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Found 65 results

  1. Hi Everyone, I have been trying to connect my QHY FW2 to APT and even though it establishes connection, I am unable to rotate the wheel with the software. No clue whats happening. The wheel is powered, connected to CCD and APT. But nothing after that. Someone please help
  2. I have an old StarlightXpress Frame store that hasn't been used for years. After the order from "on-high" to de-clutter I was going to take it to the skip along with other old astro stuff, but thought I'd just check to see if it was working. It appears to work fine so if any use can be found for it I would rather donate it to someone than take it to the skip. For those not familiar with the SX original Framestore it is self contained and only needed a PC to save images. To do that there was rudimentary software and a card to insert into the PC. Of course, being the late 1990's it was designed for use with Windows 98. To save images would require an old desktop with Windowa 98 or maybe Windows 2000 on it. However, for taking short or long exposure images and displaying them on a screen no PC is needed. I did use it at a star party to do just that. Showing a group of people objects they couldn't see well, if at all, through the scope directly collected quite a crowd. In the spirit of reducing landfill, if it can be of any use to anyone who is prepared to collect it from Maidenhead I will happily give it away. I attach images of the setup taken last week. Ian B
  3. I have no idea how this stacks up to other cameras, but I figured I’d post this new camera from Meade for those imagers out there. https://www.meade.com/accessories/cameras/deep-sky-imager-dsi-iv/deep-sky-imager-iv-dsi-iv-color.html
  4. Hey there, Curious about which CCD's you have been or are using successfully with auto guiding on a rpi2 or even a rpi3? lin_guider seems to support a bunch of manufacturers but a list of what models are proven to work with the Raspberry pi's will surely help my quest! Cheers for the help!
  5. I just came across the MR16000MU-BH lightweight camera, is it any good for deep sky? Where should its price tag converge? (Haven't found any dealers' prices). Haven't heard the name around deep-sky photographers...
  6. Geoptik Nikon SLR Lens CCD Adaptor Bought 2nd hand in error, as I need the Canon lens adaptor. This is the Geoptiks 30A190 model designed for older (non autofocus) models of Nikon lenses. £ 50 + £5 postage (insured and signed for) to UK mainland. Paypal or cash on collection (from Worcester) or straight swap with the Canon version of this adaptor.
  7. From the album: 2015 Various

    recently found a cheap 16ic mono - a little old and kernakkered but does the job :) A stack of 7 or 8 subs of 300s 400s and 500s (kept increasing exposure length once good tracking had been established)
  8. Aenima

