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Everything posted by dmahon

  1. Anyone seen these available in the UK yet? http://astrosolar.com/en/information/news-en/baader-solar-filter/
  2. Why do you want such a structure - what is it for, what will it achieve?
  3. Argh, typo - fat fingers on iPad. I hope you spotted it. (not 268). The computer and the APC need to be on the same network. If the subnet is set to (usual for this type of setup), the first three numbers need to be the same on both computer and APC, but the fourth number needs to be different. You then put into the address bar at the top of IE/Chrome/Safari to get the Apc login screen.
  4. You could just (temporarily) tell a computer to use IP address subnet and use that computer to log onto the Apc to change its settings. No new cables needed.
  5. If you still can't get the Apc working, I'd be happy to give it a go if you send it here.
  6. The garage is 8 feet high - how far away from the garage will the pier be situated? I find that there's little point imaging below 20 degrees above the horizon. You can use that to work out how high your scope needs to be mounted, then using the height of your mount, how high your pier needs to be. Quite probably much shorter than 8 feet.
  7. Well, in the end I set at LOW and 60% humidity and ran it all year as advised by the company that sells them (and gives the discount) - and all was working fine until a few weeks ago. I've asked them for any advice but I suspect they will be having a well earned break, so I thought I would also ask on here. Recently the dehumidifier has stopped and the "water full" light has indicated. Looking at it, the water tank has indeed been full and I have had to empty it. This is a surprise as I have a hole drilled through my observatory wall and the supplied pipe attached to the nozzle. The pipe has a decent fall*, has been working all year and there has been no freezing weather down here - not even a frost! Most of the time it has been above 7 degrees, so my winter tyres have been entirely wasted. I had no similar problems last year in January/February when the weather was much colder. There are no kinks to the pipe and no obstructions. The machine is just under a year old. Is this a fault or am I missing some simple instruction that will make it work correctly? * and I have increased it further by standing the dehumidifier on a plank of wood.
  8. I get great results with Elbrus, but I agree the settings are paramount. Works 9 times out of 10, and when it fails over to astrometry.net, that takes care of the 1 in 10. Focussing, once I set it to take 8 second exposures, works fine too.
  9. Good on FLO sorting it so quickly for you. My question: Why buy the GT81 when you have an Esprit 80? Aren't you happy with the Esprit? I ask as someone who was considering one (and the GT81).
  10. Connect up your neq6 to a computer and use it to assist your polar alignment using something like AstroTortilla that doesn't need you to use specific stars.
  11. I use mastercrete at whatever mix it says on the bag. About 1:4 cement:all-in-ballast I think. I'm sure you could get away with less cement, but it's less than a fiver a bag and you only do it once.
  12. If you get 0-0-0-0 it hasn't got an IP address. To log on to it with website, first you need an IP address. Then just put that address in a web browser. Username and password are both apc. Out of the factory, it is set up to take an address from a dhcp or bootp server. (I'd disable the requirement of vendor specific cookie at the first opportunity) http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=ap7921&tab=documentation See manual, page 10 Best bet is use the wizard, page 9, download here; http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=ap7921&tab=software Otherwise, use the telnet options (ping seems easiest way). As long as the password is the default. Otherwise, you will need the special serial cable (on ebay)
  13. Power switch doesn't need a driver - it's driven from a web interface. Default username and password is apc. Manual is online. Press and hold button to find it's IP address. Hopefully set up already with a static address or DHCP without the magic cookie. Otherwise you need a cable.
  14. Glad you're up and running. Beware the ACP power switch has an unusual way of using DHCP if you set that option. What's the second solar panel for?
  15. Looks like you've closed off the top at the back - where does the rainwater drain out?
  16. You should be able to work it out from these: http://www.pulsarobservatories.com/downloads/2.2%20FH.pdf http://www.pulsarobservatories.com/downloads/2.2.pdf Looks like 1390mm If it's more than 2m from the boundary, I think you're allowed up to 3m. But those might be the old design - the new one could be slightly different. Send Gary at Pulsar an email and ask. As for planning - if no-one objects within 4 years, you're OK anyway. Are they likely to?
