Laurin Dave

Good plan.. if you didn’t know take flats as you adjust it as you’ll see the shadow .. move it in so you can see it then move out until it disappears .. will be well within the corrected circle.. enjoy the clear skies Dave

Hi Steve, So long as they don’t look like baked beans on the imaging camera and it guides ok it should be ok.. a bit surprising though as it’s supposed to have a 33mm flat field .. What imaging camera are you using ?

Mine’s piggybacked and uses shims for alignment.. but I have an OAG on the 150 otherwise there’s be nowhere for the guide scope

Just read you’re sending it back

Esprit100.. 550mm fl, 40mm diameter flat field .. might be a bit heavy for a JTD saddle though .. what happened with the Sharpstar?

Make sure you put the shutter drive on before putting the dome on the walls .. its almost impossible to put the top pulley on when the dome's on as the shutter is in the way

Congratulations Goran.. the fabulous Balrog .. Dave

I got one a couple of years ago and it works fine.. there was an issue with SGPro asking for radius when it wanted diameter (or vice versa.. I can’t remember now) but after they fixed that about 18 months back it’s been great.. follows the scope perfectly before and after flip. A friend did have a problem with the display which failed quickly and needed a replacement which took quite a while to arrive . Also important to make sure the top of the base is flat and perfectly round before putting the dome on otherwise it’ll bump and bang when slewing ( as another friend has found) which can annoy the neighbours Dave

Here's my attempt trying to recreate what it looks like in RGB which I did with the following blend.. Ha to Red, 50%Oiii, 50%Sii to Green and Oiii to Blue. Channels stretched individually in Pixinsight using the Screen Stretch and Histogram functions then combined using PixelMath. Exported to Photoshop for colour adjustments, a bit of noise reduction and repair work around Gamm Cass, then back to Pixinisight for LHE, star reduction and MMT sharpening. Dave

Mine updated the other day without me realising really.. I just clicked on the update button.. First time using it I couldn't figure out how to get it to use Master Darks and Master Flats as the switch for that had gone.. turns out if you rename them with "Master...." in their name it works..

Stunning image Peter.. Dave

Nice one Richard.. quite amazing given the neighbours lights... looks like light trespass to me Dave

I was surprised too but the Nikon fit version of the Samyang 135 has 4 screws and is a different diameter to the M42 adapter

Don't know the answer but not a silly question at all, as I found out, I have a Nikon fit one and the threaded adapter doesn't fit. Different number of holes and spacing..

Software interfaces with Nina etc.. seem to crop up a lot, particulalry as Jonk says around MF and mount limits.

Thanks Adam... star colour, my guess is biggish pixels... but I also use HSVrepair, ArcSinh and Masked stretch in Pixinsigght Thanks Dave.. Thanks Adam Thank you.. Thanks Peter.. Thank you Carole.. I use 10 minute RGB subs on the SX-46 CCD, sky quality is Bortle 4.5 or so. Thank you ... Dave

Two panel mosaic of IC405 The Flaming Star Nebula, IC 410 The Tapoles Nebula plus IC417 The Spider and NGC1931 The Fly in Auriga. Imaged through my Esprit100/SX46 GT71/ASI1600mm over 9 sessions between late November and early February. 3hrs Red, 2.5 hrs Green and Blue, 25hrs Ha (as the moon was virtually ever present when it was clear) and 3.5 hrs Oiii. Processed in Pixinsight APP and Photoshop. To enhance the Flaming Star's reflection nebula I also added in 3 hrs each of Blue and Green taken last January with my Esprit150. Thanks for looking Dave

If you're not already doing so try using the ASCOM drivers, this allows for 2 ASI cameras to be used

Very nice Goran... I've had a go at this but weather and Bortle 4/5 have made it rather a difficult one... I'd imagine that the Blue is reflection rather than a discrete mass of almost pure Oiii.. Dave

Hi Goran Its in "Script" .... "Mosaic" ... then there are three scripts "Photometric Mosaic" " SplitMosaic Tile" and "Trim Mosaic Tile*.. There's a very good Helpfile top get you started .. But in short.. you a) Plate Solve each integration... use the "Mosaic by Co-ordinates" script (in Script.. Utilities) to register everything .. Trim each tile to remove any edge effects caused by registering ... then use the Photometric mosaic to join it all together.. I've found it works well. Dave

Another excellent image Goran.. How did you do the stitching? The new Photometric Mosaic script is worth looking at. Dave

Very nice Graham, you 've caught M78 and a bit of Barnard's Loop as well. Dave

You’re welcome.. I have two of them a 100 and a 150 both great scopes and thinking about getting the reducer for the 150..

Neil, you need either the flattener or the reducer (which also flattens) ... if it were me I'd get the reducer to go with that scope and camera, it will have a fov 1.7 times as big (and will get all of M42 Running Man etc) still have a good pixel scale of 1.2 arcsec/pp which is fine for galaxies and will also be a faster system.. Maybe trickier to get backfocus set up but QHY do a very good set of spacers for this purpose.. HTH Dave

Yes... that what I was told for a chip the size of an Atik460..