scotty38

To be honest I'm not really fussed one way or the other. 99% of the time I only show my pictures to my wife and I can assure you she doesn't give a hoot as to whether it's had any BlurXT or any other process used or not. I just get a "That's nice" regardless..... Now if it was being submitted for scientific use maybe that would be a different story but it's just a hobby for me and I see plenty of images that are "better" than mine but hey ho I don't much care how they were done... 😀

You can also import an image into the NINA framing wizard if you want to start there. Once in the Framing tool I think it will do all you need.

I haven't touched the K-Factor adjustments either but think I may move the cloud clear setting a bit now you've reminded me......

I must admit I keep wondering about changing the sky temp limits. It can be out a touch but it hasn't seemed to cause me any bother yet though. The one I have fiddled with is rain just to make sure it picks it up ok. I was having a play last week as we had a few spots of rain that didn't register as quickly as I wanted. Is yours at default as I couldn't recall what they were but seeing yours rings a bell now.

Bit late to this and can't offer anything on the rotation but I am curious on the use of images. I know plenty of folk do this but I never have and, I think, my method would have prevented your issues BUT I may be missing reasons as to why images are used instead 🙂 What I do for any object once framed/rotated etc is either save that as a target or save the sequence in which it's embedded and then when I come to add to it the coordinates and rotation etc is already there and available. Is there any advantage or other reason for doing it via an image?

I know you have two issues, one of which may not be relevant here, but what happens if you remove the hub and connect things directly?

Fair enough but don't forget to send us a postcard 🙂

You're going to China and will spend your time faffing with astro images.... 🤣

Apologies I did not spot it 🙂

Just to add to the very extensive reply you've had already, if it's needed and helps you can have NINA create directories by using \\ in the file naming options.

Hmm not great but fingers crossed you sorted it....

Cannot comment on the ES scopes but I have a GT81 and it's great 🙂

There are at least a couple of places in NINA where you can see when the flip will happen. I have the "Telescope" pane in the imaging tab setup and the flip time is shown there plus also in the DIYMF plugin that I use in the sequencer. This is what I have in my flip section and it works fine every time. I also have a Centre after Drift trigger as part of the sequence too though. Ignore the time that's showing as the sequence is not actually running.

This is the one I went for: AAG CloudWatcher cloud detector – Lunático Astronomía (lunaticoastro.com) I also added the humidity, pressure and the wind speed sensors, couldn't resist.... All mine came from FLO by the way. Conditions as we speak:

Here's what I put on the other thread.... If you're speaking of the Hydreon unit for the cloudwatcher that is more of an ON/OFF for rain and can be affected by dew. I went for the other version that can be set accordingly for Rain/Wet/Dry as needed. Also the internal device is probably the SOLO which isn't needed really. I have the Cloudwatcher connected to my observatory pc and then check things out via that. You can install the software on another network connected PC if you wish but I don't bother. Also if you buy one now you'll get the detector that will support the latest software which converts the sky brightness reading into SQM. I have that software installed as they sent it me to fix a couple of bugs I'd found but unfortunately my version is just a tad too old so I'll need to buy a new cover as and when they're available.

Ha I just replied on your other thread.... I'll fetch it over here

If you're speaking of the Hydreon unit for the cloudwatcher that is more of an ON/OFF for rain and can be affected by dew. I went for the other version that can be set accordingly for Rain/Wet/Dry as needed. Also the internal device is probably the SOLO which isn't needed really. I have the Cloudwatcher connected to my observatory pc and then check things out via that. You can install the software on another network connected PC if you wish but I don't bother. Also if you buy one now you'll get the detector that will support the latest software which converts the sky brightness reading into SQM. I have that software installed as they sent it me to fix a couple of bugs I'd found but unfortunately my version is just a tad too old so I'll need to buy a new cover as and when they're available.

Given you're adding the dome and shutter motors I'd consider a cloudwatcher too to close it all up if it rains etc. I do this with mine and integrate it all into NINA, works a treat.

ok yes I see. Very odd and I'll give it some more thought just in case I have a bright idea.....

Probably means GHS - GeneralisedHyperbolicStretch Edit - just noticed you're using Siril and not PixInsight so I may be wrong....

That's not really correct, some CMOS cameras calibrate better with flat darks but plenty will use bias just fine.

It seems likely it's still a com port mismatch between GSS and your mount. I assume you don't need the prolific usb driver as I don't see it in devices? If port 3, 5 or 6 is your mount I'd configure that in GSS along with the baud rate needed, for me it's 115200.

Yep once you try it there’s no going back 👍

Log level at info should be fine if you need to look into them

I'd try the cable then or try removing any hubs if you have them