DaveL59

different scope but similar reason for doing it (eyepiece focus rather than camera but same principle) a post or so above I'd listed the bits I got to do it but of course these could well be different on yours. This thread may also help Seems the magic number is around 20mm shift of the mirror but you'd need to check the existing screws can accomodate that. Also if you'd then like to use it for visual you'd need an extension tube.

its a procedure you'd want to do in daylight I think as it can be fiddly to get just-so. Of course knowing how far you need to shift it is key, then getting the longer bolts and springs to achieve it, usually easy enough to order online and get hold of in a few days. Then you'd need to collimate the rig and if you've some far distant views to test on that can help too, though with the moon visible in daytime you may well be able to confirm against that while its still easy to see what you're doing.

ahh this pastime sure does teach patience but it'll be rewarded in the end

I don't know that scope but I'd not wind the adjusters too much without knowing how far you need to move the mirror and then check that the existing ones are long enough, you might also need longer springs so the mirror moves with the bolt adjustments. If you can remove the whole mirror cell then you'd be able to assess the bolts/springs and get an idea how far you might be able to adjust things vs the expected shift you're looking for. Others with more knowledge of this scope are bound to appear with less generic advice but for sure be cautious in the meantime.

I've given it a go and it seems to be ok on the EQ5 mount I have, pretty sure I picked up on it from another post on here so might be better to post on this thread and solicit response from a wider audience The polar align is in beta but seems to work, for sure better than nowt if you can't see polaris. Does a 3-star align not get you to better finding ability once done, as that should get the system pretty close to knowing its location/orientation relative to the stars I thought. With your scope being a Dob (unless I'm mistaken?) not sure how you'd use it tho, perhaps laying it on the OTA? Hence suggesting posting as someone else may be using it on similar gear to yours.

yeah, once I've dealt with the family duties that have to take precedence over anything at the mo, I can hopefully fit it in before I'm back to work in a couple days.

just came across this, didn't even know it was going on, might have to go take a peek if I can fit it in amongst more pressing family things I need to attend to https://www.kentonline.co.uk/medway/news/moon-exhibition-draws-huge-crowds-222956/

placing them in a sealed bag with silica gel sounds a reasonable suggestion and if you can suck the air out that may assist further, alternatively rice has been used to good effect when salvaging phones in the past too (not cooked tho ). That way you're drawing moisture out in an environment that not additional moisture can enter. A dehumidifier should also work but may take time as it'll be trying to draw the moisture out of the room too. At 10 years, possibly a seal is perishing a little or a shift in the mated components from thermal effects perhaps and its allowed ambient air to creep in and raised the humidity level a little inside the casing. No idea how water resistant these are given there's a battery so perhaps not sealed at all in that area?

have you tried out the app that can help you polar align by laying the phone on the mount? Polar Aligner Pro - it has a mode where you can do the align in daylight hours which can be handy if you're wanting to set up early and leave things to cool down ready for the nights fun

hehehe I'll be telling family to go sit far from me tomorrow too 😉

hope you're gonna self-isolate now Stu, was a confirmed covid-19 case in that area according to the news! 😮

if the main tube screws into the main body then that could've jumped a thread and be slightly offset, that'd throw the images out of line for sure. Might be worth laying a marker (masking tape) on the barrel and body then unscrew it and carefully screw it back so it is correctly threaded and tightened up. The markers should align once done. Then re-check but if that was the cause you will have to re-adjust the prisms as they'll be out of place. Am guessing they're not a unibody? Can't find ASA when I google the description so can only guess at the shape/build.

