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About Tomatobro

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    Star Forming

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  1. I think you are ok. My EQ6-R clutches slip a bit as I carry the head around. This has happened many times and all works as it should.
  2. The audience was made up of folks who in the main only have a casual interest in astronomy but enough interest to come to an astronomy club. I explained that these images were made by an amateur and not by a professional astronomer. In this case the questions came after each image and they were typically what is that called and how far away is it. In case it gets shown again I was going to identify and research on each so I could answer on the spot. I think that adding on screen data would detract from its visual impact even though there is some on screen text in places. The showing was very spontaneous so I was not able to do any preparation beforehand.
  3. The only thing I will do for next time is to prepare a script as folks asked me what the object was and how far away and I stumbled a bit on a few of them.
  4. I showed your video at last nights astronomy club and all were very impressed.........
  5. A few light days I think....................
  6. Moths flying around the scope will reflect the ir. My problem is a bit bigger with the bats chasing them for dinner. But not in the depths of winter
  7. one of the great joys of CMOS is the ability to have ultra short exposures during the star hopping calibration stage. Moving the scopes cross hairs and seeing stars and DSO's moving across the screen in real time speeds up the set up time no end. In particular the EQMOD circular search is very effective.
  8. I have just read your post and tried to follow what you have done and it seems to me that swapping the connectors has eliminated the hand set and the board. Switching the drive output over tested the buttons and the driver so my guess is that is that you have a motor problem. Looking at the wiring going to the motor it looks like a DC motor (the two wires on their own and the multi connector a positional encoder. If you have a multimeter then I would disconnect the two wires either side of the motor and check for continuity across the motor connections and see if its open circuit. It might just be a stuck brush so a sharp tap on the side of the motor might unstick it.......you never know you might be lucky. Best I can suggest
  9. two drops of condensation moving due to gravity on the flip? I don't know but just throwing out ideas
  10. Having spent years working with and designing instruments that use micro processors the one thing I have learnt is that most start up issues are the result of how the power is applied. This falls into two areas. One is the power supply and the second is how the power is applied. If the power is applied by pushing in a socket there is a good chance that the power will apply and disconnect many times during this action and can impact on the start up of the circuit. If at all possible connect everything up first then apply power via a good quality switch. On the power supply having some headroom on the current output vs. requirement is a help as charging capacitors etc place an initial load during connection. Its true that modern processors have inbuilt start up procedures to allow for stabilisation but they can be defeated. Probably that is why the problems only occur now and again. microprocessors live in a different world to the rest of us mere mortals
  11. I monitor the environment in my warm room using a EL-Win temperature and humidity monitor. I recently added one low level 60 mm circular vent and one 60 mm vent at high level (one each end). The shed is a 3 x 5. There are various small gaps and I thought that they would give enough ventilation but the data shows the effect of the 60 mm vents on humidity.
  12. It might run under a windows emulator. On this laptop I have some Windows software that runs ok. Also take a look at http://www.distroastro.org/hardware/ I see Cannon EOS is listed under camera support
  13. see the switch marked start in the middle. just press where its gone to sleep and the little led lower down will light back up. Pressing the mode button changes the led from red to green but either mode works hope that helps there is a teaching mode in ascom that lets you set up what each button does but not all are recognised by ascom
  14. I paid £12 each for two wireless gamepads and both work fine. I have the receiver on an extended usb lead with it positioned high up in the roof and reliable operation is about 8 metres. Watch out for the gamepad going to sleep if not used for a while. I have the switches and pads set up for RA/DEC, E stop, four slew speeds, Park/Unpark and all confirmed via ascom voice files. Can post a picture of the gamepad if required
  15. Tomato's camera will do mono16 Fits whereas mine just drops frames and will only do mono8. With mono16 it just drops frames continuously. We tried both cameras on the same laptop, Sharpcap 3.2 and the same usb lead. There must be differences between different vintages of ASI120 cameras I guess. I think Tomato used mono8 fits for this image.
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