600D or 700D price point

[RichM63]

Further to my earlier question about CCD or DSLR, it follows that I am opting for the DSLR.

I note that there is £100 price difference between;

600D with 18-55mm 111 lens at £449

700D with 18-55mm IS STM lens at £559

Do you knowledgeable folk know if this difference is down to the lens only and not the body.

The camera is a thank you gift, either is possible, but I don't want the giver to spend more than neccessary. (hate people being ripped off).

I will be using the camera mainly for astro work but also plan to use it during the day so will not be modding at this time.

This will be a new camera.

I know that there can be huge price differences in optics and would like to find out if this is the case here.

Many thanks in advance,

Rich

[Alien 13]

The cameras themselves are very similar i think the 700D is biased for better video performance and features than the 600D, the price difference will be in the lens i have the standard 18-55mm is 11 lens and it is a good performer fo astro i managed some shots wide open and not a hint of any coma away from the center much better than my nifty fifty could manage.

Why not split the difference and look at a 650D.

Alan

[StuartJPP]

The 700D is more expensive because it is a newer camera with some additional features. The STM lens is supposed to be better than the III version, especially with respect to movie mode auto focus and it has got image stabilization as well.

I'd opt for the 700D even if I had to contribute the extra £100 myself, especially since you said that you will be using it for daytime use as well. I also like the touch sensitive screen that the 650D and 700D has got...

It might be quite difficult to find a new 650D these days at a reasonable price there still seems to be a lot of 600D excess stock but not 650Ds.

[Tinker1947]

Don't discount a Modded 600D, i chose the cheap option in the following link, the camera will still do daytime photography just needs a slight adjustment.......

http://cheapastrophotography.vpweb.co.uk/

A daytime picture.....

[RichM63]

Thank you very much for the info everyone.

A couple of points,

Was I wrong not to include the 100D in the mix?

Why not split the difference and look at a 650D.

Because I didn't think that these were still available, although this was my first choice when the offer was made.

I'd opt for the 700D even if I had to contribute the extra £100 myself

I'm more than happy to do just that, but I doubt that the giver will allow me to and I value the friendship far above any possible feelings of  resentment that may arise from a perceived over spend.

Ah good to see that even a modded camera can still be used in the daytime. Cheers, Tinker.

So if the 100D is ruled out then the choices are as follows,

Cheap Astrophotography Baader modded 600D at £529 (does this fella provide a full warranty on New cameras?)

Unmodded 600D at £449 Argos

Unmodded 650D at £520 Amazon

Unmodded 700D at £579 Argos

All include a 18x55 lens

[happy-kat]

From reading a post the 700d does not have video crop mode, this feature in the 600d is being used to video planets. I don't know if the 650d had it or not. So I personally wouldn't get the 700d for that reason.

[Mark_C]

If you're not bothered about a camera being used, you can pick up some pretty decent bargains second hand. I recently picked up an EOS 60D body (which has movie crop mode, useful for planetary imaging) with less than 5000 actuations for £310. The kit lens can be bought relatively cheap used too. I will be getting my 60D astro modified soon!

[Owmuchonomy]

From reading a post the 700d does not have video crop mode, this feature in the 600d is being used to video planets. I don't know if the 650d had it or not. So I personally wouldn't get the 700d for that reason.

Neither has true video crop mode. The 600D I own has the equivalent 640x480 mode but it is not true video crop mode. If you want true video crop mode at 60 fps for planets you need a 60D (or 70D) which I also own.

[RichM63]

Thanks Chris, a 60 or 70 (D) would be nice but I can't honestly push that far.

Re S/H, unfortunately I am in a different country and can't drive to a vendor's place to check the goods, which is what I always do when purchasing anything 'tech' at a reasonably high price.

Cheers,

Rich

[Avocette]

One nice feature of the STM lens is that the focusing takes place internally so the front lens doesn't rotate during focusing and so you can more easily use a polarising filter and a 'petal' type lenshood. In the dark, attached to a scope, this won't be relevant of course, and I'm not personally convinced that I'd want to work with a touch screen (I haven't tried the 700 to see how well this works and I think there are still buttons for many functions).

[RichM63]

I've just had confirmation that a 700D + STM has been ordered.

So to connect to the OTA is it better to use a T2 or M48 adapter or do I need combinations of the two?

I'm a bit lost on the adapters page.

Cheers,

Rich

[happy-kat]

For ease of occasional use I like this coupled with the t mount adaptor also from flo makes a quick easy attachment to telescope for my occasional use.

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-125-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html

[RichM63]

Ha, I think I already have a couple of those.

I was really meaning the bit that locks into the camera body, I'm sure someone said M48 was the way to go rather than EOS T2 but I can't remember why.

I want to get this right as I will be ordering other bits from my end (guide scope, dovetail bar, possible guide cam) so one delivery charge would be beneficial.

[Tinker1947]

You will need a T-Ring thats the bit that clicks into the Canon body, this has a m42 thread which you screw in a Adapter to fit into your focuser, if you are using a Newt you will need a Coma Corrector this will replace the Adapter 

T-Ring with Baader CC, the Adapter is the same size as the Baader CC but has no glass inside it unless your add Filters...

[RichM63]

Great Tinker, explanation + picture, couldn't be better.

Thanks,

Rich

[daz]

It's been a long time since I imaged with a newtonian so this may not be relevant with a DSLR....

You *may* find that you cannot achieve focus on the scope because you can't get the draw-tube inwards enough. This gives you choices - change the focuser for a low profile one, move the mirror up the tube or use a barlow.

Like I say, this may not be relevant for you, and others I'm sure will quickly tell me to shut up if this is the case

[RichM63]

I've got one way to find out Daz.

However apart from a later camera this will be an almost identical setup to the one used by Quatermass/Mark up to him swapping in an ED80.

His results certainly give me hope that I'll achieve something.

Baby steps at the moment.

[RichM63]

WOO HOO IT'S ARRIVED!

My friends came through, and today arrived bearing the gift of a brand new beautiful boxed Canon UK guaranteed 700D with 18-55 STM lens kit. + a hugh jar of those big yellow pickled onions. :)

To say I'm chuffed would be an understatement. I never thought that helping someone out would result in this. Just goes to show, there is still goodness in the world.

From my first question to today has been around 6 months of patience, and just as importantly receiving the input and expertise of you guys.

A big thanks to all of you!

I'll, keep my following questions as appropriate as I can.

But I really am a total novice, this is the first time I have ever held a DSLR, never mind hooking one up to a telescope.

In the words of the song, "I'm so excited"!

All the best,

Rich

[wxsatuser]

Nice and enjoy.

[Avocette]

Good on you - a favour returned!

One bit of advice for just holding the DSLR that I learned (from Olympus as it happens but equally applicable to Canon) is to lay the camera on your left palm, thumb and first finger slightly curled around the lens, fully supporting the weight of the camara body and lens so that your right hand is free to manipulate the controls and direct the shooting without carrying any weight. It becomes second nature after a while.