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Everything posted by Shibby

  1. Great job capturing something so faint with heavy light pollution. It's Bortle 5 where I am but heading for 6 with new developments.
  2. Super effort, super image. You've done well do present a large dynamic range, deal with all those stars and everything else going on!
  3. Looking great, will be interesting to see how/if you combine it.
  4. Not having much other data to play with, I thought I'd reprocess this. I've only done the Hα as this is clearly the best data - perhaps I'll get some improved Oiii in the future. I've uploaded a larger image and also flipped it the right way around (looks weird after staring at it in reverse for so long!) Maybe it's not that different now I compare, but the stars are improved I think? Here's the direct link to the large size image: The NGC7000 Wall in Hα
  5. Very nice - excellent, strong colour!
  6. Nice work! Good to see you managed this with budget equipment. I've been trying my hand a photometry recently, although I haven't posted anything on SGL. (Photometry normally goes in this forum though: https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/52-observing-and-imaging-double-and-variable-stars/ ) I've been using this transit finder: https://astro.swarthmore.edu/transits.cgi
  7. I agree with the above - I suspect you have "Apply adjustments to the saved image" selected in DSS. It's a radio button in the "Save As" dialog. If you're lucky, you may find the original (unadjusted) stacks on your HDD named "Autosave.tif".
  8. Struggled most of the night with guiding issues (poor seeing?) Eventually, turned it off and was delivered perfect 10min unguided subs! ?‍♂️

  9. Well, yes, you can virtually never have enough data - 5 is very limited. 16 is a good starting point, as that enables you to stack with sigma rejection in DSS, which really brings the noise down. Other than that, careful processing can bring out more details using iterative curve adjustments. Aim not to "clip" the levels at the black end, otherwise the faint nebulosity gets lost. There are plenty of good tutorials out there, so it'd be better to read some of those than have me ramble on about it
  10. Thanks - I shall give that a go this evening to see if it helps! I feel a reformat coming... Although, I dread making things worse while it's (sort of) working!
  11. Simply amazing! The Ha has added so much extra, fine structure - it just looks stunning.
  12. Good luck! Hopefully the issues are limited to Win7 64 bit. I did contact them on Friday but as yet have had no response. I'm not too concerned at the moment anyway, having got things working okay-ish with the old software.
  13. It certainly did! Brilliant work, well done. Best viewed at you original size on Flickr.
  14. Awesome image, especially considering how very faint it is.
  15. Ridiculously good for you first attempt at astrophotography. It took me a long time before I got images anywhere near that quality!
  16. I'll definitely give APT a try (would this use the ASCOM drivers?) I used to use APT when I imaged with a DSLR some time ago and liked it then! I've also been meaning to try out NINA at some point, which is developed by a member of an Astrophotography Discord.
  17. So I uninstalled everything and reverted to the software/drivers on the CD. I think it's named "Atik Software 2.5". Now Artemis Capture recognises the camera again! It still refuses to recognise the EFW2, but I am at least able to control it from FilterWheelRunner still. Not sure I dare tinkering any further..! Bit of a shame I can't use the latest software or set up sequences with different filters, but at least I'm back in business! Thanks again for all the help.
  18. Okay, I think I'll be coming back to this tomorrow! The good news is, my laptop is now booting and I've sorted out my power cable for the FW. Everything now shows correctly in device manager, but Artemis Capture is still failing to detect both camera + FW, even though the FW is detected elsewhere such as "FilterWheelRunner" I've already tried 3 different versions of the Atik software, so I'll try another (older) one tomorrow and see if that helps. Anyway, thanks for the help - I'll update if I get any further.
  19. All my kit is powered from a bench supply, the cable from which runs to the mount. From there, I have DC distribution with everything fused separately. It's all worked flawlessly until now! (The old FW was USB only). Good idea...
  20. Well I wish I'd left the software alone, now my laptop won't even boot! ?
  21. Hi Carole, Yeah everything seems fine and correct with the camera until I open up Artemis capture, so I'm currently in the process of installing an old version of the software/drivers. The software is all that's changed in respect to the camera. The FW doesn't seem to rotate when I connect it, no, so chances are the power cable I made up is faulty, or the fuse - I will test it with camera's power cable, after I've (hopefully) got that working again! It's pretty painful as this step seems to take forever, each time I install the Atik software. It's already been about 10 minutes:
  22. Hi Carole, Thanks so much for the information, it's a massive help! I'm currently sat in the obsy trying to figure everything out. The EFW doesn't appear to show at all in device manager like it does for you, so I reckon there might be something wrong with my cabling. The camera is showing correctly, but Artemis still cannot detect it - I've found somewhere on the web with previous versions and I'm going to try gradually rolling back the drivers until something happens! Thanks, Lewis
  23. That's brilliant - thanks @carastro and @tooth_dr Hah, so they are - about 35 minutes away from me. I should do that!
  24. Thanks @red dwalf. I should have been a bit clearer, the EFW2 is an Atik FW but still isn't being detected in Artemis. I'll try rolling back the driver for the camera, though, and hopefully at least get that working again...
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