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About StuartJPP

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    Brown Dwarf
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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Birding and now a bit of astrophotography.
  • Location
    Leeds, UK

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  1. My last imaging run bagged me 53x 5 minute subs with no dropped ones, so wasted time was purely down to dithering and image downloading which is not strictly wasted. The reason that I believe I manage to do this often (i.e. when we get the chance) is because every cable is trimmed to the right length, everything is marked as to where things should go, i.e. counterweights, dovetails etc...No flex, everything is bolted down that needs to be bolted down. There is no possibility of cables snagging or pulling out. The same USB ports are used for the same devices. When my box of bits is empty the rig is set up, if there are any clips, clamps, cables etc. left in the box, something is not set up right. The netbook I use is purely for astro use and I don't update anything except for Windows defender for very minimal protection. All manner of wireless connectivity is turned off during imaging. New version of PHD2....Forget it, new version of APT? Don't bother....Unless it is something that is causing an issue or adds functionality that you are actually going to use... I.e. if it ain't broke, don't fix it....Leave it alone. If things do need sorting, do it in the comfort of a warm room, don't waste imaging time unless it is to test something that needs a dark sky. I used to have much less success when I didn't follow the above regiment. If things do go wrong, it won't be because of something that could have easily been avoided, it will be because of component failure. Good luck.
  2. Stepping up from 5V to 7.2V is less desirable than stepping down from 12V. This is usually the case for circuits drawing more than a few 10's of mA. Most of the boost converters (step-up) from eBay are quite rubbish but the buck converters (step-down) are actually decent.
  3. I also use it occasionally on both a 6D and 650D and it is good. As mentioned it works better with a wired connection but that only works on my recent phone as my old one didn't have OTG. One tip if you use lenses, set the camera to back button focus, so that when you release the shutter it doesn't try to focus the lens. Overall it is a good app.
  4. I have a number of LP-E6 batteries (basically the same as the LP-E6N) and all but one are genuine. I find that two batteries in a battery grip suit me all day so a set of 3rd party ones as backups would probably suite a very heavy user just fine. Out of interest...of all the batteries I do have the one that lasts the least number of shots is the 3rd party one, and by quite a large margin (circa 36 shots of 5 minutes vs. 56 shots), it may be a coincidence but then again it may not be (after all there's 5 other genuine ones to go up against). Initially 3rd party batteries may hold a charge well, but I find long term they suffer...but they are a lot cheaper, so you get what you pay for... Oh and good advice from above, I labelled mine when I got them so I know their history. I also do a very occasional test on all of them to see how well they still hold a charge hence the 5 minute shot count...easy to do with an intervalometer.
  5. The mist has never really been a problem because there is generally always a breeze in Fuerteventura but the cloud has been an issue, probably 50% success. Being at sea level you are at the mercy of all cloud, would be great to be above the cloud line. No such thing as a dumb question....but probably my attempt at explaining it will be dumb... Comparing two latitudes with similar longitudes on the same date: if an object is lower in the sky in the north at one latitude then an object in the south has to be higher in the sky? Think of a see-saw. This is why objects like Antares are higher in the sky the further south you go. Planets follow the ecliptic plane which is basically in the south for us (E-S-W) so would appear higher in the night sky the further south you go. Try it in Stellarium by changing the location from UK to Canary Islands and see the difference in objects in the north vs. the south. Look at the Az/Alt coordinates (specifically Alt), it will give you an indication of how high the object appears in the sky. You can turn on the ecliptic plane by pressing ',' (comma).
  6. I have imaged quite a few times from Fuerteventura at sea level and always facing out to sea to avoid LP. Polaris is, as mentioned, about 28 degrees in the sky which is still quite high and is visible but can be in quite a bit of murk depending on the local LP. And as you mention, and what can throw you is that Ursa Major can be well below the horizon depending on the time of year/night so if you rely on that to find Polaris you can struggle, but it is the brightest star opposite Cassiopeia and some other constellation will be recognisable so it isn't too taxing. Regarding Jupiter being higher up...well that is because it was probably in the south at the time and hence it will be higher in the night sky than objects that are in the north.....
  7. I agree, most have VGA mode (640x480) but not at a 1:1 crop mode which is what is required for planetary. The entire frame is shrunk down to 640x480 rather than the centre being cropped to a 1:1 (100%) resolution. Here's a list of (most) of the Canon cameras that support different crop modes...
  8. I once met a wildlife photographer who said..."It is better to take one nice image than 50 okay images" with that I'd try to collect as much data as feasible on the Leo Triplet and "complete" it before moving on to the next target.
  9. Thanks Paddy.... Noooooo....Don't even joke about tempting me into attempting a mosaic....Not even 2 panels Thanks Sara. It is difficult to show the IFN on a dynamic range limited monitor but I do prefer it to be subtle...After all it is barely there in reality.
  10. Hi Carole, for the widths I used the standard recommendation....Can't remember where the original link is but it was fairly easy to find at the time. If I can find the link again I will post it...It was under a thread here on SGL, something along the lines of Lord Y Mask.
  11. Nope, I've got the 650D and it doesn't have the movie crop mode, that functionality is restricted to the 60D, 60Da and the 550D unfortunately. Hence I use EOS Movie Record or BYEOS.
  12. Think I am finished with this one for now. I might try processing it again from scratch as I need the practice. Looking at the subs, there is a mixture of the good, the bad and the ugly. I might have to do another cull of the bad ones and see what the end result it, however I was after the fuzzy stuff rather than pinpoint stars so removing "bad" subs may cause more harm than good. As I may have mentioned previously, I am not a huge fan of making the IFN brighter than or as bright as the actual galaxies. Baader modified Canon 6D @ ISO400. Canon 500mm f/4 L IS @ f/4. Avalon Instruments M-Zero. PHD2 for guiding using QHY5L-II-M and QHYCCD miniGuideScope. APT for image acquisition, plate solving and dithering and GOTO++. 2016-04-10 14x5 minute subs 2016-05-01 38x5 minute subs 2016-11-06 20x5 minute subs 2017-03-25 61x5 minute subs A total of ~120 x 5 minute subs totalling ~10 hours taken just outside Horncastle. Thanks for looking...
  13. Agree with you Olly and Jessun is right that a mount that is used correctly (balanced properly and within payload limits) must have a pretty easy life to be honest.
  14. Jesper, I am not familiar with the drive mechanism of the mount you are referring to (GTO1600) but surely there are other parts of the system that rotate at more than 1 revolution per day...Unless this is a direct drive mount running at 1 RPD... Also slewing can be quite strenuous especially with a large moment. Though I am not really technical or qualified to answer to be honest...
  15. I still haven't been there but intend on going when the weather turns out good and I am not at my regular dark site (usually due to bad weather reporting). Really like to look through the big Dob, only looked through a 16" before on a not so clear night.