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Showing results for tags 'filters'.
Found 53 results
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As I have replaced them with new-style versions, I have two old-style ZWO 36mm unmounted narrowband filters for sale: - H-alpha - S-II They are pre-2018, so with both sides silver instead of yellow&purple, and come in the original, but opened, packaging. Condition like new. Attached images have been made with them. Any decent price will do. Nicolàs -
Although I've had my scope for a couple of years it hasn't had much use and I'm pretty much still inexperienced. The other night I was looking at M13 which pretty much matches everyone's description of a fuzzy ball. I couldn't really say that I could start to resolve any of the stars, maximum magnication was x100. Would a Ultra High Contrast Filter help? If so any recommendation please. TIA. Ed
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Hello I am wondering if anyone has a suggestion that might help me My imaging set up is an RC reflector with an FLI proline 16803 camera and 50mm Astrodon filters (LRGB + 5nm narrow band) I have had a string of issues...everything from my mount had mechanical problems to my telescope had issues with the mirror cell to some family distractions...but at long last I seem to have everything working with the exception of the Astrodon Ha filter. Attached are representative 30minute subframes of the horse head and Pacman nebulae in Ha, SII, and OIII. I get similar results with different objects although for bright, broad spectrum targets like M42, I will get data from the Ha filter (much as the stars shine thru on the HH and Pacman) although even that data does not comport with other imager’s Ha images of those objects. The LRGB performance appears to be normal. My hypothesis is that this Ha filter is defective, perhaps not centered on 656.3nm I have contacted Astrodon and exchanged a couple of emails with Cary Chleborad seeking some help. At first he claimed there was no issue because with enough manipulation some data could be extracted from the Ha. Later, when confronted with the other narrowband frames and the obvious difference to the Ha, at first he ghosted me, but when I said I would ask other imagers for help, he responded with a new position stating that because of the way the filters are made and their robust quality processes, it is impossible for the filter to be defective and therefore something else must be at issue. He does not offer a suggestion of what might be the problem, nor is he interested in having me send the filter back for evaluation. Frankly, I’m more than disappointed given the premium I paid for Astrodon filters All that aside, and taking Cary’s position at face value, does anyone have an idea of what might cause this behavior other than the filter? In a perfect world, does anyone live in the Austin, Texas area who would be willing to try my filter one night and see what they get with their equipment? The attached link is to the raw, uncalibrated files right off the camera. I think a simple blink process in PixInsight will show what I’m talking about. I’m a little at my wits end, please help! https://www.dropbox.com/sh/60mvhzb717hdhnl/AACcAMkQdDsJuk1RU10PXvgja?dl=0 -
Hi, I'm a beginner and I want to buy something for my telescope. I have a Bresser 6 inch Newtonian(750mm focal length) I have 2 lenses, 9mm, 25mm, a moon filter and a 2x barlow. What would be the next thing to get? I was thinking maybe a solar filter, a light pollution filter since i am stuck at home, idk. What are your thoughts on this?
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Hi all, I'm just getting started with compiling a collection of accessories to enhance my viewing. I want to add to the collection slowly, so i get a chance to learn from each new thing and use that experience to better inform the next purchase. With that in mind, i was wondering if I'd be better served getting filters earlier or later in the process? By filters I'm sure i don't really know what I'm talking about but i see on FLO a narrowband UHC filter (unbranded) and a celestron "CLS" filter - City Light Something, or essentially a light pollution filter. Both around forty quid, which is my budget. Both sound useful for me, I'm in a red zone (urban/ suburban). I'm interested in seeing more nebula - improving the Orion nebula, i saw someone said a filter helped them see the veil nebula with similar equipment to me in similar conditions. So... any thoughts or advice? : ) i have an f/8 skywatcher dobsonian 6", with the stock 10 and 25mm eyepieces, and an 18mm BST StarGuider coming for my birthday... as well as an astro essentials moon filter and an astro essentials 2x barlow. thanks! Rob
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I am selling the following items: Revelation Dielectric 99% Quartz 1.25" diagonal. The 1.25" nosepiece is threaded for filters. IMPORTANT: The screw hole on the 1.25" eyepiece holder requires tapping and re-threading, therefore the discounted price: £25 SOLD Gerd Neumann Jr. Ronchi Okular 10L/mm. This is useful for checking whether the optics have turned edge: £20 SOLD Set of 1.25" Orion coloured filters (made in Japan): #38A (blue), #58 (green), #23A (red): £30 SOLD Price includes 1st class Royal Mail signed-for. Payment via bank transfer or PayPal as friends.
