nfotis

For APS-C size sensors, the IMX571 offered by ZWO, QHY, RisingCam/Altair/Touptek/Omegon, etc. is probably the best offered at the moment. N.F.

When setting up your HEQ5 mount, it helps to use an application like SynscanInit on your smartphone. It uses GPS in order to give you the correct place of Polaris in the polar alignment scope, and the correct parameters to enter into the handheld computer. After these two steps, a 2-star alignment should give you adequate accuracy when going from one target to another. Oh, and first align your finder scope with your main scope before doing the star align procedure. N.F.

Looks interesting. Do I understand correctly that you need a hydrogen-alpha (or CaK) filter as well behind the scope? N.F.

Hello everyone, I thought that these lower cost alternatives may deserve their own thread. For starters, here is the IMX571 colour version: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001359313736.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6f047164JGhOx6&algo_pvid=88c7fc7f-59b2-4b58-9bdc-a75b08237944&algo_exp_id=88c7fc7f-59b2-4b58-9bdc-a75b08237944-0 For anyone not knowing this manufacturer, it seems that they are building/rebadging their cameras for Altair, Omegon, Touptek. RisingCam is the Aliexpress brand. Here's also their monochrome version of the IMX571 sensor: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002673884516.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.72da375ci42NEM&algo_pvid=f85c57b9-b87b-4073-bdf1-45846acbece1&algo_exp_id=f85c57b9-b87b-4073-bdf1-45846acbece1-3 They have three tiers of cameras: non-cooled, cooled (simple air cooling) and TE two-stage cooling (some sensors exist in more than one category, so be careful of what you get). I have now a technical question: I have a nice collection of Canon EF lenses I would like to use with this sensor. Trouble is, RisingCam has a fixed backfocus of 17.5mm from the M42 mount to the sensor (same in the monochrome version). How could someone fit the Astromechanics adapter, a filter wheel and the 17.5mm backfocus of the camera into the 44mm required for Canon lenses? A typical filter wheel is 20mm, add the 17.5mm of the camera and there's only 6.5mm available for the adapter (which is 17mm in the M42 version *oops* ). The M42 version of the adapter is offered with a 9.5mm spacer, which can accept a 36mm filter. But I don't know if it's possible to find a filter wheel at such a thickness? A suitable filter drawer maybe? The ASI6200 version is "just" 11mm thick, that would leave 15.5mm for a filter wheel? A link to the adapter in its various versions: https://astromechanics.org/ascom.html N.F.

Usually, it's easier to sell your high value items separately. Some people will want the mount only, others the SCT only. Very few will want to buy the complete package as a single item. You could eg offer the SCT at 2000 GBP alone (plus handling/postage, if not going to pick up), the mount for 1000 GBP plus handling, and offer a reduced price for the bundle? (Numbers for illustrative purposes only 🙂 ) N.F.

The prices quoted for these NB filters sound much reasonable, if they can deliver regarding quality I would be sorely tempted to buy a monochrome camera... N.F.

I think that the Skywatcher reducer for the Esprit scopes covers up to APS-C sensor size? The maximum size scopes I would load on this mount would be a C11 (for planetary) or RASA11 (for DSO). A Skymax 180 or a CC8 should be easily handled by this mount. N.F.

Nice filter adapter. Could you do a similar system for cooled cameras with a 17.5mm backfocus? (I don't know what's the RASA backfocus spec) N.F.

I guess that you know it already, many RASA users curve the camera cables in order to avoid diffraction effects: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/681476-diffraction-minimizing-wiring-loom-for-rasahyperstar/ Best luck in your experiment. N.F.

Baader is promoting a new NB filter set, they call it "CMOS optimized" https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/filters/(ultra-)-narrowband-/-highspeed.html https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/new-baader-cmos-optimized-ultra-narrowband-and-highspeed-filters/ 6,5 nm Narrowband Filters, CMOS-optimized – for f/10 to f/3.5 6,5 nm f/2 Highspeed Filters, CMOS-optimized – for f/3.4 to f/1.8 3,5 / 4 nm Ultra-Narrowband Filters, CMOS-optimized – for f/10 to f/3.5 3,5 / 4 nm f/2 Ultra-Highspeed Filters, CMOS-optimized – for f/3.4 to f/1.8 If these work well, I may be tempted to go the monochrome route myself N.F.

Interesting technique (though I had a hard time discerning the menus and textboxes in my 14" screen of my laptop, I think that the big trick is setting the black point in order to eliminate the borders). What happens if there's also some rotation between the different scope images? Does registration account for this as well? N.F.

Typical pricing for used equipment (as a rough guide) would be around 65%, plus postage/handling (which is quite expensive, if you don't have the packaging stuff and good rates). Depends also on demand, because these days it may take months for delivery of brand new equipment, so you could easily reach 70% of regular sales price. N.F.

Beautiful. This was unguided, you say? What kind of mount achieves this? N.F.

My understanding is that halo happens mostly with NB filters. But I may be wrong. The filter package SHO at 6mm sounds like a good starting point for monochrome imagers who are in a tight budget (and I am tempted to add such a camera to my equipment). Waiting for user experiences (it's my understanding that these will start shipping in July) N.F.

