using the 450D again. Which is a shame as the 60D is so much better.
  11. I have downloaded the latest version of DSS and its still the same.
  12. Thanks I will give it a try
  13. I have a number of frames which I want to stack in DSS. They are taken with a Canon 60D in raw. When I open them in Windows photo viewer or a RAW editing programme they are fine, with an image size of 3456 x 5184. When I open them in DSS the images are only 1336 x 3516 and are only a small strip of the image which does not show the centre detail. Has anyone encountered this before or knows what the problem could be? I have stacked frames taken with a Canon 450D with no problems at all. Help greatly appreciated thanks.
  14. He's going to get a fantastic view of that tree.
  15. I use a dew heater band from W&W Astro and control it with a PWM controller I got from Ebay. It works very well. I use it on my Sigma 70 - 300mm and make sure the power is turned down to the point where there is no dew. Even at full power these heaters do not get hot.