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Hello my first question (takes deep breath) I’m looking at buying a moon filter I have a nexstar 6se, now it’s possible I’ve had an information overload but I’m sure I read or watched a video that said SCT type scopes dim the light of the image because of the design with that said the standard density of a moon filter I’m looking at (Baader Neutral Density Moon filters) is 0.9. Because of image being dim (if that’s correct)would I be better off getting a filter with 0.6 density to avoid the image being too dim. i know the filter is there to help your eyesight etc ive had the scope for a couple of days and haven’t actually used it during the night yet so I have no idea how bright the moon would be. Any advice would be much appreciated even to tell me I’m barking up the wrong tree Andy
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Probably a stupid question... Heyyy soo i am a begginer and about to buy my first telescope.A Skywatcher 200 p. I ve just though of something , Since i know filters can be stacked i ve been wondering if i could take visual RGB filters and stack them.Specifically blue green and red in order to create a visual full colour image ,like photography. I know its probably a stupid question because people all over the world would have done this by now .But i m just curious. -Kronos
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I'm selling my 1.25" baader H-alpha 7nm filter. I purchased it on amazon several months ago, but have never actually used it, as my CCD didn't work. (Its just been put in a filter wheel but never used!) As such it is in perfect condition. Price £75 including delivery to a UK address. Payment via Paypal (buyer pays fees), Paypal friends, or bank transfer Any questions, please ask.
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I currently have an ultra high contrast filter - Zhumell High Performance UHC - and have had some luck seeing additional features in larger objects while using it. I was thinking about purchasing an Oxygen-III filter also, but wonder just how different is the O-III compared to the UHC? Is it worth the money to have both in my filter collection? My scope is only a 130mm, and I would love to see additional details while finding and viewing DSOs such as Dumbbell and Ring nebulae, see more details in Eagle, Trifid, etc. It would be awesome to find something that would also enhance galaxies too (M31, M33 etc.). Does anyone know if an O-III filter will perform better than my current UHC filter?
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Reading the forums, it seems certain filter types are best suited to certain DSOs, in particular different nebulae. If OIII filters are good for most nebulae, which nebulae benefit more from other types? If UHC filters help with contrast for galaxies & fainter DSOs, are there certain suffixed types better than others. Hydrogen Alpha, Beta & various other filters, get mentioned. What are those for? -
Hi I will buying a Celestron 11" HD cassegrain and to save I need to buy most of the needed equipments since they are 2x -2.5x price in Asia and i would not want to end up with things I dont need. For eyepieces will a combination of Ethos 13, 17, 21, Nagler 31, Panoptic 41 or William swan 40 and a TPO 50mm. Any suggestions please? Im not really well versed yet with filters for planets and deep sky and other than sky viewing I will be using a Nikon D5500 for astrophotography and maybe buy a simple webcam. Any suggestions? Im also considering getting a JMI dual speed motored focuser....Any suggestions? I hope with your suggestions I can gather most of what I need since I will be bringing them home to Manila Philippines where there no astronomy stores. Thanks in advance. -
Good morning, I'm close to purchase the ASI1600 with the filter wheel and OAG. I have a couple of questions about the filters: Is it worth to go for the Baader LRGB? Or can I go for the ZWO ones (maybe are Optlong?). Some bad reports on the L filter on the later. For narrow band I was thinking on the Astrodons: 5nm Halpha, 3nm OIII and SII. I don't want to go for the 3nm Halpha and the same NII... not high polluted area, less filters. Am I right? Always looking for a balance price-caracteristics. About the size, 31mm unmounted. Thanks so much for your help, Aleix
