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EQ8 - The Unboxing


Gina

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I have now lifted the mount onto the pier.  Didn't use the hoist as the balance was wrong - didn't want to risk damaging the encoders, so I just lifted it out of and onto the top of the box with the handles and then onto the pier adapter.  Those handles made all the difference to lifting the mount making it actually easier than the NEQ6 even though it's a bit heavier.  On the box it was already over half way from floor to pier head.

Here are some photos of the mount on the pier - firstly as packed then with PA altitude adjustment.

post-13131-0-64055000-1382628922_thumb.j  post-13131-0-32315500-1382628928_thumb.j  post-13131-0-43194100-1382628932_thumb.j  post-13131-0-47513200-1382628936_thumb.j  post-13131-0-86268600-1382628940_thumb.j  post-13131-0-63012900-1382628945_thumb.j  post-13131-0-76245800-1382628949_thumb.j  post-13131-0-26661200-1382628953_thumb.j

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Options that occur to me to solve the problem are :-

  1. Raise the mount by putting a spacer plate between it and the top pier plate.  180mm diameter I guess and at least 8mm thick.
  2. Strip it all down again and drill both steel plates so that the bolt is in a different place.
  3. Replace the offending bolt with a countersunk version so that the top is lavel with the plate - if I can find such a thing.
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I have a problem though :(  One of the PA AZ knobs catches on an adapter bolt head.  As it is, this prevents PA adjustment :(

 Firstly, congrats on getting it in place. Secondly, that sucks about the knob cathing the plate. Thirdly, this is a relatively easy fix. You can either file down the plate or file down the knob. I would file down the plate. Much easier and no risk on any damage to the mount. Plus if you re paint the pier black no one will know :)

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Oh wait. Was looking at the wrong "knob". My bad. So I would then either counter sink the screw or have a new plate made that acts like a spacers. OR you could grind down the screw head if it doesnt require too much grinding and if you think it wont compromise it in anyway.

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 Firstly, congrats on getting it in place. Secondly, that sucks about the knob cathing the plate. Thirdly, this is a relatively easy fix. You can either file down the plate or file down the knob. I would file down the plate. Much easier and no risk on any damage to the mount. Plus if you re paint the pier black no one will know :)

Oh wait. Was looking at the wrong "knob". My bad. So I would then either counter sink the screw or have a new plate made that acts like a spacers. OR you could grind down the screw head if it doesnt require too much grinding and if you think it wont compromise it in anyway.

Thank you :)  I guess the spacer plate would be the easiest - if I can find something suitable.  Come to think of it, it doesn't need to be a disc - it could be square as long as it was at least 180mm on each side.

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Well done with the mount Gina, looks first class, the PA bolt, why not replace the EQ8 bolt (piece of studding would do) get it aligned and bolted down, then see if when its were it has to be if the original bolt will go back in....if it doesn't would that really matter. :)

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Wowee! I think this is going to be a start of a new era for you Gina! like 10 minute unguided subs :)

As for the AZ adjustment bolt issue, I vote to swap the adaptor bolt with a low profile on and maybe also lose the washer. you could grind the original down but this risks the mount unless you take it down again. Adding a plate the same diameter as the base of the mount to lift the whole thing above the bolt is also a good idea but perhaps a bit more work, might be worth it though.

Chris

p.s. Amazing!

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I've done some measuring up.  If I do away with the washer under the bolt head the interference is about 4mm so I think I could get away with 4mm plate.  OTOH it doesn't need 4 big bolts to hold it on, I could replace that one bolt with a smaller one but still leaving the pile of washers to take the weight.

Made another discovery though - the mount is pointing the wrong way - 180 degrees out  :eek:   So I'll have to take the mount and top plate off again and drill and tap the hole for the AZ post in a different place.  I had assumed that the EQ8 would be like the NEQ6 in that expect.

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Well done with the mount Gina, looks first class, the PA bolt, why not replace the EQ8 bolt (piece of studding would do) get it aligned and bolted down, then see if when its were it has to be if the original bolt will go back in....if it doesn't would that really matter. :)

Wowee! I think this is going to be a start of a new era for you Gina! like 10 minute unguided subs :)

As for the AZ adjustment bolt issue, I vote to swap the adaptor bolt with a low profile on and maybe also lose the washer. you could grind the original down but this risks the mount unless you take it down again. Adding a plate the same diameter as the base of the mount to lift the whole thing above the bolt is also a good idea but perhaps a bit more work, might be worth it though.

Chris

p.s. Amazing!

Thank you both :)

Been giving this some more thought as well as taking on board your suggestions.  Firstly I thought of a smaller bolt or even coach bolt that would clear the AZ adjustment knob but another possibility would be just to take the bolt out, do the PA then after screwing down the mount to hold AZ PA, remove the PA adjuster bolt and replace the pier adapter bolt.  Or yes, I could replace the mount adjuster bolt with a longer one that clears the pier adapter bolt.

The PA AZ adjustment is very much easier on this mount than the NEQ6 :)  I realise that I have no load on but PA could be done with just the relatively light-weight ED80 - it doesn't need the heavier MN190.

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Thank you :)  Yes I could use those though they're somewhat smaller than the current bolts.  One of the things I was thinking of.

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Options that occur to me to solve the problem are :-

  • Raise the mount by putting a spacer plate between it and the top pier plate.  180mm diameter I guess and at least 8mm thick.
  • Strip it all down again and drill both steel plates so that the bolt is in a different place.
  • Replace the offending bolt with a countersunk version so that the top is lavel with the plate - if I can find such a thing.

Why does it need to portrude at all? Weld it and cut/grind the top perfectly flat.

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Why does it need to portrude at all? Weld it and cut/grind the top perfectly flat.

I'm not up to welding and I don't know anyone who would do it.  Used to be a chap up the road but he emigrated to New Zealand and nobody took over :(

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Gina. From the photo it looks as though the AZ adjustng knob is grubscrewed on to the M8 rod, could you not remove the knob and refit it to a longer piece of M8 rod?  :smiley:

I believe you're right - I'll check - good idea, thank you :)

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Hi Gina,

I'm in Newton Abbot and have a portable MIG welder if you need any doing but be quick ... back out to Singapore in 6 days.

Regards

Mark

Thank you very much for your kind offer :)  But I think I may have a solution without welding :)

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I've taken one of the AZ bolts and taken the knob off - two allen grub screws.  Here's a photo.  As can be seen, to use that knob with threaded rod would require the rod to be turned down at the end.  The threaded part is standard M10 (not M8).  There's no reason why I shouldn't get some M10 threaded rod and put a different knob on the end though.

post-13131-0-14576000-1382691984_thumb.j

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Do you have a grinding wheel Gina, if so you could grind the thread off the end of some M10. You could probably get away with filing it but it would just take longer.

You could keep the same knob then, also you could grind a flat on the bar for the grub screws so it holds better.

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Alternative idea - Allen head SS screws and use Allen key to adjust PA - the extra length of the Allen key would give finer control.  So I've ordered a couple of M10 x 110mm (same as overall length of bolt and knob supplied.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-M10-A2-STAINLESS-ALLEN-BOLT-SOCKET-CAP-SCREW-HEX-HEAD-ALLEN-KEY-DIN-912-/221254663044?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=520156053173&hash=item3383ce3b84

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