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About pixueto

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  1. First attempt at Mars with the C9.25 and a Powermate 2.5. I think I can process it further but some artifacts are preventing me from that.
  2. I think the best advice is to show the type of images that can regularly be achieved with a DSLR and a dedicated astronomical camera so those who are new to the hobby can decide if they want to pay for the extra expense of the latter option. This is what I've done with different modified DSLR cameras over the years: canon 1000D, 450D, 600D, 100D. Nothing special, really -in fact, some can be greatly improved by a more experience hand (vignetting, noise, etc) but it gives an idea of the kind of stuff one can achieve with £200-£300 invested in a DSLR as opposed to ££££s put into a dedicated ast
  3. Hi all, Just a few pictures I managed to get of the Aurora in Iceland last week.
  4. The camera was definitely modded. I think it was taken with a canon 100D, maybe 3 years ago.
  5. Looking into some old memory cards, I found this North America and Pelican nebulae that I took with a 200mm lens but I never managed to upload before. I'm thinking that perhaps the image lacks a bit of colour? Thank you for your comments.
  6. Anybody there who can help me with this? I am trying to do long exposure captures with a planetary DFK 21AU618.As colour imaging source camera. I need this for astronomical spectroscopy. I can't find any option to achieve this in the IC capture that came with the camera. Has anyone done this before or has any idea how this can be done? Any other software that lets you do this? Thank you for your help.
  7. Indeed, but I cannot see the screws; it's as if the central piece (with the Fastar label) on the center onncorrector plate with 3 sides as a propeller could be turned as a nozzle to expose them but the thing won't move.
  8. Sorry about the dumb question but I just bought the same scope and I'm completely incapable of exposing the collimation screws. How do you do that? It must be very simple, I guess, but I am putting a lot of pressure and nothing happens -I worry about breaking something. There is a ring that can be unscrewed; I would imagine that this is to remove the secondary mirror so I don't want to tamper with it. Any help, please? It's the same, exact model than it's shown here.
  9. Thank you for your comments. No astrophotos yet? Any links to sensor data: QE, noise, etc?
  10. Loads of detail in the dark clouds. Well done! you can get the subs for the core anywhere, even if it's in a light polluted area and then add them to the image. It is a really easy and quick fix. The hard bit was getting all that detail. Well done!
  11. I am thinking about purchasing an Aitk 314L + but since my experience has only been with DSLR astrophotography, I need some advice on the spacing. I understand the spacing needs to be 55mm, but at which points do I measure it? Also, I have a 2" H alpha filter that goes before the flattener. Will this change the spacing required? I want to use the camera with a SW ED80 and the SW 0.8 reducer. Finally, how do I go about attaching the 314L to canon DSLR lenses (I have the canon F2.8 200mm lens that would like to use with the ccd if possible -also with a nifty fifty)? Would I need a f
  12. The 50mm was taken at F4 and it was a 5 minutes sub. The 200mm image wast taken at full aoerture( 2.8) and they were all 2 minutes subs. I can't remember the settings for the 24mm image, to be honest.
  13. These are 3 widefield images of the same area of the Milky Way taken at different focal lengths. The 24mm and 200mm photos are stacked images but the 50mm image is a single 5 minutes sub taken with a nifty fifty at F4.0. they were all taken with a canon 100D on an iOptron Skyguider in a rural location (but with some amount of light polution). I think they give an indication of the scale of the objects that can be seen during a clear night; particularly the image taken with the 50mm as this is roughly the same scale the human eye see things. For some years now, I have been using a SW200P and a
  14. Thank you for your kind comments. You are right Olly, I don't think focus is spot on. I also use a star in that area but with widefield lenses I struggle to tell when the focus is 200% right. I am used to Bhatinov masks where things are much easier. By the way, anyone knows where I can find a good tutorial on using star masks? I always struggle with targets like this. In this image, the Lagoon and Trifid benefitted from a little sharpening and a high pass filter but I wanted to keep the stars controlled.
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