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About Tommohawk

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    The Quantocks, Somerset

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  1. I tried Photoshop auto colour autocontrast and autotone - not sure if you prefer this? I think thats nearer to the typical rendition.
  2. Well I think the first one, 3.6 barlowed, shows a crazy amount of detail for a 127mm - thats really good.
  3. I think its a good go at a very challenging target especially with a 127. Agree that the colour balance is a bit yellow/brown. Also agree re IR block - not sure how much IR there is from Saturn, but if your sensor is IR sensitive you will get smearing due to atmospheric dispersion which you cant fix with RGB alignment in processing. good luck!
  4. Hey Dave that's a cracker - excellent!!
  5. Hi folks - everyone's out enjoying the sun and the clear but short nights I guess! Really would appreciate a couple of answers if anyone knows! 1. Why do my Firecapture red histos drops off after the first one? If it was to do with focus drifting you'd think the G nd B would drop too. Also when I'm done focus still looks good. Also the live histo show 60+, where the reported histo in the log shows 40ish. 2. Can I delete individual or selected frames in either PIPP or AS!2 ? Thanks in advance!!
  6. Yes, I meant to say that too - most of my kit is second hand, and perfectly OK. You can get "as new" kit for at least 1/3 cheaper.
  7. I agree with John, going to a local group makes a lot of sense. I guess the only snag is your lad might get a cracking view of Saturn through something big and expensive like a C14 and decide thats the scope for him! We're heading for a bit of a lean patch for planets unfortunately - Saturn is good for the next 6 weeks I guess, but both Jupiter and Saturn will be low for some years. The moon is just amazing so if you can nudge your son in that direction it would be good. Or DSOs of course. Dont be too scared of imaging by the way - it is a very dark art, but using Deepsky stacker and especially the "Live" version you can get views of DSO that you really cant get with an eyepiece. I'm a bit of a screen freak, and never use eyepieces so thats a very one sided view. Regarding scopes refractors are easier/lower maintenance, but Newtonians especially Dobsonians give more bang per buck - thats my version anyway!!
  8. Follow on note. So as an experiment I ran one of the problem AVIs through PIPP with "Enable quality estimation" and "reorder in quality order" ticked. Lo and behold the chopped up frames are now relegated to the end. Whats more, the carried over blue frames are also put to the end - not sure how that happens, but it does! Just for interest I ran the sorted file through AS!2 - and it puts the dodgy frames back to the beginning! Take home message here, for me at least, is let PIPP do the quality estimation and sorting, and just use AS!2 for stacking. I'm beginning to wonder just how much of a problem this has caused with my previous RGB planetary efforts! I've got a full 1TB drive to wade through so that should keep my oout of trouble for a while!
  9. Hi all. I'm using Firecapture to image Jupiter with ASI290MM with an EFW and something odd is going on with my red histos. I set all channels to the same exposure and gain - I realise this isnt neccesarily the best way, but for now thats what I do As I do the captures, typically 4 runs of 120secs per colour, the histo looks consistent - about 66% for R and G and about 55% for blue. But when I l look at the log files, the reported max and average histo values for the red captures are OK on the first capture, but greatly reduced on all the subsequent red ones. The G and B histos are consistent throughout. So for example last night I did 6 runs, for the red max/average histos I got: 1. 162/63% 2. 97/38% 3. 107/41% 4. 112/43% 5. 101/39% 6. 103/40% I watched the histo carefully on the last run and it didnt dip below 60%. So how can this happen??? I'd be really gratefull for any answeres! One other unrelated - I think - issue, is that on subsequent runs, because I dont have a delay set, I catch the filter as it switches in at the beginning of the run - except on the first run of course. Hmmmm as I type this I'm just cross checking with the unsorted AVI files in AS!2 and I see that not only am I getting a few chopped up frames as the filter switches in, but also neearly 100 of the previous run. So at the beginning of my 2nd red run I have about 100 blue images (approx 110 fps) Clearly I could sort this by having a delay. But right now I have 2 issues: 1. Is the reported histo value affected by the carry over of frames from the previous colour run? 2. Crucially, the AS!2 sorted AVI has included at the beginning some dodgy frames at the beginning, ie deemed to be good quality, which are from the previous colour, and also some with half a frame from the filter switch which for some reason arent rejected. So - how do I delete individual frames from the sorted file??? I cant see any way to do this. Alternatively, can I delete them in PIPP which I run everything thought first? Or maybe PIPP has a setting to reject dodgy frames with mismatched data or half frames.? Sorry people - lots of questions!! Would really appreciate any help, especially as Jupiter is about to exit, stage right!!
  10. Hi Steve Thanks for that - agreed I cant see any damage (apart from my finger!) and I believe on the ASI1600 the front needs to be removed to replace the dessicant, so I guess its meant to be user serviceable.
  11. I think that would be beyond me TBH. Probably the issue will resolve by simply not routinely disconnecting the filter - and being very careful if I do.
  12. Well, now I realise that I probably could reach focus with the filter wheel unbarlowed - certainly I can with the trees in the distance. Seems like the focuser need to be further out than I thought.
  13. Had a minor disaster with the recently purchased ASI 290MM last night. Hoped to get something between the clouds, and needless to say that didnt work out, but in the effort I had a much greater problem. I can't get focus with the filter wheel in place unless barlowed, so unscrewed the filter wheel to mount just the camera to acquire target. The filter wheel can off easily, but then I needed to remove the 42mm/42mm adapter. What I didnt realise in the gloom is that as I unscrewed the adapter, the whole front plate of the camera came unscrewed with it. Consequently the front window and O ring type seal fell out - fortunately I was working over a clean table so these were retrieved easily - but there was worse to come. AS I tried to reasssemble the parts I noticed a dark stain appearing on some of the components - as though some horrible liquid sealant was escaping from the housing. It took a while to realise that I had a cut in my finger from a sharp edge on the adapter, and was bleeding everywhere. Fortunately nothing got into the camera itself but I had a devil of a job trying to put things back together without getting dust or blood into the works. In then end I just reassembled it best possible and then cleaned it today. I am mightily miffed because my nice new camera, one of the few new purchases I have made, has now been opened and exposed to whatever, and in the process because I had to set down the filter wheel in a rush I've got dust in there too. I'm going to contact ZWO to se what they have to say, but in the meantime - you have been warned! Given the assembly method its inevitable that the camera face may unscrew together with another component - but maybe some kind of locking screw would fix it. For now I just need to be very careful and find some other way of reaching focus unbarlowed so I dont need to unscrew the filter wheel again. PS have just noticed the new ASI1600 has exactly this fix applied to solve the problem Regards to all Tom
  14. Hmmm. got me thinking. Been while since I did DSOs with the DSLR but cant remember what I do with Live view. I use EOS utilities on laptop to control and I think I must turn it off once imaging, but whether that turns off the liveview on the camera I'm not sure. Need to have a play with this and see! Thanks for the heads up
  15. I agree 100%. Unless you need very long exposures for an exceptionally faint target, or are planning to use narrosband filter, you could probably get away with unguided. Needs good polar alignment of course.