Planets, moon, sun (with a suitable filter) are the obvious targets. Double stars are also very easy to separate in most cases (and to image), even in light polluted cities like Athens. A zoom eyepiece like the SVBONY 7-21mm is also a nice match with it (I am happy with it on my Skymax 180). For wide angle views, a 35mm or so 2" eyepiece should be fine. Or even a binoviewer (I haven't tried one, but many love the combination with the Skymax 180, as far as I know) N.F.

If you plan on building your own, Baader Astrosolar film is probably the best. It's available in A4 and larger sheets, which can be easily cut to various scope sizes. There are two versions: for observing (most safe) and for photography (more detail), select according to planned use. N.F.

I would like to recount my trip so far: Bought a Skymax 127 second hand, because the light pollution in home meant no capacity to see faint objects. Planets, moon and double stars are easily viewed, though. A Maksutov type scope offers a long focal distance and a contrasty view. And these are quite rugged and less fiddly than an RC or similar scope. I then bought a used HEQ5 mount, which is considered the most basic German equatorial mount for astrophotography. Still I haven't optimized it, but it offers a very stable platform for my Skymax 127. I bought a planetary imaging camera, which gave me nice shots of the lunar surface and the gas giants, and I added a Skymax 180 (which is rightfully termed a "planet killer" due to its very long focal distance). Now, I have an C9.25 SCT and I may experiment with both large scopes after the heat waves pass (yes, it works with the HEQ5 mount - barely - for planetary imaging). A focus motor makes life much more enjoyable. I am doing visual and planetary imaging for now only. For wide field astrophotography on this mount, I think that a 80ED or 102ED refractor will be quite pleasant. N.F.

For planetary/lunar details, you need a long focal distance. For me, the Skymax 180 is a very capable "planet killer", and the CC8 should be near it regarding focal distance (a bit more aperture). I dislike spider vanes myself (and open tube construction), so I went with the Skymax 180. The RC would be more suitable for DSO objects, if you manage collimating it (their design is quite sensitive to small diversions from ideal). The RC6 would offer a quite wider field of view. N.F.

I wouldn't invest in a new dSLR and conversion myself, as the cost starts approaching a cooled camera. Maybe if someone sold a used modified camera instead. ZWO and QHY are the bigger brands known in astro cameras in recent years, but there others like Touptek/RisingCam and old CCD-era companies like Atik, Moravian etc. It's been my understanding that having separate cameras for planetary imaging (non cooled) and deep sky objects (cooled) is ideal. For planetary imaging, the IMX462 and IMX464 sensors are considered among the best. For cooled cameras, it's color or monochrome sensors (and filters) and sensor size which separate the expensive from very expensive to obscenely expensive. For color cooled cameras, the IMX533 and IMX571 sensors are quite popular and latest technology (no amp glow, etc.). For monochrome, the IMX294m (really IMX492) offers two different resolutions, and the IMX571 mono is wonderful. There are also full frame sensors, but these are pricey beasts and require experience in getting the most out of them (large image circle, careful tilt checking/correction, huge image files to process, etc.) N.F.

If your budget affords it, I would suggest going one step up to the Skymax 127. At 1500mm focal distance, you will be filling your frame with the Moon/Sun on an APS-C camera. I was so happy with my Skymax 127, I went ahead recently for the "big Mac" Skymax 180 - tell me about overdoing it 🙂 The mount/tripod will be your limit to enjoyment. I bought a used HEQ5 Pro, because I like astrophotography, not only visual. But the Skymax 127 is perfectly usable with a smaller/lighter mount. Even a good camera tripod could be used in a pinch. N.F. PS. This video should be a useful comparison between the 102 and the 127 Maksutovs:

The Astromechanics adapter gives also accurate focusing and iris control with EF lenses. The standard model has a screw-on adapter for 36mm filters if you use it with an OSC camera (see bottom of page 5 here: https://astromechanics.org/downloads/ascom_ef/en/manual/controller_m42.pdf ) . If the camera had a backfocus of 6.5mm like the ZWO monochrome cameras (see page 4 of the PDF), I could fit in a filter wheel. Maybe Astromechanics could make a 9mm spacer/filter drawer, I don't know... N.F.

If it could work with Sharpcap or Firecapture, I would be happy to buy it as an alternative. N.F.

Yeah, I own an ASI462 myself already, else I would be quite tempted by the IMX464 N.F.

I wouldn't expect the SCT reducer to work well with a full frame sensor. Better to use an APS-C sensor instead, like a Canon 80D, from what I know. N.F.

Best of luck. I am eyeing this camera (or their mono version) as well, but I haven't done the jump yet (I would like to do first some planetary stuff with the IMX462C and learn guiding before embarking on this). Enjoy your new tool, N.F. PS. One major reason I didn't take the plunge yet is that both models have 17.5mm backfocus from the M42 to the sensor, and that makes problematic attaching both the camera and a filter wheel to the Canon EF lens adapter from Astromechanics (one possibility would be to use a screw-one 36mm filter adapter, but I would like a better way)