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I am searching and researching for another filter. Usage: a) to bring forth details from stars and clusters, mostly DSO objects (stars, clusters, galaxies, nebulae); and b), to provide clearer details on nebulae. So my question to all of you is, what kind/brand of filter helps you achieve the above? Note: my principal interest here is Astro-Photograhy vs. visual. I already have a Celestron O-III filter, and a Solomark UHC. I am looking to add a 3rd filter that will help me pull details from most DSOs. Not all filters may provide all solutions, so there may be the need to consider 2 (two) additional filters to add to my collection. So, what do you use and how happy are you with the outcome? I am interested first in filter type, and second in who provides it. Thanks for your replies. I am fortunate with clear dark skies here (ie, an LPR is unnecessary, beside I have one... maybe two.) OOPS! I think this belongs in a different forum, my bad! -
Hi all was out last night the 9th and was just viewing around 21:30 seeing was brill so a bit of moon as Jupiter was bounce ing all over the place try in to get focus with the rgb was terrible , That said I pointed at the moon ,and the boil was evident and I ran a few test vids could not get tight focus Here's the kit C9.25" sct Dmk 21 mono Ir 740mn pass filter Cgem on pier 30fps Average 1200 frames best 90% stacked
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I really struggle when viewing nebula as they appear really, really faint and barley distinguishable (expect M42, M43 due to shear size and brightness) this is due to heavy(ish) light pollution, I have seen there are a couple of filters that claim to reduce light pollution and or improve visuals of different types of nebulae. Do these filters work? And which one will (if they do work) work best for my scope (the standard 8" SW dob 1200/200)? -
Whilst using my canon with a 200p newt via the usual ring-adapter to focuser prime-focus, I want to add a light-pollution filter but cant figure out if I can use the 2 inch ep type nebula filters between the camera and scope or would need the more expensive 'clip' CLS filters. I dont use a barlow or a barlow type t-adapter - or any other filters - and have the 2inch adapter that comes with sw 200p scopes, but still not sure exactly how either type of lp filter fits between the cam and scope, anyone know how they are attached and what type I can use? Regards Aenima
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Hi there, I have a DMK21AU04.AS mono camera which I wanted to start using for planetary imaging & I was wondering which filter I would need. I already have a IR pass filter but I was wondered if a IR/UV cut filter would be better? Any advice is appreciated. Cheers, Jeff -
I have 15mm Vixen LV EP which I bought off Astroboot a few months ago. It's a great EP for viewing with, and used it mostly for whole sun views of the Mercury transit yesterday. My issue with it is I have some coloured filters that I use for mostly planetary views (although I used them yesterday too on the sun to aid views etc), but some of the filters I have when I screw them in to the EP either won't go in correctly, or get tight halfway in when threaded in. I've checked the internal thread on the collar of the EP and that seems OK, with no obvious burrs, or signs of cross threading. I've also tested out the filters that has this issue with the 15mm EP in all my other EP's and don't get any issue when I thread them in to those EP's at all. I think the issue maybe the black paint/coating applied to the thread on the EP is making it tight for the EP's themselves, and due to manufacturing tolerances in sizes some filters will thread in OK, and others don't. My question is is there a simple way to get rid of the black paint in the EP metal collar (only the first 3mm where the filter screws in). If I got some paint stripper and sat the collar in a dish containing some 3mm of solution will this dissolve the paint away OK? The only other issue with the EP is on most of my other EP's the metal collar that the filters screw into can actually be unscrewed from the EP itself. On the Vixen EP if I try to unscrew the collar it also starts to unscrew some of the lower lenses in the EP, and so don't want to unscrew the collar if this might damage the EP by dislodging any internal lenses or other components of the EP itself. Anybody ever tried to clean away this black paint on their EP's before succesfully if they had similar issues? Any advise is welcome.
