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Owmuchonomy

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Everything posted by Owmuchonomy

  1. Hi Adele, welcome to SGL. Regarding lightweight for a backpack, don't discount a good pair of binoculars. If you are happy to use resources such as the book Turn Left at Orion to find targets then it may be a good starting point. Enjoy.
  2. Whichever camera gives you the most appropriate resolution and field of view to get it all in. What scope are you using? There is no advantage to using a modified DSLR (assuming it is modified for Ha sensitivity) with that particular target.
  3. That's a super image from just down the road.
  4. Very nice purchase. You say it's front end heavier than the ED150? Thats heavy! The ED150 could do with a composite hood instead of the metal one to reduce that issue. Enjoy.
  5. Mars is pretty small now; about 5" so will be quite underwhelming. It should be just discernible as a disk using your 9mm EP though.
  6. All good advice above. I'm not as clever as those guys so I use a simple formula whereby the ideal focal length is 5x your chip pixel size. So if your pixel size is 5 microns you need to aim for f/25; for 3 microns, f/15. That said there are other factors I also find critical, predominantly defeating the seeing conditions. That is all about collecting frames during the best seeing so I aim for at least 80fps and use an IR pass filter where possible. As @vlaiv says aim for very fast shutter speeds and a high gain setting. I use flat frames but never bother with dark frames for lunar with
  7. We use Lunt and PST specifically designed Ha solar scopes. We do not attempt WL observing. We also give a preamble on never looking at the Sun without properly designed equipment supervised by experienced solar observers. Never leave the equipment unattended. We had a great turnout for the Mercury transit.
  8. If you purchase a solar filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html) for your 150 PDS you will be able to image in white light only. You could make your own with Baader film too. The only features you will pick up are sunspots or in periods of great seeing you may resolve some surface granulation. You can use your Nikon at prime focus but it's best to take high frame rate video and stack the results to get a final image. Best to use your ZWO ASI 120MM but check with the FOV calculator on the FLO site to see how much of the solar disk you can acco
  9. It's a great topic for our visitors, and then I start explaining the (original source) wavelength of the light captured in these images by our mundane camera sensors and what that means. Minds blown!
  10. At 8 billion LY distant, the sudden brightening in 2016 of a Quasar (CTA-102) in Pegasus is probably the most distant visual target I have shared with visitors to the obsy. Attached is an image captured too.
  11. In order to satisfy your desire for long exposure astrophotography you have to remove all the artefacts produced by the Earth’s rotation, for example, star trails. To do that you need a device that is perfectly aligned to the Earth’s axis and rotates at the same pace as the Earth. That device is an EQ mount. The mounts are often fitted with polarscopes perfectly aligned to their axis. The orientation of other attachments such as cameras and telescopes is largely irrelevant. ‘Attaching’ a polarscope won’t give polar alignment. Your best bet is to invest in a decent EQ mount or try one of the el
  12. It's a beautiful target and so rich in fuzzies.
  13. I hope you can solve the problem. Try and separate the two main functions of GoTo accuracy and PA accuracy. They are not necessarily completely interdependent. For observing it is a high priority for accurate GoTo but PA accuracy is less critical. For imaging it is very important to achieve very accurate PA but your mount must also be in tip top condition, without backlash in the axes for example. For accurate GoTo I would suggest you use the 3 star alignment as in your original set up. This process adjusts for cone error in your setup. Make sure when aligning stars in your eyepiece tha
  14. The three star routine is best avoided for Synscan Polar Alignment. Its primary function is to the correct cone error of your optical tube. To perform an accurate polar alignment of your mount, first ensure the OTA is in the home position and the EQ axis roughly pointing to Polaris. Ignore the polarscope. Next perform a two star alignment using two stars on the same side of the meridian that you will be imaging your target. Then run the polar alignment routine on the Synscan menu. After 2 or 3 iterations of the Synscan routine using a high power eyepiece the polar alignment should be very
  15. The Sun's disk currently has two active regions. One of them has a visible spot on the receding limb at about 4 o'clock. That should be easily visible with your set up. Use your 40mm EP and get the Sun's limb in view then check focus carefully. Other than spots you are not likely to pick out any detail in white light unless the seeing is spectacularly good when you may see some faint granulation.
  16. Most DSOs are very faint even for a 10” mirror. By far the best tool is the book Turn left at Orion. I strongly recommend you purchase that and use it as your guide when observing. Remove the light pollution filter too.
  17. A very good experience with both my AzGti and AZ EQ 6 wifi operation. Both mounts are also compatible with a handset. I use iPhone and the Synscan PRO App which is clever enough to know which mount I'm using and if it's Az or EQ setup. Make sure you get the pro version of the App not the standard version. It's very easy to use and I even let the visitors to the obsy use it (particularly the younger ones who can work it instantly!). There's nothing to be concerned about; if I can work it anybody can. The only hidden items I know about are for solar tracking (quite rightly). Once you know
  18. Have you checked your Dec axis for backlash? A lot of input corrections there trying to correct your Dec. If you haven't done so already, check the mount backlash is in good order then come back to the guiding analysis .
  19. As above, Polaris is actually about 43 arc minutes from the NCP so will appear to circle it.
  20. During our outreach sessions at the obsy, by far the easiest option for us is a small refractor on an iPhone controlled Az-Gti mount. We just pick the whole thing up and walk outside with families and set it up in minutes. It requires a 12V supply, either mains or battery. I use a cordless drill battery (USB output) through a 5V to 12V converter lead. It will last many evenings between charges. I personally wouldn't use the MAK we also have because its a bit like looking down a tunnel (narrow field) and focussing a MAK is not for little hands. Your budget is more than enough to cover thi
  21. Will you be purchasing a new mount to go with it or will you use an existing mount? The optical tubes you describe are much larger and heavier than your C5.
  22. Sounds like you have a plan. Things would go better if you could use a high frame rate mono camera and an IR pass filter. That's not to say the DSLR results will be disappointing but you are less likely to defeat the 'seeing' issues with your set up. I'm not sure of your pixel size but I imagine they are around the 5 micron size so with your scope the 5x Barlow is a must to get the best image scale and sampling rate. Regarding software, when I used a DSLR I just used the bundled Canon package. It's more than adequate. My best results have been achieved with a combination of an ASI290 mon
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