scotty38

Do you need or want USB3? If there's no real need then why not just use a USB2 cable? I know folk have mentioned the distance but if the USB2 works it'll certainly be more cost effective than an active cable. Forgot to say and it may be obvious but a USB2 cable will fit and work fine in a USB3 port.

MIght be worth persevering with limit settings. I know I had to mess with EQMOD and my AZ-EQ6 to get it right but it's definitely worth it versus software going awry and your scope hitting the legs due to no limits. As an aside I use GSS now as I found it far eaiser to work out/set the limits accordingly. Oh and I found GSS far easier to set custom park positions too so if you want the horizontal park GSS makes that a piece of cake.

Doesn't seem that mindless to me but although he can appear brash Dale does know his stuff. Did you do the full uninstall as he asked?

Congratulations that's a wonderful image but that's clearly apparent without me saying so 🙂

Just to add to this I have used both APP and PI. I decided fairly early on that most, if not all, the processing would be done in PI but i paid for APP just for mosaics if nothing else. However, the one thing that made me not renew was the fact that it stripped all the FITs information when stacking. I asked and asked about this and it was always just coming but at the point I gave in it wasn't there. It may be now I have no idea but I have no need to go back to it. Additionally the documentation and instructional videos available for PI are a ridiculous magnitude better than APP, just my opinion though...

I am being partly flippant but I'd say "Buy the best mount you can('t) afford because if you don't you will lose a bit upgrading once your knowledge lets you know the "mistake" you made."

NINA should focus with whatever you have selected here: or indeed as here:

Can't you just run it directly from the car's 12v supply? Just as if you had a portable battery pack

Is the screenshot above from the plugin page? I think you can change those settings in the docked app on the Imaging Tab too but no idea if that makes any difference or overrides anything.

No help whatsoever just idle curiosity on the choice of these versus say the Pulsar ones, cost???

I use NINA to control mine.

Surely Just rename it manually once you've created it or just put them in dated directories. That's what I do, I have a "Calibration" directory and then just dated areas underneath for things like flats that might change a bit more regularly.

Only just saw this but the master flats created, in fact any masters, will be in a directory called "Masters" underneath the location you set in WBPP. Just bear in mind that if you used masters in the first place they won't be saved again in the Masters directory. You can choose post processing options for how a OSC file is saved, you can choose Combined, R,G and B and Combined + R, G and B. I did think Combined was the default so you should get one master RGB file unless you changed it.

Nice work but you mention scrapping the roof automation but how much work is left to do on it? Only asking as weather sensors and auto roof means you can go to bed and worry very little....

I'm going to say processing is what will make a difference as points 2 and 3 are not an issue as far as I'm concerned....

okey doke, well in that case I suspect it's the 0 you have in there.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you but the wizard will take the flats and darks at the same time, or as part of the same process to be more accurate, so other than it taking longer there's no more you need to do

Just to add I manually change my panel brightness and use dynamic exposure to get the time to where I want it. Obv if you take the flats and flat darks at the same time it'll expose the darks for the same length as the flats.

Just realised what you're saying so why use Sky flats rather than the dynamic option

Try changing the step size away from 0, try 0.1 if you want it small

How do you have the minimum brightness set? I have seen this issue come up when it's set to 0, might be worth a try changing if it is.

Clutching here as I've never done it for images like this but what happens if you try StarAlignment?

Is it a permanent setup? When did you last calibrate?

As Steve says you can only have one imaging camera running in one instance of NINA at any time. If you need to mix and match what that camera is then as said create two profiles and choose the one you need depending on what you're doing. All the configuration in any specific profile is based on the scope and camera that has been selected.

You might find this useful too if you've not already seen it: WBPP Information retrieval