Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[flolic]

So, what exactly we are looking here?

How long is total exposure time under UV lamp?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[ultraviolent]

Sorry, I was in a hurry.

Top picture is the Sensor. It became brighter around the center where the light was most intense.

Underneath: a plain white image with the original sensor (L) and the treated one but now without IR-cut filter ®. (same exposure time, same light)

Bottom: Treated sensor remains to see colors. Small scratches appear white, micro lenses may became brittle and break away.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

But the sensor survived the UV attack and that's good information

[ultraviolent]

Let me conclude this experiment: After the UVC exposure there was no color degradation, but the epoxy resin became brittle and can be wiped away without much force and scratches. But the problem of the sensitive margin remains.

Sensor itself and it#s image

[Fred_76]

For those who use DSS, here is a topic where I explain how to import B&W Raw files to DSS.

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/234030-processing-bw-raw-files-from-a-debayered-dslr/

To be short, one need first to convert the CR2 or NEF RAW files into FITS files using Iris from Christian Buil (freeware). Then use DSS to import these FITS files.

The result is better than importing directly the CR2/NEF files in DSS as DSS only assumes the RAW files to be colour files.

[Sternfreund]

So mabye it's just the heat (not the UV?!) which destroys the surface and which makes it easer to remove the Matrix?

how much heat does a sensor take?

Maybe bake it bevor removing the bayer Matrix?

[Herra Kuulapaa]

So mabye it's just the heat (not the UV?!) which destroys the surface and which makes it easer to remove the Matrix?

how much heat does a sensor take?

Maybe bake it bevor removing the bayer Matrix?

Heat changes the sensor surface, but one can see only minor change in color and reflectivity. There is no however clear difference when removing lenses and filters. I also recommend avoiding sensor surface changing heat at least for Canon. This results err70 - been there, done that.

[Gina]

Me too

[ultraviolent]

Oh, didn’t I wrote that? I measured the temperature with an infrared thermometer, was 60°C. UV duration was about 30h. The sensor was on an aluminum heat sink and it survived. No changes in hot pixel etc.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Maximum operating temperature for most CMOS sensors is around 65-70°C. But that is on-temperature in which junction operation is stable but imaging most likely not anymore feasible. They can however resist and survive off-temperatures "much" higher, like semiconductors usually do. How much higher? I really cannot say and due to the fact that I suspect having heat killed one 550D sensor I'd be cautious.

[Calypsob]

What happens if you don't replace the glass covering the sensor?

[Gina]

You may see an improved image as the reflections are removed from this cause.  I would recommend something else to keep dust out though, such as a good quality coated IR/UV filter which you will want anyway.

[ultraviolent]

Once I built a spectroscope and now i took a picture with the debayered sensor and discovered a very selective filter inside the canon 1000D. It is done with the piezo dust shaker glass, the other two I already removed destructively. This glass appears fully transparent from the front and bluish from an angled view. Looks like a good filter for visual light:

 [full size image] (scale in nm)

[Fred_76]

This filter is the one left when you do a Baader mod. It lets light passing from 400 to 670 nm approximately.

This is the blue filter (the small you broke) that is absorbing light from 640 nm approx.

[frostynixon]

Hello all, i have a question regarding the cover glass removal.

At the moment i try local heating with a soldering ion. However the glue doesn`t turn opaque. In some locations at the edges of the glass i can see that the coverglass is lifting, but the glass itself sits in a frame and i can`t go underneath the glass except at one corner. An at that corner i can`t get the glass to lift. Could it be that the soldering ion doesnt get warm enough? SHould i try to get a pen torch?

Thanks for your help!

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Hello all, i have a question regarding the cover glass removal.

At the moment i try local heating with a soldering ion. However the glue doesn`t turn opaque. In some locations at the edges of the glass i can see that the coverglass is lifting, but the glass itself sits in a frame and i can`t go underneath the glass except at one corner. An at that corner i can`t get the glass to lift. Could it be that the soldering ion doesnt get warm enough? SHould i try to get a pen torch?

Thanks for your help!

Yes, it sounds like there is not enough heat.

I believe pen torch could help, but be careful not to overheat it.

[frostynixon]

Hello again,

with this post i just want to contribute to the mono mod statistics.

I was unable to remove the cover glass from my D5100 sensor with a soldering ion. So i thought more temperature might help to create a bigger heat gradient. I ordered a pen torch and for about 1/3 around the frame the increased heat of the torch seemed to loosen the epoxy resin.

That`s almost the end of the story. In the end i tried for over 3 hours to get the cover glass off. I heated one corner a bit longer (maybe 3s) and the glass cracked...

I knew i wouldn`t get of the glass in one piece anymore so i taped it up and started chimping with a scalpel. Long story short, i broke the glass out with an M1 flat screw and i seemed to have damaged one of the bonding wires (maybe this happened at the epoxy sealing step afterwards... i can`t tell).

I carried on to polish the sensor just to get a feel for it. This procedure seemed more or less to have worked (at least according to comparison with Herras documentary pictures).

I put the camera together again and everything works where the sensor is not involved.

So just for statistic reasons. The current score is:

technology 1 : 0 me.

best regards Matthias

[Gina]

Welcome to the Dead DSLR Devotees group   But sorry you just added to the statistics with your dead sensor

[Chris]

On the plus side, this thread is about to celebrate it's hundredth page!

[frostynixon]

On the plus side, this thread is about to celebrate it's hundredth page!

I`m glad to also contribute to this thread (also not in the way which is preferable ).

[RAC]

Its kind of funny looking back at this thread. It seems I started something and I ended up being one of the largest killers of DSLR's on the planet. Before this thread there was nothing on the net about this subject and now there is heaps.

[Steve789]

Phew, I've finally read through this thread from start to finish.

I managed to get hold of a 1000D for £40 on eBay. It was sold as faulty and comes up with error 01 no matter how much you clean the lens contacts but seeing as I don't even own any lenses that's not really a problem for me. Without a lens attached it works fine. After dismantling I can see the insides are suffering from water ingress/damp as there is small amounts of corrosion on some of the ribbon connections. I'm crossing my fingers that this won't cause a problem when I reassemble the camera. I cleaned the contacts as well as I could as I went.

Anyway the sensor is now out and I've just finished protecting the gold wires with PX804C epoxy from Maplin.

I've experimented with a 300D sensor I killed a while ago and after trying polishing and various different materials for scraping I've decided scraping with a formica/melamine tool (we call it fomica at work but I'm not sure what the correct name for it is) is the method I'm going to use.

I've got to leave the epoxy for 24hrs now so will be testing the sensor on Sunday to see if I've killed it (yet). Wish me luck!

[frostynixon]

Good luck!

[Gina]

Yes indeed, good luck

[frugal]

After dismantling I can see the insides are suffering from water ingress/damp as there is small amounts of corrosion on some of the ribbon connections. I'm crossing my fingers that this won't cause a problem when I reassemble the camera. I cleaned the contacts as well as I could as I went.

This may seem like a daft question, but did you check that the camera worked with your scope before you disassembled it? Otherwise, if it fails when you put it back together you will not know if it was something you did, or if it really was dead to begin with.