Anne S

You don't need the handset but you do need Eqmod as that's the eq6 Ascom driver. Alignment is done using a planetarium programme such as Cartes du Ciel or Stellarium. You then slew to several stars around the sky and sync once centred in the eyepiece. You can have as many sync points as you like which enables you to build a pointing model all over the sky with enough points. I've not tried the wifi method where you can use the Synscan app, maybe someone will chip in with some info. You'll probably need a Wi-fi dongle. I only used my eq6 for imaging. Latterly I didn't bother with alignment points, I platesolved to find my target. Anne

What about contacting trading standards? They're horrendously dangerous.

At least you got the sunspot, I'm not expecting any sun until it's gone around the other side. Nicely done.

Thank you everyone. I hope the skies clear so I can image the new sunspot. It's not looking good though.

We've only had ours a few weeks. This was my third attempt since I replaced my earlier GPCAM which didn't work very well, not sensitive enough and a small field of view and bad Newton's rings. Which telescope are you planning on using. We bought a cheap 80mm f7 achromat as we didn't want to worry about blocking filters.

My first successful solar mosaic taken with a Starwave 80 telescope, Quark Chromosphere and Hypercam 174m. The other images how detail of the interesting areas today. Imaged with a diagonal in the imaging train so image is mirrored vertically and rotated slightly as I'm using an altaz Mount.Probably the last chance for a while!

Thank you. I love this camera, it's so easy to focus etc.

A couple more images captured this morning. First light for my improved solar camera, a Hypercam 174m. A vast improvement on the GPCAM v1 I used a couple days ago. First image is a 2 pane mosaic. I'm using a diagonal before the Quark so it's reversed in both axes. 2nd image is the left hand pane of the mosaic inverted to show the solar inhabitants I've just discovered!

We had a lovely clear morning so I had my second try at imaging with our new Quark. Altair Astro GPCAM, first version, so not very sensitive, an Altair Ascent 80ed F7 with the Quark on a Ioptron IEQ45 altaz. Imaged with Firecapture which I've only just started learning and used the flat field section. Stacked in Autostakkert!3, sharpened in IPPG and finished in PS3. I need to get a tilt adjuster as I had some issues with Newton's Rings.

Have you tried applying stf again? That should adjust it.

His ieq45 isn't a pro and is mounted using the altaz base. It's only noisy when slewing. I originally had a Ieq30 which was not as quiet as its replacement, my current ieq30pro.

Both my Ioptron mounts are very quiet. I've got a CEM60 and IEQ30pro. Just a high pitched whine. However my husband's IEQ45, 2nd version to is noisy. That mount was made around 2013. I suspect all the more recent mounts will be quiet.

I've done the Whale and Hockeystick in the last couple of weeks. Only 2 hours integration as cloud stopped me getting any more. Imaged at 564mm with a SX694.

Have you seen the price quoted for the LS50C compact double stack on the Lunt website? It's showing $849. Even allowing for import duties, I haven't seen it anywhere near the price, yours is the cheapest so far. Unless I'm missing something somewhere.....

It's cheaper to just get Sequence Generator Pro. I've also got a Lakeside focus motor which works fine with it, previously I tried FocusMax 3. You have to slew to a star to do the focus run, which is fine when starting the evening. SGPro can do a quick focus run in between subs in situ as it measures all the stars in the fov. It's 5e first software I've trusted to do it reliably,

I used an 8SE for several years. The best accessory are the vibration dampening pads to put under the legs, particularly on hard surfaces but also on grass if it's soft, gets rid of the vibrations on hard surface and stops the legs sinking into the grass. Also withstands the odd kick without losing alignment!

I find I need to zoom out to see enough on my laptop. Pity laptop screens aren't square!

I've used a Polemaster for several years mostly on my travelling mount. I use a compass to set the mount slightly east of magnetic north in daylight. When I start the alignment with the Polemaster, I don't bother with the handset, just loosen the ra clutches and move a generous 30 degrees each time. I probably move more than I need! I always end up with the stars on the green circle. Have you tried rotating further each time. I would expect it to be more accurate over the longer distance.

When I owned a 8SE I used a 3x Barlow together with a ccd camera capable of recording a video file. Ccd chip was 1/3 inch. Most planets need a focal ration of between f20 to f30. Your scope is f10. If you use a larger chipped camera you wil" need a higher power Barlow. At one point I used a Phillips Toucam. I now have a Inova colour ccd camera for planetary use.

I'm also going, also for an iPolar which I hope will have arrived for my IEQ30 pro travelling mount. Given I've a non-refunded hotel room the only thing that'll keep me away is them cancelling. Keeping my fingers crossed.

It seems a bit expensive. I'm keeping an eye on their rotator, I could do with that when I assemble my dual rig. It'll be a doddle to align the cameras.

I can get the lens caps off but not back on for storage! Nice lens. I've bought a second hand 85mm recently but not tried it yet. I notice you've got a Skytracker too. I need to spend some time with mine.

The longest I've tried is 1370mm and that worked fine. My field of view was 0.52*0.42 degrees. You need sufficient stars. I use Platesolve 2 which is a free download but you need to be reasonably close to where you're supposed to be pointed at. There are also blind solvers, both online and with downloaded catalogues which will tell you where you're pointing without any hints. It's brilliant. I never have to align my scope as long as I'm polar aligned. You need to be connected to the mount so that the solver can send the sync command to it. You then slew to your target and it should be centred. I've also used a bright star close to my target when I'm at a starparty just to get in the ballpark! I don't see why you shouldn't use it for planetary as long as there are enough stars in the fov. Not sure about 5000mm though, I would remove any Barlow from the camera and then replace it once it's slewed to the planet you want. I've only imaged the brighter planets, though I have looked at Uranus and Neptune in my 8 inch SCT days. My husband does video astronomy and uses a flip mirror to help locate the target. Have you tried that?

If you're just viewing, you don't need to be exactly polar aligned. I use a compass and get it slightly east of north. For solar you can't do much else. I agree, the polarscope is in a terrible position and usually not aligned. I tried adjusting one once and just lost one of the little screws. I owned a Celestron CG5 years ago. I found the polar alignment routine excellent. As Skywatcher now own Celestron this feature should be in your handset. You just use a normal eyepiece and the handset tells you what to do. Nowadays I image so I use a Polemaster the iPolar is even better. Both need a computer but it's very quick and you can still use the handset to move the RA axis as required. I takes all of 5 minutes to run the process. Excellent if you move your mount a lot.

I've never really got to grips with Stellarium. Years ago I used to use Cartes de Ciel to slew to objects and do the alignment stars. Now I open the Sky 6 for reference but don't connect the telescope. Platesolving does away with the need to align the telescope. I just slew using a Maxim dl or Sequence Generator pro.