nfotis

Wondering if this 1x flattener (or a similar) would be suitable match for people who want the longer focal length: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p10307_TS-Optics-REFRAKTOR-1-0x-Flattener-Bildfeldkorrektor---2--Anschluss.html N.F. EDIT. Or maybe this 2.5" flattener? https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p10264_TS-Optics-REFRACTOR-1-0x-Flattener-for-Full-Frame-Sensors---M63x1-connection.html

Here in Greece, there's only a small reseller available (500 km away from Athens), so it's not much different dealing with a Chinese seller (and paying VAT directly to the state). If there's a technical problem which needs a repair, having a local reseller handling it is cheaper for you as an end customer, but you will pay for this convenience (hence Altair Astro prices). What you really want is a local service center, but even ZWO (the largest company of the sector, I think) has opened such a facility in the USA only recently. N.F.

For floaters, it's my understanding that slower scopes (f/12 or f/15) are less susceptible to these. At least, I see lots of floaters on my C9.25, but none on my Skymax 180. N.F.

Can I suggest a Skymax 150? The closed tube construction and Maksutov design offer less problems with dust etc on the primary mirror, and reflector-like contrasty views on planets and the Sun/Moon. It's the smallest model which accepts 2" diagonal and eyepieces and covers a full frame sensor. If that's too large, the Skymax 127 offers a large enough view to shoot with an APS-C camera sensor. A dew shield should help (and you can use an insulator like Reflectix in order to reduce air turbulence inside the tube, which often is a problem when air temperatures change too fast). RC scopes are usually very fickle when collimating, many users have been unhappy with this aspect (these are easy to mess up, and they are recommended for experienced astrophotographers). N.F.

The IMX462 and IMX464 (two and four megapixels, respectively) are probably the nicest planetary sensors available at the moment. Player One has the only IMX464 planetary camera I know, most other companies offer the IMX462. https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/neptune-c-ii-usb3-0-color-camera-imx464/ N.F.

There's another topic on these cameras, which you may find useful: Cheers, N.F.

Nice looking scope. Any possibility of a flattener only? I think that many people would like to retain this focal length and just correct any aberrations. N.F.

Surprised to read about Sharpstar building mounts as well. The "mark III" implies existing mounts in the past, but I don't remember the company ever building mounts. Outside my financial league, unfortunately. N.F.

Spoken like a true veteran 🙂 N.F.

You can definitely use a Crayford or rack-and-pinion focuser in the back of your Mak 180 (I do). And you can add a motorized focus, too, if you are so inclined. The Mak 180 has an SCT-compatible visual back, so you can add accessories, extension tubes etc. N.F.

Ah, okay (didn't see the thread in time). It's my understanding that outside the ZWO ecosystem there's very thin support for other equipment, so this might be a limitation for you in the future. Cheers, N.F.

The ASIair means that you are restricted to using only ZWO products. If you are fine with that, it's a good solution. The following video is a good demonstration of an automated set-up around a Raspberry Pi, worth watching: Cheers, N.F.

Had ordered a laser pointer via Ebay, but it doesn't operate when I installed fresh batteries in it (I suppose that a 5 USD price was too good to be true...). This looks exactly like these: https://www.amazon.com/3Pcs-Interactive-Cat-Kitten-Dogs/dp/B09228WSL8/ref=sr_1_1 Any suggestions? I am thinking about outreach mostly (to show constellations etc to others) N.F.

It's my understanding that the distance of the filters from the sensor is a major parameter (and the scope f-ratio another). There's a calculator for these: https://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_filter_size In general, 36mm filters work up to APS-C sensor size for most medium speed scopes. Vignetting is a problem indeed, but you can reduce its impact via flats (I think). N.F.

If you have a reasonably dark site, the 2600mc is good enough in my understanding. Under heavy light pollution (like in Athens), a monochrome version of this sensor would be preferable (despite its higher costs). On the other hand, you are collecting photons in all bands concurrently, so a good filter might help. Personally, the 2600mm with filter wheel and filters would be ideal, but the costs tend to skyrocket... N.F.

Intriguing. So, what's the smallest Mak which can accept directly 1.25" eyepieces? N.F.

You may want to check this tutorial from Cuiv on hubblesite, in case you didn't see it already: N.F.

I know this is tangential, but may I suggest going to NASA or other institutions and download Hubble and other telescopes data for exercising your processing workflows? This should keep you busy enough on cloudy nights... 🙂 https://hla.stsci.edu/ https://archive.stsci.edu/missions-and-data/hst https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XR1DQRO69E N.F.

Welcome to SGL. You should find this forum quite an interesting place. You might be interested in my first night with the Skymax 180 topic (need to find time to carry the equipment to the rooftop again for some more fun): Regards, N.F.

Note that I was exposing at f/30, so I wasn't able to raise the FPS without raising the gain much. Another idea would be to try my C9.25 with 2x and 3x Barlow, to see how well it works at f/20 and f/30... Cheers, N.F.

Apologies for overlooking the answers in this topic. I don't remember about the height, but Athens in end of May wasn't bad. I must retry now that temperatures are falling to more humane levels (carrying stuff two levels above to the rooftop under heat is no fun at all) N.F.

Personally, I like the LG IPS panels regarding color, I feel these offer a quite pleasing color rendition out of the box without a garish palette (I feel that Sony and Samsung are overdoing it in their settings). All TVs and monitors can be correctly or badly adjusted, so avoid playing with the color palette initially until your eyes learn to discern the colors. N.F.

I use a 2x Barlow on my Skymax 180, as there's no such thing as too much focal length when shooting planets 🙂 Usually, most planetary camera sensors have optimum sampling around f/20, so a 1.5x to 2x Barlow should complement nicely the Skymax. An electronic focuser is also quite helpful. Manually focusing is quite shaky for me on my HEQ5 mount. Enjoy, N.F.

Hmm, for faint objects, if you dislike spider vanes and spikes and you don't want a SCT or Maksutov, it seems that your only option is a larger refractor? I was going to suggest an 102ED, but it seems that you are already covered. An 125 Apochromatic isn't a large enough jump, I think, while an 152 ED or similar is too large If you are interested in astrophotography (implicit due to the remark about spikes), a photographic lens might be another solution? N.F.

If you dislike spikes due to spider vanes (I do), I suggest either an SCT or a Maksutov if you want a long focal distance. A C9.25 or a Skymax 150/180 might be a nice complement to your existing scope. What's the load rating of your mount? N.F.