DaveL59

just be aware that prism tilt isn't the only collimation method, some use eccentric rings for example. Also worth checking after a bump that the prisms are in fact properly seated before you try adjusting the screws, one may have shifted and just need to be reseated.

if you get no luck there, then do you have a car battery smart charger? If so remove the battery and see if that can recover the situation. Lead batteries don't like being drained fully unless they're deep-cycle types which this almost certainly won't be. How old is the unit?

I'd terminate with a ring, solder it if you can, an anti-shake type washer between it and the surface you want to earth and then vasoline/silicone grease to protect it from moisture. Steel+aluminiun+copper will get you corrosion over time in damp environmetns, condensation may well induce it so worth protecting against. Also if the Aluminium/metal parts you are earthing are not directly coupled to each other, add a short earth strap between each of them if you want it all earth bonded. If you want to on-link to the PSU as well then you can get metal connector blocks for earthing so you can connect the earh rod line to that and then run links from the block to the relevant pieces of equipment. Worth protecting that in a box probably.

I'd say tho that OP will need to be sure to get the correct gland connectors for that socket so that the cable is properly secured and the IP-rating of the completed unit is maintained, esp if the plan is to hang that on the end of a trailing lead.

The older 1990's use 32mm as opposed to the modern 1.25 inch (31.5mm) eyepieces - I've a 1994 TAL-1 and TAL-M. From 1996-8 IIRC they are regular 1.25 inch. You can use a modern 1.25 inch EP on the older ones by either by using the barlow to get to focus, or my raising the primary mirror 25mm-ish by replacing the 6 screws and 3 springs that hold/adjust the mirror as I did on my TAL-1. Focuser range tho is limited compared to other newer makes like the SW130 I have which may limit the various range of EPs you can buy, tho the TAL ones are pretty decent. Believe the TAL-1 came with 25mm Plossl and 15mm Kellner and 2 or 3x barlow. If real lucky it'll also have the original wood shipping case. Also you can overhaul it if you're DIY incloned, AstroBaby's website details how 🙂

+1 for the manfrotto, quite a few come up at low price on the bay and are easily refurb'd and are very easy to adjust quickly. Just bear in mind that they need the larger 3/8" tripod screw to attach onto but you can get a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter if needed.

well done! Sometimes a little DIY can reap brilliant rewards

If you do attempt to strip it down, very carefully make marks on the metal rings before you loosen things so that you can correctly reposition and retain any alignment in approx the right place when you reassemble. It's possible the objective has eccentric rings under the securing ring to adjust collimation and it'll be something you'd need to adjust if they're significantly out of position on reassembly. Best you'll be able to get after will be to set the alignment to suit you which is fine, assuming you are the only user of this pair. You would of course lose the non-moist air purge they'd have originally had but if that's already failing it won't make much difference. Don't forget to treat the inner tube area and rings too, peroxide or mild bleach should kill off any trace and let things dry thoroughly. Perhaps sit the open tube over a silica gel sachet for a day/overnight before reassembly to absorb moisture too. When reassembling and closing up try doing it in a dry air (cool) environment which will reduce fogging up issues in use later.

As nobody else has mentioned it so far, does this model have a lens at the end of the focus drawtube (Bird-Jones) and is it still in place and the right way up? I concur with comments about collimation as it didn't look quite right from an earlier image and if modified for imaging that would also affect the focus point. Hopefully once sorted you'll get to enjoy the scope and views of the night sky.

either would probably be fine, just depends on how stable you can hand-hold and/or how easily they can be mounted to a mono/tripod. Also what's the FoV, are they wide enough for what you want to do with them? Larger aperture objective may catch more light but for roofs there's a physical limit at IIRC 56mm, porro types can go larger hence some are 60+mm, but of course bulkier. The high-end of either tend to have good coatings etc so do give great views.

I'd agree, esp being in an exposed environment with potential for dew. Worth getting some dielectric grease and give each connector a smear to reduce the effects. Beware tho, silicone grease on your fingers can get messy when handling optics afterwards so gloves you can then dispose of or cleaning wipes after hooking up...

I use a pair of Minolta 10x50 classic sport WP with 6.6 degree FoV and quite like them, esp at the bargain used price of £22 that I paid for them I think generally porro, tho bulky by comparison, will give a brighter image vs roofs at a similar price point. For roof you want dielectric coating on the prisms if going above 8x and costs start to mount. That said the hensolt jagd's 6x42 and Nikon sportstar EX 8x25 do pretty well at night. Best way would be to try a pair you like really that suit your personal needs and tastes, problem is getting a loaner pair to try at night. For sure try for a pair that are waterproof to avoid fogging issues.

loading example in the spec is: Duration of Operation: About 2 hours at 68 Deg temperature and a 4.4 lb loading with use of alkaline batteries Operating Temperature: 0 deg to 40 deg C shame they don't give a max load unless its in a user manual for the ploarie? Did find this which may help Polarie Upgrade Kits If you already own a Vixen Polarie Star Tracker, the upgrade kits are a great way to get more from your mount. Both kits include all components required to increase the maximum payload of the Polarie from 2kg to 6.5kg.

might not help for long as you'll create a roughened surface and the oxide can bed in easier. Perhaps cover the metal with a laminate (or replace with) would be a better long-term fix. I doubt coating the metal with epoxy or lacquer or similar would work as it'd be hard to get an even layer that would last so not sure if there's a quick fix there either. Stainless steel maybe?

