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Camera Upgrade


Ganymede12

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After failing to capture Jupiter in my FujiFilm Finepix Z5 I was told that cutting down the shutter speed would help. Sadly, I can't change the shutter speed of the FujiFilm so I am now considering getting This camera.

Would my PH047 Ultra Afocal Digital Camera Support work with this or would I need a T-Adaptor?

The telescope I am using is a Skyliner 200p Dobsonian which, according to FLO, has a direct SLR connection.

Edit: Once I get a tracking mount will I be able to use long exposures to get pictures of DSO's?

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Not sure how you would mount it TBH. It would depend on whether it has a T-adapter thread on the lens housing. it doesn't look like the lens is removable so focussing might be tricky. Also the spec says it only does 15sec exposures, so that might rule out long exposures unless it has a bulb mode.

Only going on what I can see in the blurb.

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Have you tried using the sport mode with a low ISO setting on the Z5 for capturing Jupiter.

p.s. I would agree with others that a DSLR is the better route than a bridge camera, maybe a second hand Canon eos 350d )body only for about £115 on ebay), or as suggested saving towards an 1100d

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Your really going to need a EQ mount in the long term, the Camera connection is for a DSLR the camera of choice being a Cannon and the 1100D ticks all the boxes, the one you list will be a complete waste of your money. A web cam can be brought for less than a fiver and once processed will give much better images than a DSLR.....this for less than a Fiver.....

moon01_04_201220_47_20-1.jpg

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If you want to do planetary imaging on the cheap then an SPC900 is really the way go to. There's an LX-modded one in the classifies at the moment though I don't know how much he wants for it. There were a few on AB&S last time I looked, too. You'd need some sort of laptop to run it from though.

If you're after a DSLR then Gina posted an ebay link the other day where they were selling the US version for £200 delivered, body-only. The page is still there but the price is stupidly high at the moment so I'm guessing they're waiting for more stock to be delivered. Could be worth keeping an eye on though.

If you have the DSLR and, say, scope rings and an EQ5 with motors to put the OTA on then you should be able to do long exposures up to a point, but after that you'll need guiding and you're into a whole new ball-game there. If you had the kit lens to go with the 1100D (not that expensive I don't think) you can use that for a certain amount of wide field imaging too.

James

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I'm trying to take imaging one step at a time.

If I go for a webcam then will need a mount to do astrophotography with it.

Would a DSLR be able to take single shots with a lower shutter speed so I could do some simple (point and shoot) planetary and lunar imaging before I get a mount for long exposures?

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If you use a webcam (and PC) then it is possible to do some planetary imaging without a tracking mount. It will be tricky, but I've seen it done on SGL before. You may want to do a bit of research there to decide if you can handle the frustration of getting it wrong :) On the plus side, if you have a view of the right bit of sky from home then you don't absolutely need a dark site to do it from so you can spent a lot longer practising. An LX-modded SPC900 can also be used for DSO imaging up to a point (with an equatorial mount).

For lunar imaging, I reckon you could probably take quite a few shots with a DSLR to stack, perhaps in combination with a barlow. You shouldn't need a long exposure. I'm not sure about the image scale with a 200P though as I've never tried it. Perhaps someone who has can contribute. If you don't have a laptop you may need a remote to take multiple shots in quick succession, but they're only about £15. The webcam would also work for this, but you'd be imaging parts of the moon rather than the entire thing.

Planetary imaging I'm really not sure about with a DSLR. I think there are some examples in the imaging section, so hunting those down might be worthwhile.

Another thing to bear in mind is that once you start getting into motorised mounts (and perhaps even using a laptop or other computer) you have to think about power sources.

James

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I would take things slowly Ant.Kevs advice is spot on dont go rushing into buying things that will be a waste of money in the long run.You need to think about what you want to image firstly if its just the moon and planets your better off buying a eq platform for your dob,you can then buy a webcam.Ive seen some excellent images of the moon and Jupiter taken using this method plus a platform will totally transform your visual observing experience.

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Quatermass did some fine imaging using the EQ5, 200P and a DSLR. It's not a doddle though. Worth having a read through some of his threads about it before making a decision.

It may well be worth talking over the practicalities of DSO imaging with some of those who have to take their kit to a dark site, or to work out if it's possible from home. My recollection is that you're reliant upon someone taking you to a dark site. You could easily burn through quite a few hours at a time without much else to do if you're DSO imaging. Other people might not find that an interesting way to spend lots of their time :)

James

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I'm trying to take imaging one step at a time.

If I go for a webcam then will need a mount to do astrophotography with it.

Would a DSLR be able to take single shots with a lower shutter speed so I could do some simple (point and shoot) planetary and lunar imaging before I get a mount for long exposures?

What sort of images do you have in mind? You can do widefield shots of the planets (e.g. including nearby star clusters or a local tree or church) using a DSLR and tripod. Using the same setup you can do widefield photography of the milky way, comets and so on. The advantage the DSLR has over the bridge camera for this kind of shot is that it has better noise control. To capture detail on the moon you need a focal length of over 400mm, so there you start needing a telescope and mount. I have shot the moon with my 250mm zoom and you can see the main details but the image is small and soft.

I can see you are on a budget - be aware that DSLRs are money eaters - you always need one more lens, and good lenses do not come cheap!

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Having trouble on the equatorial platform front. It seems like the way to go because it will take up less space than an EQ5 mount.

Mat, the link you gave me in the PM only deals in Euros so I can't buy from there!

Anyone know any websites where I can get an equatorial platform?

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I'm trying to take imaging one step at a time.

If I go for a webcam then will need a mount to do astrophotography with it.

Would a DSLR be able to take single shots with a lower shutter speed so I could do some simple (point and shoot) planetary and lunar imaging before I get a mount for long exposures?

The trouble with doing it this way Ant is the expense of it. Paying £99 for a camera that still is not any good for what you want is £99 wasted, Then there is the cost of the next one to get over the shortcoming of the £99 model ....... and so it goes on and before you know where you are you will have spent £500-£600 on 'iffy' cameras when saving up another £100 will give you exactly what you need. Save your money and wait.

If you are desperate then there are quite a few Canon 300d 8.6MP cameras on Astro B&S for about £100 and that will be £100 well spent on a camera that uis well usable.

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£239.99 for an 1100D on FleaBay now that's a bargain, i agree do not throw good money away by rushing, some homework on your next purchase is well worth the wait, save a bit more & you will not regret it :-)

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How does webcam imaging work? Do you need any software? How do you change the magnification?

Well, it's like, err, imaging, but with a webcam :)

Take the lens off the webcam, substitute a nosepiece to fit the focuser, stick it in the scope, plug it into the lapdog, fire up sharpcap and Robert's your mother's brother.

Software required can be some or more of SharpCap, PIPP, Registax, AutoStakkert!2 and others.

You don't change the magnification as that's a visual thing, but you can change the size of the image on the sensor using barlows and extensions.

James

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Sharpcap is a video capture program. A nosepiece is an adaptor that screws into the threads usually found on webcam lens mounts to convert it to fit into a 1.25" eyepiece holder. This is an example that fits the Toucam:

http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/125-low-profile-nosepiece-to-webcam-lens-thread-toucam-840k.html

James

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