  17. Yes, it does. The dome design has changed though - the dome I have allows the motor to be fixed to the wall and AC driven wheels drive on the dome. The old design I believe has a battery powered motor fixed to the dome and the wheels drive on the wall. You'd have to speak to Pulsar to see if it works with the old drive system. Don't see why not, but you'd have to have some kind of flying lead to the computer or wireless RS232 adapter. I also now have the wireless shutter control.
  18. I think the perspective is a bit out on the Enterprise's port engine. Or it got blasted by a Klingon.
  19. Well, I got the impression it was free anyway - although I'd be happy to pay a small amount (and will certainly offer to pay the postage, which is not inconsiderable). You can see my settings above. Similar settings (different units) are also in the scopedome program itself (click setup on the same program that you click slave to scope).
  20. Do you have a GEM or an alt-az mounted scope? If alt-az not on a wedge, just use offsets of 0. My home position is at 290 degrees. If I have my scope pointing at Polaris and my scope at "home", hitting sync makes the dome move to 0 degrees. In fact, to work out where the home position was, I made a guess of 270, homed the dome, hit sync and then corrected my guess and repeated until hitting sync made the middle of the shutter sit right in front of the scope. It then tracked fine. Hitting sync should have the same effect as moving the dome to 0 degrees. If your home position is accurate and it's still sitting 60 degrees out, I suspect one of your measurements is off. Is it telling it to move to 0 degrees but actually going elsewhere, or is it telling it to move to 60 degrees out? Oh, and check (with a torch) the little grey counting wheel isn't slipping - that will make it off as well. It has to be set up twice - once in the scopedome program itself and once in the ASCOM driver setup for the Shelyak unit. Both need the offsets, dome size, home position, etc. and of course, you need to tell maxim (or whatever) to use the scopedome program rather than use the mount/dome directly.
  21. Yes, I heard. I had a few problems with the IR sensors too, though I could usually get them to work on the second attempt if not the first. What helped was reducing the size of the metal "home" position foil. The other thing I noticed was that the shutter opened itself on occasion - especially when taking photographs with flash for these threads. Anyway, Gary called me a month or two ago and told me about their plans - and offered me a free wireless upgrade, I think for helping talk someone else through their installation. I've been away so only got round to sending the units back to him this morning (I live a few hundred miles away, so mine is coming in the post rather than a personal installation). Glad to hear that it's much better. The other suggestion I had for him was some kind of spring mechanism on the little grey "counting" wheel to ensure it keeps good contact. See http://www.pulsarobservatories.com/ (but about £6,000)
  22. I was wondering about the longevity of the dehumidifier when turned on permanently. I can set it on a timer, but the type of dehumidifier keeps going for a few minutes when switched off (to cool down) and loss of power wouldn't allow that. Just wondering if it would do more harm to leave it on 24/7 or to turn it on remotely for an hour each morning.
  23. Fly over Asign_baz and get him to design ASIGN Observatory III for you just a little bigger than the last one. http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/155833-asign-observatory-ii-is-back-on-track/
  24. 3 yards and obsy power only? I'd use a 13A fused spur from the outdoor socket and then bury some 2.5mm 3 core SWA. Incorporate an RCD if you don't already have one on the circuit. Use a 5A fused spur off that in the observatory for lighting. http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13a-switched-weatherproof-rcd-fcu/20523 If you want something more substantial (to run power tools, etc., as well as the observatory) run a sub main from your main fusebox to a garage consumer unit in the obsy. You'll need to calculate the size of the cable by the ampage you want to use at the other end. You'll also have to consider earthing requirements.
  25. I installed a dehumidifier (ELA DD822)* in my observatory at the new year. It has been turned on permanently ever since - although there will be dew in the Summer, I guess it will disappear quickly as the air warms up - should I turn it off to sdave electricity and, perhaps, extend the life of the machine? Do you all keep yours running year round, non-stop (except when the roof is open)? It's costing me about £20 a month, which although noticeable on the usage graphs that the utility company supplies, when compared to last year, is a drop in the ocean compared to the cost of the kit it's protecting. * anyone who wants one, see this discount code first.
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