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Owmuchonomy

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About Owmuchonomy

  • Rank
    R Class
  • Birthday 02/09/59

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Rejuvenated childhood interest in Astronomy. Photography, cycling, classic rock.
  • Location
    Harrogate N. Yorks

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  1. Yes, all good advice. Like Michael, Autostitch works best for me on my MAC. You can also apply an artificial flat but I tend to do this for whole disk rather than mosaic panes. Try this: http://photographingspace.com/solar-flat-fields/
  2. I am completely magnetised and thank you for excellent freeware!
  3. Don't be put off. This has happened to me and the rest of us solar junkies too I imagine. If you are looking for feedback perhaps I can suggest you ease off the sharpening or curve stretching (I'm not sure what processing procedure you apply). On my screen it looks a bit 'overcooked'. During capture I always take a 70% histogram reading from the disk centre and then I don't change it no matter what the limb section read out is on the histo. The other thing I am just about to remedy myself is uneven illumination on the panes most likely caused by tilt. Regarding flats they are very useful for mosaics as Pete says above.
  4. Lovely K line work Michael. Just clouds here I'm afraid. Tomorrow looks good though so fingers crossed.
  5. I could do it but.. !
  6. I managed some visual about 10am before I got distracted servicing my MTB crankset and pedals before the rain came. That filament was impressive through the Lunt 60.
  7. For imaging, mine is indispensible but I guess you are concentrating on visual.
  8. Hi Ray, the most widely adopted method for imaging solar system objects is to use a technique labelled 'lucky imaging'. This involves taking short, high shutter speed videos of your target. This is accomplished without the use of the eyepieces in the imaging train. This is why the camera of choice is a high speed planetary camera such as (in my case) a ZWO ASI 174 or 290 cam. That said, I used to use my Canon 60D using the true movie crop video mode set at 60 frames per second. This isolates a region of interest on the sensor allowing for fast video capture. You could try the video modes of your 5D Mk 3 but thats a BIG sensor so you may capture tons of unwanted data. Next you have to match the focal ratio of your scope with your camera. I believe your scope is f/5 so as a rule of thumb you need an f/ of 5x your sensor size which is around f/20 I believe. So you would benefit from a 4x Barlow or Powermate. Finally, there are lots of freeware packages that will stack your video frames. I use Autostakkert AS!2. Check the planetary imaging section for what folks use. Good luck.
  9. Do you think if I took my Lunt 60 they would notice if I swapped it over?
  10. No, For a f/10 scope you need 2x. That gets you to f/20. Don't go more than that. Hope that helps.
  11. Cloud even though not visible to the naked eye or condensation on your sensor!
  12. Hi Charl, wow, great gift. I am MAC through and through. However, not all software is compatible. The main ones I use on my MAC are oaCapture, ImPPG, both of which you may know are designed by SGL users @JamesF and @GreatAttractor and Auotstakkert AS!2. So that is capture, stacking and processing for my Planetary, Solar and Lunar. ImPPG and AS!2 run great on a MAC but you need to put them in a Wineskin. There is a tutorial on Emil Kraikamp's web page on how to do that. It's quite simple. oaCapture is designed purely for MAC. PHD2 runs directly on a MAC no problem so that's your guiding. I don't use a lappy for scope control but Kerry is correct in what he says. Final processing I use Photoshop which also runs directly on a MAC.
  13. Hi Charl thanks for the heads up it means I can savour my coffee and sandwich and not rush home!
  14. Hi Victor, nice choice of scope. If you want to attempt solar system imaging with it then make sure you match the camera to the scope. It will be tricky to keep the object centred on the chip during video capture but others have achieved that on here. I assume you are not getting the GoTo version? The quick rule of thumb is that you should image at a focal length of 5 x the pixel size (microns) so I think the scope you have picked is f/5. 5 x 3.75 is approximately f/20. Therefore you will need a 4x barlow/powermate to match the 120 camera. Good luck.
  15. Yup, love that Ha.