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Before I continue, I do know ND is neutral density. But my question.... It seems to be common knowledge that a filter of level ND 5 is needed when viewing the sun. My ND filters for my camera are ND 2,ND 4, ND 6, and so on. So can I use one of these to view/photograph the sun? If not, what is the difference between my ND camera filters and the other ND filter/film sheets everyone bought for the eclipse? I'm sorry but I am new to any photography with telescopes. It's almost embarrassing to say it's been in storage. So, Thank you to anyone and everyone that can help! -
I'm thinking about buying a filter to improve the contrast on DSO's in my new 12". The question is, is there really a big difference between the UHC filters (baader, SW, etc) and the OIII filters? Will the OIII limit me to a certain amount of objects such as M27 and the veil? Thanks!
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Are the Baader LRGB filters parfocal with their narrowband filters, the Ha, O3 and S2 ones? I have Astronomik LRGB and Baader narrowband in my filterwheel. The narrowband filters need refocusing after LRGB which means I can't include then in an imaging sequence. I haven't managed to get autofocusing working in Maxim dl yet. I bought the LRGB first for a previous camera and then couldn't afford the 3nm Astronomik narrowband when I upgraded.
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Torn between which 2" filter would best suit my scope for things like dumbell and cygnus loop. I have a moon filter coming already as the moon is blinding. The scope is a 127mm apochromatic ED triplet refractor, f/7.5 (fl=952mm). Although not f/10, it should still have high contrast(obviously I have not had it out yet). Have 2" Meade UWF EPS and some other 1-1/4 EPs). Am hesitating to get the UHC filter over an OIII. Hoping for some input here, and perhaps recommend brand. I know the baader ones are supposed to be high end, but have heard they are not much if any better than a celestron O3?
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I posted this in the Imaging section by mistake very sorry. Hi everyone on this sunny Sunday :-), i was going to order my new bits last night:- DMK 21AU618.AS Opticstar Manual Colour Filter Wheel (it has 5 positions plus 3 adapters) a powered is too expensive at the moment for me at this time. I then realised how many filtters there were & i need some advice for the correct ones for me, i will be imaging Planets, DSO's through 600D & probably Solar & Lunar. Can you use some of the filters for Planets & DSO's ? Found these so far:- 1) Filters - Opticstar 1.25" High Transparency LRGB Imaging Filters £99.00 Specs :- High transparency filters are placed within a thin metal ring with a full 26mm clear aperture that threads into the barrel of any standard 1.25" eyepiece or filter wheel that can accept 1.25" filters. Each filter is threaded at both ends to accept another filter if required. Filters come inside individual plastic cases with a transparent window. All filters are IR blocked which is important when imaging. Filter Transparency: Clear: 95% (with Infra Red Block) Red: 94% (with Infra Red Block) Green: 92% (with Infra Red Block) Blue: 91% (with Infra Red Block) OR Opticstar 1.25" LRGbB Imaging Filters £39.95 (seemed too cheap) OR Baader RGB Filter Set with IR Cut £73.00 from FLO's site :- ' An affordable set of quality absorptive 1.25" filters with high transmission. Includes Red, Green, Blue and IR block' OR Baader RGB Filter Set with IR Cut CCD SET £198.00 from FLO's site :- 'A NEW line of premium quality Baader LRGBC filters that compliment Baader's narrowband emission line filters (H-beta/OIII/H-alpha/SII). Elaborate anti-reflection coatings, planeoptically polished to 1/4 wave and parfocal. Note: The LRGB filters include IR-block coatings so the clear filter is necessary if you wish to image the full spectrum, including IR, otherwise you need only order the LRGB filters. All the filters, including the clear filter, are very nearly parfocal so there is little or no need to refocus between filter changes.' -
Which filters for my DMK should i go for ? These ............ http://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/baader-lrgbc-ccd-filter-set.html OR These.............http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Telescopes-Baader.asp?p=0_10_5_1_9_130 I have been advised to get a Baader UHC-S Filter but is a Baader Neodymium Filter worth getting as i have a 'bog standard' SW 1.25" LP filter ? & i also need a C/CS to T-thread Adaptor to attach to my wheel as well which i have now found.
