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Owmuchonomy

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Owmuchonomy last won the day on October 2 2018

Owmuchonomy had the most liked content!

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About Owmuchonomy

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    Male
  • Interests
    Rejuvenated childhood interest in Astronomy. Photography, cycling, classic rock.
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    Harrogate N. Yorks
  1. It will depend upon the band pass of your respective filters to some extent. Green I understand, because you want that part of the spectrum for your OIII and red for your Ha. I have a 1.25" visual Astronomik UHC filter which is nothing short of spectacular on M42. The filter produces no aberration at all and the stars dim slightly (obviously) whilst the nebulosity becomes granular. Last week during our last event at LTO, the public commented on how the filter produced a '3D effect' on M42 (through my ED80). On the veil though my Baader OIII prevails due to the high proportion of OIII revealed.
  2. You may wish to check this concurrent thread too. I also have your mount but have never used the polar scope. It's not necessary. Just do a rough alignment then use the handset polar alignment routine as described in the manual. It's quite straightforward even if you can't see Polaris. Also, remember a compass gives you magnetic north not true north.
  3. Yep. Level your mount. Roughly align your mount axis to the pole. Do a 2 star GoTo alignment (not 3) then follow the routine on the handset. Using an increasingly powerful EP will help with accuracy. Folks who can't see Polaris can use it too.
  4. It surprises me how many don’t know or ignore it. It works very well, so well that I needed little adjustment using PhD2 tools to refine it for imaging.
  5. Or you could save some time, effort and expense and use the polar alignment routine already built into the Synscan handset. It will also save you the back breaking exercise of using a polar scope. From personal experience, the number of iterations required to get good alignment is reduced by ensuring the mount is level.
  6. In addition to @vlaivexcellent response above, many solar imagers (me included) primarily use the ZWO ASI 174MM for this purpose (and the ZWO ASI 290 MM for solar and particularly lunar). If I were to choose a colour camera for planetary imaging then I would personally go for the ZWO ASI 224. Examples of images taken with 2 of these cameras on my Flickr page.
  7. As far as I know it’s actually brightness when SN can only be roughly estimated so maybe yes, maybe no. Interestingly, imaging shows that it’s axis of rotation is not pointed at Earth otherwise we would be in serious danger of being hit by high energy radiation such as gamma. I also saw a presentation of a century of magnitude data which suggests the current dimming is not unusual. It’s a hot topic though .
  8. Yes, but make sure even for limb shots that you fill the chip with de focused sun. I have also used cling film over the objective at small apertures but the method you describe works best for my 60mm aperture.
  9. I reiterate what Geoff says about power supply. Very commonly the power supply is to blame. Make sure it is capable of providing 12 to 14volts and up to 2 amps continuously.
  10. The Astronomik UHC gives me the most contrast on common targets and is magnificent combined with my ED150. The Great Orion nebula and the Rosette are staggeringly good with that combination. I have a Baader 2" OIII too and that is slightly better with targets that have significant OIII such as the Veil.
  11. I can only disagree with the above. I owned two so called Powertanks for use with my HEQ5 and both were next to useless lasting about 30 minutes. A regulated mains supply is the only way to go unless you don’t have access to mains. I used a 5amp regulated 12V mains supply unit. It had a cigar lighter option for taking the standard mount cable. That should cover mount and accessory use such as dew heater.
  12. Hi Rebecca, thanks for joining and your shout out. You may find reaction is a little subdued. The eclipse is penumbral as you identified which means it is unlikely to be discernible to spectators. You may also wish to ask a moderator to move your post to the Lunar Observing section and thus get more specific responses. Good luck.
  13. That’s rather a good take on a HDR object. The trapezium core is well attenuated. Thanks for posting.
  14. Are you near any Astro clubs or facilities? They are good resources for getting beginners started. I often run telescope ‘surgeries’ for local people To Harrogate/Ripon to get them going. The one I just did dealt with a scope that was seriously poorly collimated out of the box.
  15. The favoured technique for Lunar (and planetary) imaging is to use fast frame rate video and then stack the best frames using stacking software. There are dedicated cameras for this purpose. Your DSLRs have much larger sensors hence the issue you have with the image not filling the sensor. Some DSLRs have a crop sensor video mode (my 600D did) which helps with these issues. It reduces the area of sensor used thus increasing the image scale of your target and also cuts the file size considerably to aid in fast capture and stacking. This is probably your first port of call followed by pixel scale matching with a powermate or similar. Aim for a f/ ratio of 4 to 5x your pixel size. Checkout the planetary imaging section on this forum for hints and tips.
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