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Found 74 results

  1. Greetings everyone. I recently scored a great deal on facebook marketplace and bought Skywatcher Skymax 180 mm Maksutov-Cassegrain Telescope (f/15) with EQ6R-pro mount. I understand that long focal length telescopes are more suitable for planetary imaging. However, as I am tight on budget, I would like to use the same scope for deep-sky astrophotography. I have Canon Rebel T5 DSLR camera that I am using for taking images. Without autoguiding and a decent polar alignment, I can get ~30 seconds long shots without any star trailing, but that's not sufficient for imaging objects like M51. I would like to be able to integrate longer, say few minutes, thus would like to purchase an autoguider. Here are some specific questions I have. 1). The telescope comes with an 8 x 50 straight-through finder. If I were to use it as a guidescope, what type of image integration time can I expect? Has anyone done autoguiding for f/15 scope with an 8x50 or other finderscopes? 2). If the integration time will be an issue with the 8x50 finder scope, I am open to purchasing an off-axis-guider. However, considering the narrow field-of-view of Mak-180 telescope, I am concerned about not having enough photons from guidestar for autoguiding. For instance, with my DSLR camera, I need to integrate 20-30 seconds to see the nearby stars in M51. What type of OAG and camera would I need to autoguide with my scope? Are there affordable cameras (~$200) that would do the job for me? Would ASI120MM Mini Monochrome (~$150) do the job? What about OAG? I plan to use phd2 software for autoguiding rather than relying on the build-in guide port on the mount. Instead of integrating for hours, I am planning to do DSS stacking of few mintues long multiple shots, hopefully this will put less strict requirements on the autoguider. In case this information is relevant: with my current setup, I have no issue pointing my scope to a desired deep-sky object, track the object within the field-of-view of my DSLR camera for hours using the mechnical tracking of the EQ6 mount. For instance following is a single raw image of Ring nebula taken with 30 seconds shot. But it is not enough for generating high-quality images. Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Jay
  2. I'm selling a 1 year old Moravian G3-16200M Mark II camera. Please note this is the newer Mark II camera with faster downloads (on my NUC computer it was 9s.). Everything is in like new condition. The Moravian G3-16200M MKII has a class 2 chip and the standard cooling. The camera cames with an M48 nose piece (unused), power supply with both USA and European plug, 10ft USB cable and hard case. There is also a 17mm extension that can be used if you purchase separately the larger M68 adapter. There are currently 2 read out lines that completely disappear with active cooling and proper image calibration, as is typical with a class 2 sensor. £2240 PLUS SHIPPING, no fee for paypal. NOTE: ships from USA.
  3. Hello everyone, QHY5-II (MONO) - as new with original box and acessories. Great guiding camera! Check some photos at Astrobin or Stargazers Lounge under "paulobao". I just quit the hobby and sold all my gear (FS102, G11, QSI532, etc...). Price 70 GBP shipping included.
  4. From the album: 2015 Various

    recently found a cheap 16ic mono - a little old and kernakkered but does the job :) A stack of 7 or 8 subs of 300s 400s and 500s (kept increasing exposure length once good tracking had been established)
  5. Aenima

