Adam J

You honestly dont need anything more than the 50mm mate, all you will do is make it heavy and if you can keep the weight down you will have no reason to need to upgrade the heq5.

I would say that a smaller 50mm guide scope does not need to be as ridged as the forces placed onto it are so much less than a larger heavier scope and hence it flexes less not because its rigid but just because it has less mass.

Looks like the WO one is not in stock anyway.

I will be buying an esprit 100 soon 95% for astro photography, but for the other 5% when I just fancy it I was wanting a wide field eyepiece for comfortable viewing of things like M45, M42 open clusters etc I guess I want to see the object in its setting if that makes any sense. I am asking for nothing too taxing I hope. I don't want to be spending a very large amount ~£150 as its going to be used sporadically at best. Hoping that someone can give me some options and why? I would prefair to purchase with my scope so something from FLO unless there is a good reason to look else ware. Adam

Its specifically that model, hope you get it working.

It was more of a comment than a suggestion.

The thing I would note here is that QHY would see to have a better reliability record with the larger sensors than ZWO, there is a new full frame coming out from both makes, I would be considering the QHY if it was me irrespective of it costing more.

Well as you know I own a ASI1600mm pro and I love it. Its just not easy to get a flat field on it with my 130PDS. The same will be true of a 150PDS.

No you will still get tilt in my experience if using a ASI1600mm pro and filter wheel on that focuser, its too heavy, If nothing else the weight actually causes the focuser to flex slightly relative to the tube. A baader click lock will help remove any wobble in the actual connection to the coma corrector but all in all the focuser and the scope are not sufficiently stiff. This is why people pay lots of money for upgraded focusers. Its not going to stop the camera giving you nice results all I am saying is don't expect nice round stars all the way into the corners unless you are willing to make some modifications.

I was thinking more of the 178, I have seen amazing detailed galaxy images with it and IMX290 using short exposure method in both cases. Alot of it is to do with having very low read noise and a smaller sensor to allow vast numbers of subs to be collected at very short exposures. Adam

That is really nice to know. No point in having a great scope if the flattner is letting it down.

No the click lock will work on the 150pds but not the 130pds.

To answer this you really need to know what type of targets you want to image. Because it matters for sensor selection. The asi1600mm pro is great but with your scopes focal length it's not really going to give wide field views of emission nebula. A friend uses his 150pds for detailed looks at smaller targets like the bubble nebula or Cresent or galaxy imaging. The other thing you will want to be aware of is that the focuser will not support a asi1600mm pro and filter wheel without some droop / flex and so it's hard to get good corners, from my personal experience with the 130pds. A smaller higher resolution sensor will be easier and more suited to imaging smaller targets in detail. For example you will get very good results on small galaxys with a asi183mm pro or even better a qhy178m and they will be good right to the corner, but I sence you want the bigger sensor in the expectation of trying to go for larger targets. That being the case consider dropping down to a 130pds as it's just that bit wider. I. Terms of filters I went with 1.25 mounted, they are good down to F4.

That kinda implies that your leaving the scope permanently without a cap on it. Would not want to do that to a scope of mine.

There is such a thing as aNitrogen 2 (NII) filter if you have a 3nm Ha filter then you can split it out. Some people will use a LP filter as Luminance in a mono camera.

Yes but its that saddle + the longer losmandy + the vixen on top and the guide scope. All in all that will be at least another Kg if not more.even if they are aluminium That 1kg could be all it takes to move it over two weights. Ill be fixing my guide scope just to the top of the rear ring and changing the losmandy out for a solid vixen bar very little additional weight that way. At any rate, as above you really dont want it to be over two weights with a HEQ5 pro. If you need more weight then I would not be going for another 5kg weight at any rate. Adam

The fact that you also have a losomandy on a HEQ5 implies to me that you have replaced the basic clamp??? That must add weight on the scope side. Also if you have a vixen dove tail on top and the added weight on the longer losmandy they I that really will have an effect. Like I say, you need to weigh it all. Adam

You need to provide a image and also weigh it for people to comment, I would also be very interested in the result as this is the setup that I intend to use. Perhaps the 6.3kg is without the tube rings and dove tail. Only one way to find out mate. Got to be honest though my setup which is identical to yours but with a 130PDS balances with just 1 x 5kg counter weight 1cm from the end of the bar. I refuse to believe that the Esprit 100 is more than 5kg heavier than my 130PDS....of course the second weight cant move all the way to the end of the bar though as the first is in the way., but the 130PDS is 4kg with its tube rings attached. Best to weigh the scope with its rings and dovetail and then weigh it with the rest of your stuff added. That way there is no doubt. https://starizona.com/store/manufacturers/sky-watcher/esprit-100mm-ed-triplet-apo-refractor 16.3 LB according to Starazona's web page that is 7.4Kg not 6.3Kg.....huum the plot thickens. That extra Kg could well push it over two counter weights. But the total should still be under 10Kg for your equipment and I would hope the scope is closer to the pivot point than the weights. Adam

I would think that this is a case of insufficient current being supplied drawing down the voltage. Try a volt meter to measure the volts being supplied as the cooler maxes out. It's not a great idea to be running at max delta anyhow.

CS2 has it in 8 and 16 bit whats that got to do with CC. Older versions of CC do not manipulate 16 bit images, not the current pay per year one, older stand alone versions. Simple statement.

Depends on the version, older versions did not.

A screen shot might help? I do know some versions of PS like CC will not manipulate 16bit images. Only 8-bit and hence are useless for astro work.

They all fit in mine without issues.

Gain 600 really is way too high, no benefit I am aware of beyond gain 200 with the ASI1600mm pro. Adam

No it wont be that, they will work in either direction in terms of filtering, but it is worth noting that there is a correct direction for anti reflection coating.