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Xiga last won the day on October 9 2018

Xiga had the most liked content!

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About Xiga

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    Proto Star

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    Northern Ireland
  1. Thanks for sharing the data Richard! I echo your thoughts on our weather this winter, it's been no better for us up here in the North either I had a blast processing this! I've never really processed dust before, and it was a joy to work with data this good! I seem to have ended up with something that's all together brighter and more colourful, lol. Eek! Not sure how i feel about it tbh, i went back and forth a fair bit before settling on this one. All done in PS btw. Bravo on your star handling btw. This is something i am going to have to improve on. I'm used to doing NB, so i still find dense RGB star fields quite a challenge, albeit a fun one Cheers!
  2. A big thanks to Adam! @tooth_dr for sending me a spare mask he had lying around I'll be sure to put it to good use
  3. Hi guys I want to get a Bahtinov mask 3D-Printed for a lens i just picked up 2nd hand (Tamron 135mm F2.8). After searching online, i came across the link below, which contains an .stl file for a Bahtinov Mask to fit a Samyang 135mm F2 lens. Everything about this mask should work fine for my lens, with the obvious exception that the Samyang is much wider. Based on the stl file, I think the Samyang mask has an inside diameter of 94mm, whereas i would need it to be 63mm to fit neatly (with a smidge to spare) around the Tamron. If all else fails, i could always just line the inside with something of the right thickness, but i figured if i'm going to get it printed then i might as well try my best to get one that fits properly. So i'm hoping the file only needs a small tweak to tailor it to my needs, but not knowing anything about 3D printing i'm totally out of my depth, lol. Would anyone be able to help me out? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2168672 Thanks all!
  4. Xiga

    NGC2264 Cone Nebula and Fox Fur

    Even by your own lofty standards, that's just incredible Barry. There is almost a complete lack of any noise at all. It's like looking at a print on glass. Astonishing.
  5. Both images are amazing Richard. I prefer the noise in the re-process, but i also like the faint dust visible in the upper-right of the original. Maybe something between the two? ps - There's a wee galaxy towards the lower-left, which i just loved finding
  6. Xiga

    DSLR M63 with ED80 (Sunflower Galaxy)

    Yep it looks like you nailed it Adam. You basically just create a new layer, set it to blend mode Color, and then run HLVG on it. If you run HLVG on a Normal layer, it destroys the green data and adds a lot of noise. ps - Not to make any more work for you but i can see a couple of satellite trails (bottom and top-left). You could remove these easily enough with Carboni's banding reduction actions.
  7. Ah that makes sense then why the Ha was so off from the others. As for the area around Alnitak, you can see that the extreme glare and spicules of light that are present in all the other stacks, are not present in the Ha stack. So with the Ha stack, you basically already have a pre-made 'smaller stretch' Alnitak to call upon. So all i did was layer in the Ha in blend mode Luminosity, then masked out the whole layer, and then (using a low opacity, soft brush) gradually punched a whole around Alnitak through the mask until the glare was reduced just enough.
  8. Cheers! I tend to do the main big stretch in APP. Then any smaller curve adjustments in PS.
  9. Thanks Richard Looking forward to seeing your version (if the clouds ever clear)
  10. Hi Adam I had a quick play with the data last night. I see what you mean about the conditions, they obviously weren't great. But here's my main takeaways: 1. The Green data looks weak. You might be better asking other mono imagers who have imaged the HH before, to find out if they usually up their Green exposures a bit (or just get more of them) compared to the others. The Flame Nebula we know is supposed to be an Orangey colour, and for this i think it needs a good bit of green data, so that could be the main problem you were having. 2. Did the Red flats work ok? I thought i could see a large ring running around the periphery of the Red stack. 3. The Ha stack is rotated quite a lot from the other stacks, so a pretty big crop was needed (exactly as you have done). If i were in your position right now (i.e doing filter work with a mono camera, requiring multiple nights on the same target) i think i would prioritise something like SGP next. The importance of returning to your target, not only within a few pixels, but crucially within a fraction of a degree's rotation, cannot be stressed enough. FYI, i rotate manually in SGP and it usually only takes me 5 mins (10 at most) to get within 0.5 degrees. It's been a long time since i've used APT (my first acquisition program, so it will always hold a special place in my heart) so i don't know what tools it has for getting accurate rotation once it's done it's plate-solving. As for the processing, i first made a simple RGB combine file (so no Ha or Luminance at this stage) as we're only dealing with pure colour at this stage. On this I didn't run 'remove light pollution' in APP, but i did run 'calibrate background', as 'calibrate star colors' needs this to be ran first. It was hard finding areas of true sky background (or the closest to it) so i used the stretched Ha stack as a guide, and placed a few boxes on the areas that looked darkest on it. Here's how it came out: As you can see, the colour of the Flame is already starting to separate from the main Ha nebulosity. Next up was 'calibrate star colors'. I'm not sure about this step myself if i'm being honest, i only have the Video Tutorial over on the APP website to go by. In the end, i had to use what felt like some crazy high numbers to get the right balance. I don't know if this is down to the fact that the data is so lacking in Green, or if i was just doing it wrong, but at least visually i thought it looked better. Anyways, here is the settings i used: After this i popped in PS. I added your Super Lum file as Luminance, by adding it to the Brightness Channel in LAB mode. I then added the Ha to the Reds in blend mode Lighten. I then used a layer mask to layer in a small amount of Ha as Luminance but only around Alnitak, just to tame it a bit. Then it was just the usual stuff, HLVG, some saturation, a spot of sharpening, some NR, and added a bit of vibrancy. All in all probably about 30 mins in total. Hope that was of some use to you Adam. I've shown the output below, and thanks for letting me play with it, as i've never worked with an HaLRGB image before.
  11. Xiga