definitely worth having a play in daylight and you can practise the alignment routine so you get familiar with it before trying it in the dark. No need to see stars, just adjust at each one and let the mount do its thing. Of course you'd have to select blind and the stars it'll choose may seem odd compared to what you'll expect at night since those stars you'd look for normally are likely below the horizon, just have a check in your fave sky map app for what's up at the time you're playing oh and remember, end the adjustment with up and right (IIRC) before confirming it

is the powertank actually putting out 12v, as in have you checked with a meter? and also check it wile it has a load attached. I assume the red LED is blinking on the SynScan also? I run mine either mains or via a LiPo pack through a 12v buck converter and it works fine, but then I first got it and tried a couple of used 17AH lead batteries they failed to do much for more than a minute or so. But then these had a failing cell so wasn't too surprised after they'd served 3+ years in UPS by then. If you have a 12v regulated supply available then worth trying that and see if it sorts things, the type CCTV cameras come with will work fine, only needs to be 2A capable for slewing, <1A for powering up and slow adjustments.

if you're worried that it might be fungus then an easy way to kill it off is to expose to UV/sunlight, tho not directly at the sun of course. 20 mins or more depending on how sunny a day it is but do monitor so the sun doesn't track round and cause problems This won't remove it but at least arrest it spreading, tho bear in mind too that you'll be opening the OTA regularly for use and that'll expose the innards to whatever is floating about in the night air, so you can never fully prevent things settling on the mirror over time.

sounds like a great buy, well done! For sure it's worth travelling for the right scope, I drove kent to coventry for my Tal100RS and don't regret it at all. Luckily I picked up the others I have locally so it definitely is worth looking around to see what's about.

not sure if its the same as on mine, but you might have to set the switch to S(outh) rather than N(orth) to get it to track in the right direction. Will depend I guess on where the motor is fitted but being EQ2 and from that pic, looks the same as my SW130EQ2 setup. For sure it makes for more relaxed time viewing as you're not having to tweak the adjusters and maybe finding you induce wobble in the long OTA.

or just for fun, suggest one of these to her https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NPZ-TAL-35-Newton-telescope-souvenir/184188387873?hash=item2ae27bc221:g:yjQAAOSwnuxeV5FZ

How about going vintage tho, something like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAL-M-80mm-3in-Newtonian-Reflector-Telescope/223928563928?hash=item34232eb8d8:g:-XAAAOSwNBleVqi1 manual tracking but if set to EQ mode you'd only need to move the RA control as you swap user. Sadly this one's got a broken tube ring and no clue what the reserve is but it seems to be complete incl the original wood shipping box and given it's wee size they're not bad at all. Only thing I've not managed to source for my one is the extension tube, parts ain't so easy to come by and the broke ring might be fixable to add security to the tube when fitted. Eyepieces are non-standard 32mm rather than modern 1.25-inch. These aren't light tho esp in the box, but that does make it easy to pack away and pop into the boot of the car

to add to what Joe has said re going EQ mount, if your wife and daughter plan on watching together and swapping at the eyepiece to share the view of something, a tracking mount will at least keep the object reasonably well in-frame rather than the second person at the eyepiece having to track around to find it again.

Yeah wasn't sure as I do have a Zenith that has the tripod screw in the hinge end which I was surprised by, but other ones didn't. Hence thought it might be worth a mention just in case

The one I got was branded Yaber off amazon, 20Ah capacity if I recall correctly

good plan to hard-wire to the battery, saves accidentally getting the terminals mixed up in the dark I went with a LiPo jump-start pack as its so much lighter/more compact and that works ok, but check what the max power-draw is on the 12v output and also the min as some apparently can shut off the output if the drain is too low. I added a buck converter tho since open circuit it was reading >15v and I didn't fancy risking the GoTo boards. Now it gives a stable 12v and the mount seems quite happy. If you do stay with lead batteries, the leisure type is a far better option than car or small SLA's. Another choice is LiFePo tpes, much lighter and safer than LiPo but quite pricey.

my 100RS is on an EQ5 now with GoTo added tho I do keep an eye out for one of these mounts from time to time. Funds and other priorities have kept me away from the buy button so far, but one day... Of course you'll have set the kids high expectations when they come to go buy their own gear with that setup, unless they're lucky enough to acquire it as a gift

bear in mind from a post earlier that the screw may well be 12v +ve rather than the 0v rail, hence a short when you touch an earthed item to the mount body. You'll need to trace the 2 pins along the board and try to determine which is earth (likely one goes to the -ve on one of the capacitors and then onward from there).