    Mono jupiter lu070m

    From the album: 2013/2014 planetary

    Lumenera lu070m - jupiter, 3x barlow in 200p/eq5 30+ fps

    © Aenima

  6. THIS ITEM HAS NOW BEEN SOLD. This listing is for my personal camera (Kayron from Light Vortex Astronomy). It is a QSI 660wsg-8 monochrome CCD camera with the onboard 8-position filter wheel and Off-Axis Guider (OAG). The camera has been extremely well kept and cared for. I am supplying them in the original QSI pelican case, alongside the power adapter (with EU and UK plugs), a new USB cable, the QSI Allen wrench set, the 2" adapter for the camera and the guiding cable. The camera's condition is as-new. The QSI 660wsg-8 requires a single USB connection to control both imaging and the filter wheel. It also cools to -45°C below ambient temperature. The CCD sensor is Sony's ICX694, which is extremely low noise requiring no darks whatsoever and having peak Quantum Efficiency of 77%. The readout noise is also extremely low at only 3.97e as per my own measurement. Its full well capacity is of 17,719e, also as per my own measurement. For more information, please see QSI's website: https://qsimaging.com/products/600-series/qsi-660/ Please note that this camera currently retails at just over £3,700 from UK suppliers, €4,400 from European suppliers or $4,200 from US suppliers. Payment is preferred via bank transfer but PayPal is OK with an extra 2.9% to cover PayPal fees. I'll cover postage to you via tracked Courier. I welcome any questions you may have regarding this listing. Thank you for looking.
  7. Hi, I want to place a CCD camera where the secondary mirror is, remove the sec. mirror completely. It,s a home made F5 14 inch. Do I have to use a coma corrector or/and a field flattener? Can I use a Barlow with a field flattener or coma corrector, can I use eye piece projection with a field flattener or coma corrector? Many thanks, Markus
  8. After reading the Sony star eater story I abandoned the brand and looking elsewhere. I used to be a nikonian/touched canon bodies only a handful of times but that should not bias my decision for the future. Any arguments for choosing one or the other? In this quick review they came up more or less even. I would like to monochrome-mod the camera and add a cold-finger-type cooling as well. And I know, there are cheaper mono astrocameras, like the asi1600mm-c arund, but that tiny creature covers only 1/4 of the frame of the 6D/D610. Full Frame CCD's are way too expensive for my budget except a few KAI-11002 based 2nd hand unit, but that piece of hardware has so low QE (H-a: 30%) and so high noise, that a microlens-stripped DSLR might fare better... (and still significantly cheaper) From my side: For canon: - I have a sigma ART 1.4/20 for EOS lens, currently used for videography but could make a great timelapser. - Canon has a somewhat shorter flange distance - in case I have space issues, abovementioned review quotes vignetting, due to the smaller throat diameter (nikon: 44, canon 54mm) - this is a topic in my case, I plan to use a Riccardi reducer on my apo scope. -Canon is broadly supported by the astrophoto community, has magic lantern firmware mods (whatever that means for astro...), etc. For nikon: -I do have and will keep my astro-modded D5100 for the time being. This means two sets of adapters.
  9. Hello guys and girls, these are the first adventures of a new CCD user. I hope you'll have a bit to laugh i bought a used QHY8 from a fellow stargazer. It arrived yesterday. It was missing the documentation (but in the documentation was not part of the deal, so that's okay). After quite a while I got everything running (the Camara needs two power sources). As the weather was good for the first time in years, I immediately set up in my garden at 11 PM. First I was struck by a faulty USB cable - it took me about an hour and a half to isolate the problem as it was not constantly failing but intermittantly freezing the software and/or windows. But after that, i was able to shoot a few short moon sequences with APT. However, the result was less than optimal. I was getting pesky little black squares. I suspected something with debayering and asked APT's Ivo and the qhyccd forum for help. Ivo answered within about 30 mins, and after 2 or 3 messages everything was clear: the debayering settings in APT refer only to the display within APT, not to the saved images ! (I hear the more experienced SGLers ROFLing) After some updates and mouseclicks, i got nice little stacked images of the full moon. The next problem was the cooling: the unit cooled very well when connected straight to a power source, but with the QHY power converter in-between the cooling was mediocre (guessing from the outside temp of the casing). Also, the unit stubbornly said it was running at 25C, but the pictures were ok (yes, i know, moon pics dont have to worry about SNR, but still, they were ok, some test darks at 30 secs were also very ok). Well, to cut a long story short: the QHY8 does not have a temp sensor!!! Its supposed to cool straight away at max power. APT (and other software) is somehow getting wrong temp values. Finally, i used the QHY power converter for the sony chip and a second power supply for the cooling. The finding: the cooling via the QHY power converter was much weaker- even the fan went at a little lower rotation speed. Running through the second power supply, the unit cooled great. Possibly one of the cables was mistakenly sent instead of the original one- it looks suspiciously thin for a cable that is supposed to be transferring 36 watts at 12 volt. So, after several hours of silently swearing, everything works! Yay!!! PS: the suspiciously thin 36 watts cable (the cross diameter of the plug is 2.5mm):
  10. I am deciding to jump in and purchase a used CCD camera. Some of you may already know of my plans as I have posted them on other popular fora a week back. I am in a dilema because one question plagues my mind. The Orion G3, being a started CCD is also easy on my pocket, specially a used one. The upside with it is that it is a perfect match for the GSO6" RC that I am buying this month (gives me 1.31"/pixel). However, it has a pixel array of ~ 750x520 which means that the full size image will still be quite small. Other than the small array, the chip does have some good characteristics like 50k full well capacity, low noise etc. Which other camera would match up to it and why? Any experiences anyone?
  11. Geoptik Nikon SLR Lens CCD Adaptor Bought 2nd hand in error, as I need the Canon lens adaptor. This is the Geoptiks 30A190 model designed for older (non autofocus) models of Nikon lenses. £ 50 + £5 postage (insured and signed for) to UK mainland. Paypal or cash on collection (from Worcester) or straight swap with the Canon version of this adaptor.
