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About TheDadure

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  1. ok i will try to pollar allign it better next time
  2. thank you for response,i will leave it the way it is then
  3. lens is really heavy so if i connect it to the camera i think it would fall of xD ,so i connect it to the screw on lens,which is in the middle of it, but when i put my camera that side becomes little heavier and if i unlock the screw it would slowly turn down,so i thought that it can probably affect tracking a little bit
  4. yes i am, with counterweight and i can balance it pretty well on ra but my dec is a problem
  5. thanks for response,i do too most of the time but this lens is 300mm focal length and 2kg with f4.5 ,so it is pretty big and i cannot use it on ballhead ps i did manage to get 3 minute exposures with it,but i think i can get a liitle bit more out of it if i balance it properly
  6. Hey guys, recently i realised i have a problem with balancing my scope(lens) on my SA mount the problem is in dec cordinate, because i only have one screw on my lens and if i screw it there one part is always heavier than other i've seen people managing this with a sliding plate to adjust the sides to be equally heavvy but u don't have one of theese i hope you understand what i'm saying, if not i will post an image clear skies
  7. A lot of time and nerves invested in this image I drove 1 hour with my friend and equipment on SCOOTER to image this in bortle 4 zone night before school i took darks too late when camera almost got to room temperature it is 1.5 hours of total exposure time every frame was 3 minutes long tracked with SA and lens was vintage tair 3 300mm f4.5 wide open Luckily it wasn't freezing so we stayed longer than usual ps. i didn't use any flats
  8. tnx for response, this shot was just to test my equipment, next time i am going to take more data and more calibration frames
  9. This time i wanted to take a picture of something more difficult to test my equipment, so i took some images of owl nebula and surfboard galaxy It was freezing so i took only 30x2min exposures,5 darks and 10 bias and some flat frames stacked in dss and edited in PI image is a tight crop and was taken in bortle 4 with canon 1300d, tair 300mm f4.5 and Skywatcher SA without guiding iso 800, aperature wide open owl and surfboard were really small and not that bright(10mag) but i didn't have many problems while taking pictures and found them pretty fast with starhoping method ps in the uncropped version i also captured 2 ngc galaxies which are 14 mag
  10. thanks for advice everybody, next time i will apply everything you mentioned
  11. So, about month ago i took this image of horsehead and falme in yellow light pollution zone,and i was pretty satisfied with it considering the equipment and weather,but unlike my other images this one has too much noise in it. I did everything the same this time as the last time just stacked it and autostreched it in pixinsight,but unlike my other images this one was 30x2mins exposures and iso 3200.I took 10 darks and bias frames. So is it because i shot only 30 images,or because of high iso settings,or maybe something else. camera was EOS 1300d(pretty basic camera) and lens tair 300mm f4.5 (image has some dark spots on it when i tried to do something with noise in photoshop but forgot to undo it) Can i do anything to lower the noise and not destroy details in the image? ps. Image is cropped to fit horsehead and m78 in frame,i haven't used any filters and camera is not modified
  12. Thanks for advice!!! clear skies
  13. Hi everybody, My school starts in 2 days so i don't think i will have as much time for astrophotography,as i had on holidays. I improved my processing and bought myself tracker(skywatcher SA) and 300mm f4.5 old russian telephoto lens 3 months ago,and i was very happy how my images turned out,but still think i could improve them somehow. So if you have any ideas and tips to give me,feel free to do so. Here are photos i took in last 3 months in chronological order i already posted this image,i think iso was 1600,30s and f4.5 around 20-30 lights,10 darks and bias frames(if i remember well) photo was taken from red zone balcony with bad polar allignment next was andromeda,again iso 1600,30s,f4.5 20 lights,8 darks and bias image taken from backyard in yellow zone pollar allignment was better but i didn't have shutter release for longer exposures i wasn't pleased with this shot,orion was low in the sky so conditions weren't the best iso 1600,30s,f4.5 15 lights,7 darks and bias backyard in orange zone pollar allignment was pretty good but temperature was -13(in celsius) and my tracker just stopped tracking well so i didn't take any more shots these shots were taken yesterday from orange zone iso 1600,1 minute exposures,f4.5 polar allignment was perfect,i could do 3 minutes without guiding with no trails(lens is pretty heavy) but longer exposures were totally yellow 30 lights,5 darks and 10 bias orion was high in the sky,temperature was -4 and i am pretty happy how it turned out gear isn't the best but it is lightweight and that means a lot to me because a lot of those images were taken 2 km away from my apartment and i have to go on foot i started processing in dss and than in lightroom,but in last shots instead of lightroom i used pixinsight for more natural ones and photoshop for the saturated one. camera isn't astro modified(eos 1300d) lens is tair 300mm f4,5 that's it,sorry for the long post ps i think i need darker skies and more total exposure time to kill the noise
  14. Thanks for advice,i am definitely going to try drift alligning and taking flats and dark flats.
  15. This is the first time i imaged deep sky object,actually i did some imagging but it was only wide field. I took this picture from my balcony in city,i couldn't polar allign so i just pointed my skywatcher star adventurer north and set it to 45 degreees on polaris(polaris is not visible because my balcony is oriented to east) camera was canon 1300d(not modified) lens tair 3 300mm,wide open at f4.5 iso was 1600 and exposure time was 30s it was not guided and 20 lights,10 darks and 12 bias frames were used. stacked in deep sky stacker and processed in lightroom. i think it is a bit too overprocessed in lightroom(it was because i needed to remove all the light pollution) and that f4.5 shows a bit chromatic aberration and stars too big,but i will do better next time. Except everything i just said do you guys have any recommedations to add. My next targets are probably going to be m31 and m42,but i will picture them from a darker site ps. it was pretty cloudy so i didn't have enough time and some frames stacked had clouds in it so i think that had impact on ifnal image,moon was just below horizon
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