Gina Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I would leave it. Just see what the images come out like. It would be dreadful if you went that little bit too far and ruined it. So easy to do - believe me, I've been there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 My observations on Nikon D3100 and D5100 sensors.These two sensors are clearly different from each other. D3100 felt like walk in a park with flat sensor/cover glass surface. Glue wasn’t too strong and glass felt thicker and even flexible. In other words it came off rather nicely.D5100 however is a completely different case. Thinner? cover glass was is not glued on flat surface but it’s instead embedded in groove 1/3 deep of the glass height – so it’s very hard to get under the glass. Also the gap between sensor groove and cover glass was partly filled with resin. Only one corner is left open and if you mess it up, then rest of the process is much harder. Also the resin seems to be much stronger and heat resisting than in D3100. Gold wires, they are rather short in D3100 and only located on two sides, but the D5100 has long wires covering all four sides of the sensor. Combined with shattering glass the higher gold wire damage risk makes D5100 sensor not so desirable debayering sample. Persons with certain personality characteristics may enjoy it though I’d guess that as D5100 sensor is made by Sony, they have different manufacturing process than Canon or Nikon. [i recall reading that D3100 is Nikon made and D5100 Sony. Please correct me if I’m wrong.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Forgot the picture: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sternfreund Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Hey,my first attempt was a 450D. i debayered the sensor successfully without damaging the golden wires. BUT, i had one deep scratch. short exposures (for daytime) were ok but longer exposures were totally terrible...the second 450D is waiting for debayering now. but before i give it a go can you please post some photos of the tools which you used for debayering? plus the used material of the tool. thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDW Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Hi, i debayered several camera's, i use the following methode: i use wooten tooth pick's, at first it seems like nFor the areaothing happens but scanning over the sensor there seems to be spots that "suddenly" let go of the silicon lenses and colorfilter array. But 1 thing is for shure, be very carefull of the small side blue area, donnot touch it. i ruined sevral sensors by accidently going in this area (dead pixel lines etc).for the area's that are difficult in removing the color filter array i use the solvent Dichloormethane. it will immediatly remove the filters (after the silicon layer is gone). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 This is a first test of in process Nikon D5100 sensor.I haven't processed the edges yet and it seems that although micro lenses are off, the color filter still remains. RAW green channel is clearly more dominant than red or blue.Here is also the raw file:http://kuulapaa.com/Tahtidata/debayer.NEFDo you agree? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Images above are Pixinsight raw data extracts with settings:http://kuulapaa.com/Tahtidata/debayersettings.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Yes indeed, the CFA is still there. There's twice as many green pixels as red or blue so photos are green dominant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D4N Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Won't it look like that anyway if you are telling PI to create an RGB image?I would have thought you would need to image something distinctly red, green or blue and check all the pixels expose. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Won't it look like that anyway if you are telling PI to create an RGB image?I would have thought you would need to image something distinctly red, green or blue and check all the pixels expose.I believe color is just something how software interprets sensor data. Well, obviously it is, but you know I mean debayered vs non-debayered image Same file opened in Photoshop gives that distinctly red image, but the presence of RGB filter can be only seen indirectly by color channel distribution:Pixinsight means by RGB image that non-debayered image format has color pixels, if such is existing (?).To verify this: Same picture presented as monochrome shows checkerboard pattern so RGB filter is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Won't it look like that anyway if you are telling PI to create an RGB image?I would have thought you would need to image something distinctly red, green or blue and check all the pixels expose.I wasn't very clear in my previous post. You're right, only monochrome is right way to look image.I blame a bit late evening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 When I was checking for removal of the CFA I chose a multi coloured scene and then closely examined the image (grey scale) at pixel level to check for any differences in pixels covering the same colour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thalestris24 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Apologies for interjecting but how do you process raw files from a debayered camera? Any commercial software will assume the color matrix is still present and process pixels accordingly. Is there some software that allows you to tell it that it's now monochrome?ThanksLouise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Apologies for interjecting but how do you process raw files from a debayered camera? Any commercial software will assume the color matrix is still present and process pixels accordingly. Is there some software that allows you to tell it that it's now monochrome?ThanksLouiseI've looked back through my threads and found the answer - DCRaw is the software I used. How to set it up and use it plus my results are given in my Debayering an 1100D thread. Code to make it automatic using the Windows SendTo feature is described in post #8.HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thalestris24 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I've looked back through my threads and found the answer - DCRaw is the software I used. How to set it up and use it plus my results are given in my Debayering an 1100D thread. Code to make it automatic using the Windows SendTo feature is described in post #8.HTH Hi GinaExcellent - thanks! I'll give it a go if I ever get my mono 1100d back from repair... They've had it since the end of July, lolLouise 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philj Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Only just found this thread and find it fascinating, thanks for sharing chaps.There is a camera available for pure mono from Leica, the M monochrom. Makes me wonder if this is debayered the write up suggests it may be. However at the price its going for I dont plan on finding out anytime soon http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/860536-REG/Leica_10760_M_Monochrom_Black_and.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Much cheaper to buy proper astro CCD cameras Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Crikey! yes you could get a decent mount, scope, and a CCD for that and still have money spare for Jaffa cakes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sternfreund Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 currently: ich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sternfreund Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 i did some more debayeringbut After reassembly:has anyone an explanation? didnt touch the blue rectangel on the side and also didnt touch the Gold wires. dont think that i have gone too deep..there is maybe some Remnant (dust) on the gold wires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zakalwe Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Much cheaper to buy proper astro CCD cameras Judging by the number of trashed DSLR sensors on this thread, I'd say the same about de-Bayering! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sternfreund Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 i will open it again and check for dust which touches the gold wires… maybe this is the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 i will open it again and check for dust which touches the gold wires… maybe this is the problem...Oh dear I sympathise.I have had these very same symptoms on one of my debayering attempts. No consolation I know but you are not alone. I think it may have been due to going too deep or too near the edge in one place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Judging by the number of trashed DSLR sensors on this thread, I'd say the same about de-Bayering! Well... yes... I've been doing it as an experiment and purely for the fun (or maybe I'm a masochist ) I may well have spent more than the cost of a half decent mono astro CCD camera but it can be addictive - like, "I won't make that mistake next time" It's a steep learning curve. Some sensor models are more difficult than others. The 1100D should yield the best results as an astro camera but so far I've found it's the hardest to work on without destroying it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herra Kuulapaa Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Based on my experience I'd say those sensor sides are strictly off limits. Lots of delicate wiring packed in very small space and probably built not to be scratch proof.One mistake there and you'll end up making modern art of your astro images. Really fascinating though... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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