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wuthton last won the day on July 29 2014

wuthton had the most liked content!

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About wuthton

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    Cleckheaton, West Yorkshire, UK
  1. I was part of a couple of previous discussions on this subject. The bottom line was when the laws of physics are applied, having the weights as close to the mount as possible is preferable but in the real world you'd never discern the difference.
  2. My Zotac has 4gb of ram which is plenty for long exposure image capture but I'm not sure about planetary, it's well over 12 years since I've tried it.
  3. Marmo, The Zotac with Windows 10 Pro, PHD and Sequence Generator Pro is superb, it's never skipped a beat, bomb proof but comparatively expensive. I haven't used the Raspberry Pi (Kstars and Ekos) in the wild yet for various reasons but it does look very, very promising for a portable rig that I'm planning. You do need to be semi-confident with Linux command line to run the install scripts but it's not particularly difficult. I'm sure if you start a topic plenty people will chip in. I've only .... so far.... touch wood.... sacrificed one PC to the gods of unexpected snow. I have painted some tin foil black and taped it over the vent holes in the top of the Zotac, just in case.
  4. Your 250pds is a beautiful scope but it's not your friend for narrowband imaging. The focal length literally magnifies even the slightest jiggle and it's physical size makes those jiggles more likely to happen, guided or not. Beautifully crafted optics with perfect colour correction are wasted on narrowband imaging, if focused you could take a great image through the bottom of a jam jar but what it does require is time and no jiggles. Narrowband filters are expensive and the shorter the bandpass the more expensive they get. At longer focal lengths the difference between cheaper and more expensive filters becomes much more pronounced, you get beautiful tight stars with some Astrodons and comparatively bloated stars with 7nm Baaders. Conversely at shorter focal lengths and wider fields of view the differences are greatly reduced. You only need to buy the filter size recommend for your camera, buying any bigger is a waste of money. My Atik 314 has a tiny chip so only requires 1.25", My Moravian G2 has a bigger, KAF-8300 chip, I can get away with 31mm without any vignette. I've only ever used CCD cameras but if I were buying a camera today I'd be giving the current crop of CMOS some lusty glances. You can get similar results to a CCD but with shorter exposures, less time then less chance of jiggles. Your integration time is similar to CCD but made up of more but shorter exposures. If you're managing a minute at 1.2m then you'll manage and age unguided if you reduce your focal length. Beg, borrow or steal a prime camera lens with a manual aperture ring (Pentax Super Takumar fit well) and add a cooled, mono CMOS camera with a cheap Ha filter, strap it to your HEQ5 and point it at Orion for 2 minuites, you won't be disappointed.
  5. I just thought Id share my experience because I fixed my wheel more by luck than management and it might happen to someone else. I was testing a new setup using a Raspberry Pi (Kstars, Indi, Ekos) with an Xagyl Filter wheel. Plugged the filter wheel in, it calibrated and then died. Tried it on windows machine (Ascom, SGP), still dead. I assumed the motor had given up as it appeared to be trying but no movement. I then tried a second Xagyl filter wheel and the same thing happened which is when I smelt a rat. The filter wheel speed was set to zero in the Indi driver, this was a fresh install, I certainly hadn't changed the setting. I don't know how the settings are saved on the wheel or the initialisation procedure but before the speed was changed in the Indi driver, the Ascom driver wouldn't recognise or connect to the wheel. Once the speed was turned up all was good again, Indi and Ascom.
  6. When I sell anything online I think it is polite to reply to offers as soon as possible, Stu has a differing opinion. If you want waste a couple of days, put an offer in on one of these items.
  7. I'd ditch the guidescope rings altogether, they're not necessary at all and can cause headaches. Hopefully your dad has the tube rings that came with the ST80, just use those. Enjoy it, that's nice setup and it's going to be clear tomorrow.
  8. Very true, if the want to they'll get in. A brick built observatory, I'd be through the wall in 2 minutes with a sledge. Photo - electric beam sensors are the business or if you have a second shed with nothing of real value in, leave the door unlocked but alarm it. They'll try first every time. Anything to deter or alarm before they put a wreaking bar to use.
  9. I've used an on mount mini pc for years and I couldn't recommend it highly enough. My personal choice was a Zotac CI320 but there's now much newer models available in the CI series. I chose it purely because it had 6 usb ports and therefore I could wave bye bye to hateful usb hubs. A secondary bonus was a massive improvement to guiding as the number of cables going to the floor is a fraction of before resulting in less cable drag and less chance of a snag. They are barebones so you need to cost in an SSD, ram and a Windows Pro license key. Edit: Have you looked at a Raspberry Pi 4 with Indi, Kstars and Ekos. I'm just starting to have a play with it but I'm yet to find a weakness?
  10. If you're running 240v to your mount then I'd highly recommend one of these. Neat, convenient and reasonably safe. https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-weatherproof-box-kit/46169
  11. Backfocus and aperture rings are tricky. Don't touch Nikon lenses, the aperture springs open when you take it off the dslr body. Canons are a minefield for compatibility. There's not enough backfocus for a filter wheel, you must take the lens off and screw the filter into the lens adapter. If anyone can say this is false, I'd be forever grateful. It's not a huge problem for me as I never change filter during a session.
  12. How much light pollution are you battling? If it's low then you're a lucky sod and ignore the following but if it's high you will go down the road of narrowband imaging very quickly. With high levels of light pollution you're better off spending on your camera and filters (imo) than on the glass as the colour correction is neither here nor there. Below is one of my efforts with an 85mm Samyang camera lens, Baader 7nm filters and an Atik 314l under Bortle 6 skies. The whole of which can be picked up for less than an Esprit. There's also some much, much better efforts here with the 135mm.
  13. I'd highly recommend the Zotac Ci series as they have 6 usb ports so you can avoid troublesome hubs. I've had an on mount Ci320 for a couple of years with zero regrets. An unexpected bonus is an improvement to guiding as you massively reduce the number of cables going to the floor and the drag that goes with them. Get an ssd, mine's quite small as all images are saved to Onedrive and then cut and pasted to my in house PC the following day.
  14. I tortured myself over polar alignment when I first started out but you'll quickly start to think "it's so easy how can newcomers not grasp this?" The infinite patience of many on this forum is what makes it marvelous. I'm currently licking my wounds from asking a question on a Linux forum.
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