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StuartJPP last won the day on December 18 2017

StuartJPP had the most liked content!

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About StuartJPP

  • Rank
    Brown Dwarf

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Birding and now a bit of astrophotography.
  • Location
    Leeds, UK
  1. StuartJPP

    Dew heaters

    I have generally always used self-adhesive loop from Velcro/Hook and Loop fame in a back-to-back fashion to make my larger dew heaters. Takes a bit of careful placement when sticking the two parts together as it is usually very sticky. The reason I use the loop is that it is more flexible than the hook part plus it doesn't hook on to anything it comes in contact with. It isn't ideal because there isn't a "reflector" to reflect the heat back in to the lens but I find it good enough. I then use a small piece of hook to attach the heater when it is wrapped around the front element when needed.
  2. StuartJPP

    Dew heaters

    How handy are you with a soldering iron? You can either buy some or make them yourself. There are a few sites available with instructions on making your own. The one below is made with a string of resistors in parallel but my larger one for the 500mm f/4 L IS uses nichrome wire. The controller is a DIY LED PWM controller from eBay that costs about £2. https://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/2013/05/making-your-own-nichrome-dew-heater-bands/ https://nightskyinfocus.com/diyprojects/diy-dew-heater/ etc.
  3. Sean, most of the time I have seen them they start NNW and migrate NNE. They extend about 10 degrees off the horizon, usually less and at this time of year about midnight to 2am, though that is usually when I go to bed and when I am most likely to spot them.... Those are my findings and may not be concrete of course...just that is how I have always seen them from my location. Their appearance does seem random, one night there can be a fairly impressive display and the next night with almost identical conditions there's nothing...of course the conditions a few 10's of miles up may not be that similar... Just keep an eye out and good luck!
  4. A great set of images! Love the plankton...
  5. First time I have seen them this season. It is a bit later in the year than usual so the display isn't/wasn't as good as previous years. Will keep an eye out for them again. Just taken out the bedroom window using a Canon 70-200mm f/4 L IS and Canon 5D Mark III @ 70mm, ISO 800, 2", f/4. Although the camera exaggerates them, to the naked eye the brightness is probably 50% of how it is portrayed in the image, so very easily seen (unlike my experience with the Northern Lights).
  6. StuartJPP

    How hot should a dew strap get?

    A dew heater should be warm enough to just prevent the temperature of the air/glass of the objective from dropping below the dew point. My dew heaters barely feel warm and it can be difficult to tell if they are on or not. 52C is a bit too high! As above, check the resistance of the strap.
  7. StuartJPP

    Someone Joined Me In A Bit Of Observing.

    Thanks for commenting everyone... Regarding the feeding of them, I put down two small bowls each night if I know they are about. Both separated by a bit in case two arrive at the same time where fighting can occur. Once they have finished, they are off and I don't top up. Kind of like the bird feeders, I put a variety of food out for them but once it is gone, then they will have to wait for tomorrow. For the hogs I also have some proper hog food that is like cat food, but that has to go under the bench where the cats can't get at it. They are the dried buscuit type so last a while so water is always provided for them. I am thankful to see them again, last year was a bit of a miss. The problem these days is that most people's gardens are so clinical that there's not much for them...so what do people expect? And cars just keep squishing the few that do manage to survive, it really is sad. Regarding foxes, I think that they avoid people like the plague, regardless though I could be wrong....
  8. Was fortunate to encounter two of these scurrying around the garden again during a quick Mark I eyeball observation session looking for some Noctilucent Clouds. I haven't seen these fellas in the garden for quite a while so a welcome visit back...this particular one was smaller than the other and hid away behind a planter when it saw me then popped its head back out when it finally realised I was no threat. Dried mealworms are back on the menu again with a clean bowl of fresh water (don't give them milk!). I'll let them settle for a while before grabbing them at some point and checking them for ticks. Thanks for looking and lets hope some Noctilucent clouds appear! Garden Hedgehog by Stuart, on Flickr
  9. StuartJPP

    AZ-EQ5GT: does the USB port deliver power?

    Almost certain it is a USB device and not a USB host and hence will not supply power. The connector is a female B type, similar to a printer. But I don't own one so I cannot say for sure.
  10. StuartJPP

    25mm cctv lens

    There were two types of QHY5L-II cameras supplied, ones with 'C' and the others with CS mountings. The 'C' mounts were supplied initially then subsequently they were supplied with CS. The CS mount (thinner) can accommodate both CS and 'C' (with 5mm spacer) mount lenses whereas a 'C' mount can only accommodate a 'C' mount lens. If the 25mm lens is a new, cheap(ish) lens it will most likely be a CS mount or a less likely a C mount, not sure how you can tell them apart to be honest. If your camera has a CS mount and your lens is a CS mount then no adapter is required. If your camera has a CS mount and your lens is a 'C' mount then you need a 5mm spacer. If your camera has a 'C' mount and your lens is a 'C' mount then no adapter is required. If your camera has a 'C' mount and your lens is a CS mount then you are out of luck. Although you can contact Bern at Modern Astronomy for a CS mount for your QHY5-L-II camera (not a spacer!). This site shows the difference between the two QHY5L-II cameras and mount types: https://wix443.wixsite.com/polemaster-emulator Hope this helps.
  11. StuartJPP

    Imaging just keeps getting more complicated!

    My mantra, which echoes some above, is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I try to avoid any updates and label everything. I don't care if the new version of PHD2 has a new fandangled feature that I will never use...or if APT or CdC is flagging that there is a new version available......if it is working, leave it alone. I will selectively update some Windows components for security purposes only (I have Windows 8.1, not 10), but that is it. Additionally during all imaging sessions the netbook is set to "Flight Mode". I do use a USB hub, but it is a good make and so far it hasn't given me any hassles but I do suspect that if I start having problems it will be the root cause.
  12. StuartJPP

    Comparison of IC1396 DLSR ASI1600MM

    As another comparison for balance (and equal scientific value) keep the colour data from the Canon 40D and see how much more colourful it is compared to the ASI
  13. StuartJPP


    I thought that there was still a version available for free that supports PA....
  14. StuartJPP


    Use SharpCap, £10 per year and you can use your existing guide scope and guide camera if you already own them. You can also use an older version of SharpCap that is free to use for polar alignment though I am not sure what new features are added to the paid for version versus the old one in relation to polar alignment.........that is if that version is still available for download. What guide camera do you currently have? Assuming you have one of course. For me, polar alignment with either SharpCap or PoleMaster is certainly a time saver and gives good results, for my image scale at least. But is it worth £300? Only you can decide that, for me the answer is no. There's also this option if you have any of the bits already: https://wix443.wixsite.com/polemaster-emulator
  15. StuartJPP

    Full-Frame DSLR's and Vignetting

    I much prefer my Canon 6D to my Canon 650D and I am sure that you will as well. My imaging lens, the Canon 500mm f/4 L IS, is designed for full frame but there is still of course vignetting but to be honest I just ignore it and throw everything into the pot along with flats and just crop off the bits that I don't want. This is usually the edges caused by dithering. Processing images from the 6D is so much easier and if you get enough subs hardly any noise reduction is necessary, depending on how hard you stretch of course...the same could be said of the 650D, but you'd need a lot more subs to begin with. As a consequence I hardly ever use my 650D any more for imaging and if the next season is poor it will be sold off to some lucky recipient for a steal

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