Aluminium is covered with a thin oxide as it corrodes very quickly in air and that could well be what is rubbing off as you rotate the unit on the guides. That oxide may well have become embedded in the blocks (teflon perhaps) and that'll set up a friction surface that will continue to grind against the aluminium surface, compounding the effect. Probably not going to be easy to sort without removing a layer off the bearing edge of the block or replacing them, but someone else that has similar may be able to advise better.

Problem with your 7AH lead battery tank is that you'll quickly see volt drop if you try to run the laptop, given it'll draw >2A most likely and then the mount will be complaining about low volts. You really don't want to be running a lead battery down to 50% if you want it to last any time before it expires completely and needs replacing, unless its a deep-cycle one which it won't be in one of these. A 17AH you'd have a reasonable chance but even then the volt drop would still be there, a LiFePo would be way better for this type of use but are expensive in the short term. Looks like your PSU does indeed have a sense (signal) pin as well as +/- and probably not easy to get one to wire up which adds difficulty. Now the sense pin may just be to kick the PSU into life or might be needed by the PC to activate the charge circuits, as in it accepts a valid PSU is connected up. HP I think call it smart-sense or something like that. Alternative may be to set the laptop power plan to low and dim the screen, disable bluetooth etc so you're only running the components you need and where poss avoid powering USB peripherals. Better perhaps is if the battery is removable see if there's an aftermarket long-run one available. IIRC they used to do a base you could connect that had a battery in it for some models, not cheap tho.

unfortunately its usually powering rather than charging that takes all the current load, even on low power mode and with the screen set v dim it'll be pulling a reasonable amount of current. Ideally you'd want to turn off/disable all devices you ain't using like wifi/bluetooth etc just to save a bit more juice.

be sure to have the mains extension served by an RCD

likelihood is that'd drain a 7AH battery pretty fast. Not sure if a buck converter stepping 12v to 20v at 7-10A would do but also depends a lot on the connector at the laptop end. Some of these PSU's have a sense connector as well as +/- terminals and that may cause issues. Running an inverter to get to 240v off the battery so you can use the OEM PSU would also flatten the 7AH fast so not worth doing. Can you not get an extended-run battery for the laptop instead?

Mine are Minolta 10x50 6.6 degree FoV tripod or monopod mounted tho I don't really enjoy the neck ache so much lol. Do have a garden chair that tilts back but not really used that so much. Other bins are Hensoldt Jagd dialyt 6x42 circa 1945, Foton & swift trilyte 7x35 among others of same format, a couple 10x50 ZCF type vintage japanese, Nikon Sportstar 8x25, several mini reverse porro type from 5x15 to 15x50 (one being a 6x20 Starlux Minim circa 1950's or earlier I think). All told around 27 pairs! plus a few spares/repairs. Madness 😮

can't help on that one but best to post it in the appropriate section such as Discussion - cameras where it'll more get noticed welcome aboard btw

has to be remembered too that not all of us are using more modern compression ring fitted gear so I guess the undercuts could be around for a while yet. as for hammer and screwdriver to the oil filter, yeah I tried that one time on a stubborn one, wouldn't shift. so chain filter wrench and the old-style torque wrench and... at an off the scale 140+ lbs/ft the filter moved... just as the chain broke! Never let an ovlov garage service an alfa is all I can say (by the PO not me).

ahh memories James, and of dropping the slippery oil filter and of course it falls into the drained oil and covers you

I have now a tal-1 (110mm) and the SW130EQ2 and to be honest I don't see a huge difference between them image-wise. You may be able to tease out a little more detail in the 130 but it doesn't seem a huge leap. More experienced users can likely give a more informed opinion tho as I'm fairly new to scopes, depends on your expectations and the quality of the 114 you're thinking to move up from. Should ask too, visual or are you thinking photography as the 150 would likely be a lot better for the latter tho it'd need a decent mount to go with it.

funnily enough I was thinking to do the same with the C270 I have sitting around, after I've had a play with the mini IP CCTV module the nosepiece is currently fitted to. The adaptor I have came with a screw-on 1.25-in IR filter but not really had much change to do any testing so far.