  12. Hey there, Curious about which CCD's you have been or are using successfully with auto guiding on a rpi2 or even a rpi3? lin_guider seems to support a bunch of manufacturers but a list of what models are proven to work with the Raspberry pi's will surely help my quest! Cheers for the help!
  13. I have just finished my update and translation of an article about the old astrograph at Observatory Saltsjöbaden. Here is an another article I wrote long time ago. Now translated to English and placed on my homepage. http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-articles/debris-finder/debris-finder.html This is a very exciting instrument built at Stockholm University. One of it's purposes is to detect the debris around young stars that maybe form planets later. Sub arc seconds resolution, Lucku Image, readout noise almost zero, visual and near IR. I find it very exiting and hope you also do that. /Lars
  14. I have been wondering, which is the better solution? The A7s and the dedicated ZWO ASI1600mm-cool astrocamera costs roughly the same. Leaving the A7s' Bayer array in place (of course removing the ICF) results that the effective light collecting area for H-alpha is ~1/4th of the total sensor area (~860/4=215mm2). The lucky thing is, that both the Bayer transmission and the cmos sensitivity is great at 656nm. Thanks to the unlucky transmission curves of the green and blue pixels, O-III at 500nm also takes a toll: here we are blessed with 3 pixels of the array (G+B) but both G and B filter components absorb around 50% here! Effectively in O-III, the a7s acts as a 322mm2 area monochrome camera. Considering that the Zwo has better cooling than the a7s can practically ever have (unless one completely disassembles it and sticks a dual-stage peltier on the sensors back), less-than-ideal transmission of the bayer filters AND camera-independent factors, like vignetting (depends on your scope and optical train), I would say the Zwo is at least equivalent if not better than the fullframe a7s. Meaning, that if you want to cover a certain LARGE area, you get there at the same time with mosaicing. However, if you target one object which fits the Zwo's field than it should be clearly superior, delivering the same results at ~1/3 exposure times. Does my line of thinking make sense? Can someone support it with experience? Monochrome modding of the A7s could be another step, however that kills the microlenses and results in a 20-30% light loss + costs a fortune if done professionally or plays Russian roulette with your wallet if you try scraping off the Bayer yourself.
  15. I just came across the MR16000MU-BH lightweight camera, is it any good for deep sky? Where should its price tag converge? (Haven't found any dealers' prices). Haven't heard the name around deep-sky photographers...
  16. Hello everyone! I have recently been looking into deep-sky imaging, and related equipment. My telescope is a SW200p, and I already have an unmodded Canon EOS 1100D, but I've been thinking about moving into the world of CCD deep-sky imaging. My budget is approx. £500, and at that budget, the best I could get in terms of deep-sky CCDs is the Atik Titan (Mono). However, I was wondering whether I would get any major improvements over my DSLR, and whether it'd be the best use for my money. Here is what I know... Pros: Mono camera has capability of being used for luminance, and can use a variety of filters, as is not limited by RGB colours.I already have a filter wheel, so that is not a problem.Cooled CCD means less noiseLooks like it's a good option for fainter planets, with high sensitivity, and the potential for moderately high frameratesMore sensitive than most DSLRsCons: Much smaller number of pixels (and FOV width) than a DSLR - would need a very large mosaic for an object like M42Expensive!!Also, I couldn't help but compare it to the next models up, which happen to be twice the price (the 420L seems to be the next one up - £800!!). Would it be dramatically better to save up until next Christmas to buy something so expensive?! Any advice would be really welcomed! David
  17. Morning all, Never done astro photography before, what ccd camera would be best suited to the CPC 800? Budget is limited to sub £750 but next year all going well and with some experience under my belt I'd like to move towards "HyperStar."
  18. I was looking to get into astrophotography with my 10 inch dobson and for start would like to buy something affordable. Cameras can be used or new. Thanks in advance!
  19. Hi Everyone, I have been trying to connect my QHY FW2 to APT and even though it establishes connection, I am unable to rotate the wheel with the software. No clue whats happening. The wheel is powered, connected to CCD and APT. But nothing after that. Someone please help
  20. Has anyone modified and used a car CCD reversing camera for use in a scope?
  21. Hi All, I have Maxim DL recognising my QHY9 as an ASCOM camera, but it simply isn't able to trigger the shutter. The camera shutter is easily triggered with both Ezcap and APT, but not Maxim. Any help would be highly appreciated.
  22. Hi All, Anyone using unmounted filters and QHYFW2M here? Please tell me what I am doing wrong? There is no manual to install filters and the below pic shows what I have tried. The wheel was working when filters weren't present, but isn't working after installation. There are a few brass threaded spacers I have no clue what to do about them.
  23. I just upgraded to a 6D and checking in theory, what is the ideal ISO and frametime for the new setup. Looking at the read-noise characteristics, ISO should not be kept low - however, increasing the ISO kills the full well capacity, at ISO3200 I got only 2400e-(!), which quickly leads to DR problems. I feel ISO1600 could be a meaningful compromise between FW and read noise. Regarding noise and frametimes: I know, long subs are in general preferred. Looking at the overall S/N formula, in theory I'd loose only about 20% on the S/N if I shoot 10 subs instead of one long exposure thanks to the ~3e- read noise. Is my maths right? If the read noise is significantly below 5e-, can we really go in photon counting mode/save a lot on mounts? I made a quick excel plot on the story: practically ISO3200 delivers the same results using 10 frames as 5 frames shot at iso 800. I added 0.2e-/sec/pixel dark noise (~5°C cooled eos 6D value) and a signal, that generates 150electrons in a 2 minutes sub, I didn't add photon noise.
  24. Does it make any sense to shoot H-beta along H-alpha for narrowband imaging? They are both arising from the same element, although I don't know whether their ratio remains the same for all emission nebulae...
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