Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Luis Campos]

Trust me...I know what you mean

Fred, I work with IRIS by Christin Buil, want to try that?

Cheers,

[Fred_76]

Yes, I was used to work with Iris. Very powerfull for "small size" RAW images like the ones taken by a Canon 1000D. But the size of the 500D is too big and Iris is very very slow.

Iris is compiled in 32 bits and does not take advantage of multicore processors. My computer is a Core i7 with 4x2 cores (with hyperthreading). As Iris can only use one core, it only uses 1/8th of the power of my computer ! And this is very slow...

DSS is multicore-able, and can run all cores. That is why I now prefer to use DSS to Iris.

[Fred_76]

I found a message from Gina that could help :

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/194781-debayering-an-1100d-sensor-removing-colour-filter-array/?p=2041569

(see post #8)

I've put dcraw.exe in the Windows directory and a batch file in C:\Users\user\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\SendTo containing the following code :-

 

 

@echo off:beginif _%1_==__ goto endecho Processing %1...c:\windows\dcraw -D -4 -T %1shiftgoto begin:end

Putting the batch file in the SendTo directory means that DCRaw can be accessed easily using the "SendTo" right-click option on an image file. So right-clicking on the image file name and choosing to SendTo "dcraw" will bring up a command line window where the selected file will be converted to TIFF (called "developed"). After a while the image will be saved as a 16bit TIFF file in the same folder and with the same file name but with the extension changed to TIFF and the command window will close. This makes using DCRaw a simple operation without needing any knowledge of the workings of the command line.         
 

[frostynixon]

Wanted to thank all the contributors for this thread! Given the current prices of used cameras, i will also try my luck. The performance increase is just too tempting . Before i put my fingers on a DSLR i will first try to debayer an old Nikon compact camera.

Clear skies to all!

[jefrs]

This is a long thread which I admit I have not read all through. The OP started out by polishing a layer off with Meguiars ScratchX.

I may have come across something better with Britemax Black Max http://britemax.co.uk/acatalog/Black_Max.html

Obviously it's for car paint but it really is ultra fine and can remove 4000 grit marks. It will polish metals and I have used it for optically polishing lenses (kill or cure).

Despite being ultra fine it is rather fast cutting: use with due care.

[frostynixon]

Hello everyone,

inspired by this great thread i also wanted to have a mono dslr. I`m not yet there but i have taken my first few steps towards that goal. I received a used Nikon D5100 today which i got for a very good price. I took a few test shots to verify the functionality and immediately disassembled it then. After i reassembled the camera there was one part left over however which you can see here:

The camera still works and for today i`m a happy camper. I know that this was the easy part but hey, you can also fail at that

My plan is to flash the Nikon Hacker firmware on the camera and do some astro exposures in order to see what true black level and no star eater algorythm does. After that i will disassemble it again and try my luck at removing the CFA.

greetings and clear skies!

PS:The only thing that bugs me now is that three month ago, i paid 300,- € to have another camera modified although it seems i could have done it myself.

[jefrs]

Possibly worth having a trawl through Flickr's Infrared Photography Group's forum because they regularly perform major open-sensor surgery on cameras. Pretty much the same tech as here.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/infraredphotography/

[frostynixon]

Thanks for the advice. I will have a look!

I´m currently experimenting with two epoxy resins which i will use to cover the bonding wires (like others also did).

[badgerchap]

Can't believe this thread is still going! Good stuff!

[Herra Kuulapaa]

How to know when to have applied too much heat? Well, you know you've gone too far when you see minor change in color of the pixel surface while the cover glass is still on. I have a very "nice" sample in form of the full frame Nikon D600 sensor. Interesting thing is that one can get the glue change its color to white, but it doesn't mean anything about releasing though. D*mn, these are a bit pricey experiments  

Next test is to apply a CNC to it. It's interesting to see how it works.

Meanwhile I imply subtle way that have to sell my current monomod Nikon D5100 to cover some costs..

[frostynixon]

Hey,

i hope that the camera still works and that your CNC approach is successfull! I was wondering: Is there any chance that aceton might work as a solvent for the glue? Not sure if the frame around it is resistant though. I will google a bit

Cheers!

[Herra Kuulapaa]

I have some doubts about the cnc method. It practically would need to vaporize the glass and still make no pressure variances on gold connectors. I'd say the connectors have a snow ball chance (in hell .

It's more like experiment because I'm rather sure sensor is gone already.

[Gina]

Yes, an expensive hobby this, that's for sure   I'm hoping to get back to it myself but out of funds ATM.  If I don't find better things to spend my money on I might be back in business in a month or so.  Next month's pension is pretty much already booked

[Calypsob]

Cant resist anymore had to join in the fun. Herra, if the surface is plastic try using 100% deet bug repellant. It will soften plastic and you can use an abrasive to polish the thin gooey layer off. I would use a cotton swab so it only gets on the sensor.

[Calypsob]

Also this link has some useful solutions for attacking cured epoxy https://www.tedpella.com/technote_html/Reworking_Cured_Epoxy.pdf

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Thanks, very interesting.. I need to try dichloromethane.

Don't know yet how to introduce it under the glass though. Maybe I need to submerse the whole chip in solvent. I wonder how that would end

[Gina]

Well, most things end in disaster but you never know

[ultraviolent]

Hi, I am reading this forum several times from the early beginning on.

I did some scratching on digital cameras but with short pleasure till I disconnected bond wires…

I ever wondered about uv-induced bleaching to maintain the micro lenses and did not find someone saying it worked. I then faced an opened sensor to direct sun during a day in summer without success. I later tried a germicidal lamp without change and gave up, for a while!

Now I had a Canon 1000D’s sensor and this high pressure mercury lamp. I broke the outer glass as only the inner glass is quartz (pure SiO2) which will pass hard uvc. The sensor was now 30h under the 40W lamp and brightens up! I have spotted some dark parts where dust has covered the sensor. So I will give it some more time the bleach even these parts. (The sensor reaches about 60°C during the treatment and is hopefully still alive)

[ultraviolent]

 

[RAC]

It would be neat if that method worked!

[flolic]

Now I had a Canon 1000D’s sensor and this high pressure mercury lamp. I broke the outer glass as only the inner glass is quartz (pure SiO2) which will pass hard uvc. The sensor was now 30h under the 40W lamp and brightens up! I have spotted some dark parts where dust has covered the sensor. So I will give it some more time the bleach even these parts. (The sensor reaches about 60°C during the treatment and is hopefully still alive)

I tried exactly that method over 10 years ago on Philips Toucam webcam. Unfortunately sensor died after short exposure to strong UV light...

I used 125W HPM lamp with broken outer glass (I originally used that lamp for EPROM erasing).

I hope you'll have better luck.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Like flolic, I also wonder how the intensive and long lasting UV exposure affects sensitive photosites. And does it make any difference if sensor is active/inactive during it.

Please post some images of the results.

[flolic]

I think strong UV exposure would be best possible solution to "debayer" sensor. I remember reading in some Sony CCD datasheets that prolonged exposure of sensor to strong UV radiation will fade out color layers.

Question remains of how strong is to strong, and how microlenses will react to UV. I think they are made of some sort of epoxy plastic, but what if they turn opaque?

Also I don't think exposing peripheral circuitry is very "healthy". That circuitry is masked (blue area) but I think UV radiation will penetrate that.

If I find another sensor, I will try to mask all but the small part of the image sensitive area. That way I will have something to compare.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Oh, I missed the UV picture above, mobile phones...

[ultraviolent]

Hi! Sadly it had not worked as expected:

A very soft Q-Tip made the scratches.