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Owmuchonomy

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Owmuchonomy last won the day on October 2 2018

Owmuchonomy had the most liked content!

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About Owmuchonomy

  • Rank
    R Class

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Rejuvenated childhood interest in Astronomy. Photography, cycling, classic rock and cars.
  • Location
    Lime Tree Observatory, N. Yorks
  1. The OP is asking about visual comparisons. If the debate is about imaging then it's a different scenario to that I describe above.
  2. I have an ED80 and a C9.25. The C9.25 naturally takes less effort to achieve a reasonable image scale when viewing. The ED80 would need a very short f/l EP to get the same image scale and this brings its own issues, particularly eye relief. If you widen the debate to SCT vs refractor in general then it becomes more difficult to choose. I am fortunate to also own an ED150; put that against the C9.25 and it's a different matter, the views being very hard to distinguish. If the seeing is poor or there is slight cloud cover, the refractor wins at that aperture.
  3. Mars can be a bit underwhelming visually. I'm sure you have a good idea of how to improve matters but here are a few tips: 1) Wait until its at its highest point in the sky thereby reducing the atmospheric interference 2) Make sure your scope is collimated 3) Use a red filter to improve surface detail views... 4) ...or use an ND filter to cut the brightness (high cloud cover helps attenuate views of bright planets too.) The scope you have should be fine.
  4. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/skywatcher-eq6-extension-tube.html
  5. I wasn’t really looking for any action last night as the shower is usually a weak one but around 9:30pm just as I arrived home after our bike ride we were treated to an excellent fireball passing between Alkaid and Seginus. The colour was a dominant red. I’m not sure if that is typical of this shower but it was certainly an excellent view. I set up to image Mars later but the skies were quiet although my back was turned toward the radiant. Any others spot anything?
  6. A Flashing LED on this mount is indicative of a voltage drop somewhere in the supply. It would seem the problem is intermittent so I would thoroughly check the connections, cables and PSU. Do both axes rotate freely by hand when the clutch is disengaged?
  7. Sounds to me as though you really want something that will help you find targets. Whilst a manual Dob is great for sucking in the photons as John intimates it requires learning your way around the sky and manually nudging to star hop and keep objects centred. That can be fun in itself so maybe think what your priorities are. I've been through lots of scopes and mounts and still own various options. I now do a lot of outreach and the setup I always fall back on with the public is an 80mm refractor, an AZ Gti mount and an EQ6 tripod, combined with a drill battery and an iPhone App. It is highly portable, works all night, is easy to align can find anything and gives the punters views of all types of objects. I have eyepieces ranging from 4.7mm to 24mm. You didn't make a mistake selling the Meade; it took me two weeks to get one working and tracking for someone in the Dales just because the software support ran out years ago.
  8. Question 2: For imaging in Ha it is best to use a mono high frame rate planetary camera matched to the focal length of the LUNT 50 such as the ZWO ASI 174MM. A DSLR will give relatively poor resolution because you are only using the red pixels. The LUNT 50 is also a bit tricky to deal with when it comes to back focus so be prepared to experiment and I'm not sure a DSLR will be able to focus. Accurate focusing will be helped a bit by the choice of the FT focuser unit which is a massive improvement on the poor LUNT helical unit. As Peter says above it is a bit of a steep learning curve to image in Ha.
  9. I'm selling the MAK to thin out my stock. This is a great scope that I purchased in November 2019 from FLO. The quality exceeds the SW equivalent and the aperture is a true 127 unlike the SW. F/l of 1900 makes it a great planet viewing option or spectacular lunar observation tool. It is barely used and comes complete with original packaging, paperwork, unused diagonal, visual back, red dot finder and 26mm plossl. The usual marks on the dovetail and a tiny cosmetic scuff on the paint (shown). I used it on my AZ-Gti and AZ EQ 6 mounts. Pick up preferred from the Harrogate area but shipping could be arranged at your cost if necessary (UK mainland only). £220 by bank transfer please. No offers.
  10. Excellent advice above. I have used both the 290 and 174 mono for Solar and Lunar (examples in the link in my signature). In fact I did a comparison on here some time ago. If that is one of your priorities then strongly consider these options. The IR sensitivity of the 290 produces excellent lunar images if a little bit softer than the 174. Or other options for OSC as @vlaiv says.
  11. ASI290. Good ratio at native f/l. Extremely good near IR sensitivity too.
  12. FLO's service is second to none. Regarding your shopping list I would suggest for planetary imaging to reconsider your scope choice predominantly to obtain one that can achieve a much better image scale. Critical to planetary imaging is focal length. For example planetary imaging is routinely conducted at long focal lengths; in my case around 4.6 metres. That may be difficult to achieve with the scope you have chosen so just check a few calculations first. Scopes often used include the SCT or Maksutov designs which can achieve longer focal lengths in a relatively small compact design. You should also aim to achieve a f/ of roughly 4 to 5 times your pixel size of the camera. For example if the pixel size is 3 microns then a f/ of around 12 to 15 would be ideal. This can be achieved with the use of barlow lenses or Powermates.
  13. You have to use manual focus in live view. Turn OFF image stabilisation. Turn up the ISO as high as it will go and focus on a star or stars using live view 5x. Leave the focus setting there or better still, tape the lens focus ring so it can't move. Go back to the ISO setting of choice for your capture.
  14. Hi, your main issue with that scope is lack of focal length. If it is planetary imaging you wish to do then you will need a lot more focal length. It is also best to use a technique called ‘lucky imaging’. For this you will need a high frame rate planetary camera. For example, I image planets at approximately 4600mm focal length using an ASI174 planetary camera. I achieve this by adding a 2x powermate to my C9.25” SCT to get the desired focal length of 4.6 metres and focal ratio of f/20. You need to aim for a f/ of 4 to 5 times your cameras pixel size. I can also use my ASI290 chip camera at the native focal length of the SCT f/10 because the pixel size is smaller (2.9 micron). Thus f/10 is in the right ballpark for planetary imaging in this setup.
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