Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

Welcome to Stargazers Lounge

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customise your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

D4N

Advanced Members
  • Content count

    2,108
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

800 Excellent

2 Followers

About D4N

  • Rank
    Brown Dwarf
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

588 profile views
  1. I think this is purely to pull out fine Nebulosity without blowing out brights stars or if struggling with light pollution. If the sky is too bright you may only be able to get 5-10 mins R sub but the Ha could be 30 mins easily. I think in some locations collecting L data is totally out of the question so HaRGB would be a substitute for LRGB.
  2. I would suggest using software to help you manage the mosaic as well, nothing worse than spending hours building a huge mosaic only to realise that you missed a bit.
  3. Nice, it looks like you have the 2" adaptor in the focuser so be sure to remove that before you fit the 1.25" adaptor or you won't get focus. Hope you get some clear skies to try it out with.
  4. I guess it depends if it is too much flex to throw the goto accuracy out. The best way to know is to try it. I use mine at ground level with an adjustable observing stool.
  5. The important thing with galaxies is to be somewhere dark, light pollution ruins them. Andromeda is great to view at low magnification, a common mistake is to increase the magnification too much on it so you only see the core.
  6. The spacing has to be exactly right or you will get that sort of thing.
  7. Ah well I removed the mirror from my DSLR anyway so no problems there
  8. The noise on the DSLR will be significantly reduced at that temperature but the battery life will also be reduced as well. My CCD seems to handle low temps fine it is the mount I worry about as mechanical components can easily get stuck in the cold.
  9. One minute isn't bad unguided at 1.5m focal length, I know I've had much longer subs unguided but always at shorter focal lengths. Guiding takes the limit off of it and you can continue to expose until the background gets too bright or highlights over expose. Another option for brightening your image is using a reducer, your scope is f10 which is quite slow for imaging. The apparent reduction in focal length will also allow you to expose for longer before trails appear.
  10. Have you considered guiding? Small PA errors are of less concern when guiding as they help keep the gears meshed anyway.
  11. You mean the finderscope is not aligned with the main scope? This is easiest to do in the day time by pointing the scope at something distant (not the sun) and using the adjustment screws on the finder so that they are both pointing at the same thing. If the main scope is out of collimation that is a bit more complicated to fix.
  12. Glad you have it working now, you should get some great views once you get it pointed skyward. I just double checked my un-boxing pics for my 300P and both fittings were in the same box but not connected together and both had their caps on. As said before this is a common problem so nothing to be worried about, I don't know if they are true but I have heard rumours of people selling on the scope because they couldn't get it to focus which is a real shame as it's a great starter scope if you get it working.
  13. You probably have the 2" adaptor in place. This is basically a small pipe of 2" diameter that is attached to your focuser tube, you don't need to use this when using 1.25" eyepieces. Use only the 1.25" adaptor and an eyepiece then you should be able to achieve focus.
  14. You can also reduce the white point in the same menu, this allows you to dim the screen more than is normally possible. And of course there is night shift which reduces blue light. I'm sure they will copy it into Android eventually Yeh and if you let the device lock the lock screen will be really bright if you are relying on the apps night mode rather than adjusting the settings for the whole device.
  15. That looks nice, I guess the main disadvantage for this is the light from the tablet interfering with your night vision. This will matter less if it is fairly bright where you observe. You could use one eye to observe and the othe to look at the tablet, this will likely be tricky to do though. Another option may be to have the light level turned right down and draw with red on a black background, it can be desaturated afterwards. The Apple Pencil though rediculously expensive is a superb bit of kit, it is both tilt and pressure sensitive and the sampling rate is automatically doubled while you are using it. The lack of friction takes a bit of getting used to mind. Inspire Pro is really nice for emulating how you would draw/paint naturally whilst Pixelmator is good for its layers and processing options. I haven't tried any Astro images yet but this has inspired me to give it a go.