    DSLR M63 with ED80 (Sunflower Galaxy)

    Wow Adam that looks really good. You've got loads of detail there in the galaxy, well done! Can I offer a couple of pieces of CC? 1. It could be my phone's screen, but the stars look a little green to me. A quick run of HLVG (on a Color layer) should sort that out. 2. I would maybe try a bit of star reduction. The star of the show here is obviously M63, but with it being quite small, some of the larger stars can distract the eyes attention from it.
  12. Glad you got APP working for you Adam I feel your pain as regards the conditions lately. Its been near impossible for me to get anything at all really these last 2 months. It sounds like gradient reduction might not work on this particular data set, but i would still expect the Star Color Calibration to do it's thing. Sure PM me links to the individual stacks (not the ones you've combined already) and I'll have a quick play with them this evening. If i find the data is usable then I'll let you know what settings I used in APP.
  13. Hi Adam I'm surprised APP couldn't handle aligning the data. If you want, I don't mind having a go at it for you. We both might learn something in the process As regards getting the colour balance right, I presume you weren't able to run 'Remove Light Pollution' and 'Star Color Calibration' in APP? The latter really helps to set the colour balance for RGB images correctly. You could even Re-import the manually aligned PS image back into APP to run the routines. Just remember, after running Star Colour Calibration, you still need to remove the Green. If it were me, I'd do this in PS using HLVG.
  14. Thanks Kev. Although i'm still not sure which is the right one, a UNC or a Whitworth? In any case, before i saw yours and Steve's post, i ordered the parts today. Hopefully they will be ok! Here's what i went with in the end: I got this adapter to connect to the bottom of the Manfrotto (it's sold specifically as a Manfrotto adapter, so has the right sized 3/8 Male screw on the top, and a standard 1/4" Female end on the bottom). The whole thing will then reside on a Celestron Universal Mounting Plate (CG5), specifically on one of the 1/4" threads near the right hand edge. Note, the dovetail itself is 15mm thick: The Celestron dovetail has a flat bottom, and i didn't want the screw to foul it, so i needed a 1/4" grub screw to connect the dovetail to the Manfrotto adapter. I went for this, at a length of 3/4" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNC-A2-Grade-Stainless-Steel-Socket-Grub-Screws-Allen-4-6-8-10-1-4-5-16-3-8/292725587589?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=591518004116&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Any thoughts on this guys? My only slight concern is the grub screw. Just want to make sure it's going to be strong enough to do the job. Cheers!

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