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Anne S

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Everything posted by Anne S

  1. Our booking which was carried forward from last year and the year before is Monday to Monday. It does vary. We usually drive over on the Sunday before, 27th, as it's a 300 mile journey. We would have come earlier if it was clear but I've got a concert on 26 March. We may stay on at the end if there's space and clear nights. We're retired.
  2. Depends when you're coming. We're arriving Sunday 27th. Altair normally arrive on the Thursday. It's easier to ask Ian questions at the shop than when he's at Kelling. We normally cycle down after we've set everything up. It can be expensive seeing al the toys!
  3. And you've transport when you need stuff. We have to cycle which is fine when it's dry. It's too much hassle to get the motorhome off the pitch!
  4. I bought an ASI533 last year for starparties etc. I use ccd cameras at home. I was attracted to the sensitivity, it replaced and Atik 320e colour which needs long exposures. I'm using it with a 60mm F6 scope at 350mm. I've also bought a focal reducer that will reduce the focal length to 288mm. That will get most sensible sized nebulae in. I love the square sensor. i didn't notice any issues with calibrating but, I admit I've only used it on three targets, a couple with an L'Enhance filter. I used Sequence Generator Pro for all capture including calibration frames. I'm using it on unity gain. Image below using L'Enhance filter, about 60x5 minute subs. Calibrated with darks, flats and flat darks. Image taken at 350mm focal length. When I need to replace my SX694 I'll look at the ASI2600 mono. That's a larger chip but double the price.
  5. You can book a caravan which will be brought to the site ready for you and set up. They're a local firm and do quite a few for the starparties.
  6. I used to use AstroArt 4 with a colour camera. One of the menus has a setting to set the debayer pattern by matching the pattern next to it. You can only change a couple of things. You first set the Bayer pattern you think it is, ie rggb which is what my 533 is, then alter the options to make it match. It just puts an offset in both directions to fix how the matrix has been applied, I think. It used to work with my Atik 320e osc. Of course if you've a later version of AstroArt it may have changed slightly.
  7. I'm looking at the Beelink models. The i3 and i5 ones just have "dc" marked by the power socket. The Celeron ones have 12v. I've emailed Beelink to ask but they're on holiday at the moment. I also asked a friend who was running a couple of similar ones quite happily from 12v. He checked with an Intel specialist who said they ran on between 12v-19v. It's just not clear on the website I was using.
  8. We owned an ETX105 about 15 years ago. If you still have the original tripod you can adjust it to make the scope an equatorial one. As to damaging the secondary, the tube will be at the same angle when you slew to an object, regardless of how it's mounted.
  9. What model NUC have you got? I'm trying to decide on one for my travel setup. Some of them just have a dc socket but are sold with a 19v mains adapter. I want to run it from my Pegasus micro powerbox. I was wanting an i3 based one if possible.
  10. Ian at Altairastro said it was when I rang him after New year. Not heard anything since. There is a Facebook page for it.
  11. You mean it didn't start raining till November. We had it from August up here in mid Wales.
  12. I've only played with NINA inside but I have used SGPro and Maxim DL. A couple of things: Is there any reason why you're capturing in Tiff, I suspect that won't support metadata. You should be using fits file type which does. Subs are usually shown in the capture software with a visual stretch applied so you can see what you've got. They will be saved without this stretch. My subs will only show a few bright stars. You then need to stretch the stacks in your processing software. Hope that helps.
  13. The 5 inch scope was sold on the smaller mount which was also sold with the 4 inch scope. The larger mount could also be bought with the 6 inch. I do agree the Evolution is the better setup but it wasn't around when I bought my 8SE. I didn't find the 8SE any problem for viewing as long as I didn't try to use my husband's 13mm Ethos eyepiece on it. Too heavy. It was happier with the 22 mm Nagler which was perfect for most targets.
  14. I had an 8 SE years ago. The mount isn't that bad but don't kick the legs! There is some vibration after focusing the telescope but putting in on vibration suppression pads, that Celestron sell, he'll considerably if you are on a hard surface. On the grass just push the tripod legs in. Also, you need to make sure you've enough clearance to point the scope to the zenith as there's not much space with the 8 inch tube and you need to watch the cord wrapping around the mount. There's a setting to stop it happening in the handset. I eventually used mine on a computerised CG5 mount which sorted out all the above issues. I only sold the 8SE whe I switched to astrophotograpy and bought an EQ6.
  15. I think that's the laser show at Holbrook Hall near Fakenham. I saw it Monday night.
  16. We arrived on Monday, cold and windy. My astro tent broke several poles Tuesday night so was taken down. Luckily I've got some spares. We're now back home as there wasn't any chance of any astronomy and there's a chance it's more likely to be clear at home! We didn't even take the telescopes out of the motorhome garage. Tuesday night was really windy and not a weather warning in sight! Kelling Heath up to its old tricks! Let's hope the spring one goes ahead next year.
  17. Have you installed the Atik core software? I used to run a 320e camera fine on Windows 10.
  18. Had you cropped and resaved the stack? You may have lost the fits header info. If so have you tried inputting the catalogue no and camera pixel size etc and looking the coordinates up first?
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