    Mono jupiter lu070m

    From the album: 2013/2014 planetary

    Lumenera lu070m - jupiter, 3x barlow in 200p/eq5 30+ fps

    © Aenima

  9. I am deciding to jump in and purchase a used CCD camera. Some of you may already know of my plans as I have posted them on other popular fora a week back. I am in a dilema because one question plagues my mind. The Orion G3, being a started CCD is also easy on my pocket, specially a used one. The upside with it is that it is a perfect match for the GSO6" RC that I am buying this month (gives me 1.31"/pixel). However, it has a pixel array of ~ 750x520 which means that the full size image will still be quite small. Other than the small array, the chip does have some good characteristics like 50k full well capacity, low noise etc. Which other camera would match up to it and why? Any experiences anyone?
  10. Morning all, Never done astro photography before, what ccd camera would be best suited to the CPC 800? Budget is limited to sub £750 but next year all going well and with some experience under my belt I'd like to move towards "HyperStar."
  11. Hello everyone! I have recently been looking into deep-sky imaging, and related equipment. My telescope is a SW200p, and I already have an unmodded Canon EOS 1100D, but I've been thinking about moving into the world of CCD deep-sky imaging. My budget is approx. £500, and at that budget, the best I could get in terms of deep-sky CCDs is the Atik Titan (Mono). However, I was wondering whether I would get any major improvements over my DSLR, and whether it'd be the best use for my money. Here is what I know... Pros: Mono camera has capability of being used for luminance, and can use a variety of filters, as is not limited by RGB colours.I already have a filter wheel, so that is not a problem.Cooled CCD means less noiseLooks like it's a good option for fainter planets, with high sensitivity, and the potential for moderately high frameratesMore sensitive than most DSLRsCons: Much smaller number of pixels (and FOV width) than a DSLR - would need a very large mosaic for an object like M42Expensive!!Also, I couldn't help but compare it to the next models up, which happen to be twice the price (the 420L seems to be the next one up - £800!!). Would it be dramatically better to save up until next Christmas to buy something so expensive?! Any advice would be really welcomed! David
  12. I have just finished my update and translation of an article about the old astrograph at Observatory Saltsjöbaden. Here is an another article I wrote long time ago. Now translated to English and placed on my homepage. http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-articles/debris-finder/debris-finder.html This is a very exciting instrument built at Stockholm University. One of it's purposes is to detect the debris around young stars that maybe form planets later. Sub arc seconds resolution, Lucku Image, readout noise almost zero, visual and near IR. I find it very exiting and hope you also do that. /Lars
  13. Hi, I want to place a CCD camera where the secondary mirror is, remove the sec. mirror completely. It,s a home made F5 14 inch. Do I have to use a coma corrector or/and a field flattener? Can I use a Barlow with a field flattener or coma corrector, can I use eye piece projection with a field flattener or coma corrector? Many thanks, Markus
  14. I have been wondering, which is the better solution? The A7s and the dedicated ZWO ASI1600mm-cool astrocamera costs roughly the same. Leaving the A7s' Bayer array in place (of course removing the ICF) results that the effective light collecting area for H-alpha is ~1/4th of the total sensor area (~860/4=215mm2). The lucky thing is, that both the Bayer transmission and the cmos sensitivity is great at 656nm. Thanks to the unlucky transmission curves of the green and blue pixels, O-III at 500nm also takes a toll: here we are blessed with 3 pixels of the array (G+B) but both G and B filter components absorb around 50% here! Effectively in O-III, the a7s acts as a 322mm2 area monochrome camera. Considering that the Zwo has better cooling than the a7s can practically ever have (unless one completely disassembles it and sticks a dual-stage peltier on the sensors back), less-than-ideal transmission of the bayer filters AND camera-independent factors, like vignetting (depends on your scope and optical train), I would say the Zwo is at least equivalent if not better than the fullframe a7s. Meaning, that if you want to cover a certain LARGE area, you get there at the same time with mosaicing. However, if you target one object which fits the Zwo's field than it should be clearly superior, delivering the same results at ~1/3 exposure times. Does my line of thinking make sense? Can someone support it with experience? Monochrome modding of the A7s could be another step, however that kills the microlenses and results in a 20-30% light loss + costs a fortune if done professionally or plays Russian roulette with your wallet if you try scraping off the Bayer yourself.
  15. Hello guys and girls, these are the first adventures of a new CCD user. I hope you'll have a bit to laugh i bought a used QHY8 from a fellow stargazer. It arrived yesterday. It was missing the documentation (but in the documentation was not part of the deal, so that's okay). After quite a while I got everything running (the Camara needs two power sources). As the weather was good for the first time in years, I immediately set up in my garden at 11 PM. First I was struck by a faulty USB cable - it took me about an hour and a half to isolate the problem as it was not constantly failing but intermittantly freezing the software and/or windows. But after that, i was able to shoot a few short moon sequences with APT. However, the result was less than optimal. I was getting pesky little black squares. I suspected something with debayering and asked APT's Ivo and the qhyccd forum for help. Ivo answered within about 30 mins, and after 2 or 3 messages everything was clear: the debayering settings in APT refer only to the display within APT, not to the saved images ! (I hear the more experienced SGLers ROFLing) After some updates and mouseclicks, i got nice little stacked images of the full moon. The next problem was the cooling: the unit cooled very well when connected straight to a power source, but with the QHY power converter in-between the cooling was mediocre (guessing from the outside temp of the casing). Also, the unit stubbornly said it was running at 25C, but the pictures were ok (yes, i know, moon pics dont have to worry about SNR, but still, they were ok, some test darks at 30 secs were also very ok). Well, to cut a long story short: the QHY8 does not have a temp sensor!!! Its supposed to cool straight away at max power. APT (and other software) is somehow getting wrong temp values. Finally, i used the QHY power converter for the sony chip and a second power supply for the cooling. The finding: the cooling via the QHY power converter was much weaker- even the fan went at a little lower rotation speed. