scotty38

Obviously any flats you add will most likely be assigned by WBPP based on any rules/config you have in place. Choosing them manually is a way to override that if you want or need something different including incorrect FITS headers causing incorrect automation for example.

Yes you can pick whichever is in the list. Click on the dropdown and all the loaded flats will be there to choose from.

You can use keywords if you wish but maybe the easiest way is to select as below. Select the light and then pick the flat you want in the Calibration Settings box.

I have a NAS with mirrored drives that I backup data to. I also have a USB drive off the back of the NAS that I use for snapshots of specific data on the NAS. Fingers crossed I need no more than that 🙂 Edit: In fact for my Astro stuff my mini pc in the Obs copies its data to the NAS in the first instance and I use that to transfer to my processing machine. My backups go to a different place on the NAS so in fact I end up with two copies of the source data until I do some pruning.

Good point, I must admit I was imagining mine was with the knurled bit at the marker but it's not in front of me 🙂

As you know, I think, you need the 55mm from the back of the Flat6A to the sensor and then, for the GT71, you need the Flat6A adjusting to 9.1mm. Looking at your image it doesn't look like it's anywhere near that setting, looks closer to 0mm, is that how you have it?

The Advance is cheaper, it has dew heater control as well as variable power output if needed. Once configured you don't need any software running if you'd prefer and the whole lot can be managed and integrated into NINA. It's what I'd do, and I did although I never did want an ASIAIR to be fair.

This is a Samsung 980 Pro

Spinning disks really only have cost on their side these days, no other reason to use them.

Personally I'd focus (sorry) on the other side and ask if the combination gives you the FOV you'd like. Unless I have the wrong end of the stick there's no point having a technically perfect setup if you don't like the view you get. I'd also bet that conditions are more likely to kill any perfection that is there anyway. I've seen all sorts of camera/scope combinations produce some wicked images but similarly I've scoured Astrobin for my camera/scopes of desire and seen some shockers 🙂

It'd most likely have to be free for me to go through the trials and tribulations of buying direct. I know some will say no issues and that's fine but we've read about plenty that do have trouble. Also some will say "It's easy to say that if you can afford the full amount" but I'd probably argue your money is more safely spent with a local dealer like FLO especially if the hassle of returns etc make that £x00 cheaper item a £x00 paperweight.

Ok in that case given it's APT and NINA I'm going to take a stab at the Ascom driver either not doing what you think it should or it's not installing properly. I'd be tempted to ask 4tronix.

I guess it should appear but does the windows software see the device in the first place?

I believe you're using NINA so you can do the same there and loop very short exposures in the Imaging tab.

Here you go:

Thanks, that's also only had the slightest of crops (WBPP Autocrop) so I've not removed anything that doesn't look ok either. Agreed on the 1x too as fi they did I'd probably order one. I have looked at other third party options but never really sure if they'd work so haven't bothered getting one.

I have one and think it's great although it's my first, and only, astro scope so cannot compare with anything else personally. One of my last images before clouds etc rolled in:

In theory that's neither I guess but I don't set anything other than the side of pier as below. I think the HEQ5 would send that info so it should be all you need and then the flips know exactly what to do.

It's the pointing state of the mount and of course changes side after a flip

I don't know the details as I've never used one but I do know that many people have issues with NINA when using Synscan and the advice is to remove it. Having said that I don't know if you can.... Just a heads up more than anything....

Doesn't that populate when you start guiding?

I'm not sure that there's necessarily anything wrong but whatever is set and also if it's set to run from the current position will determine what moves or doesn't and by how much. I'm at 53 degrees too and these settings move both axes. I "forgot" to tidy up the Altitude hence why it's a little specific 🙂

TPPA will move both axes depending on your altitude and azimuth settings.

Can I be the joker please and say the first thing to buy when imaging with an 8se is an 80mm refractor. Thank you and I'll get my coat... 🙂 🙂

My, unsurprising, vote is for NINA if only for its ridiculous rate of enhancement and development. I never got on with APT, I tried twice, so it would be unfair of me to say one is better than the other but I find NINA very intuitive but maybe that's just me 🙂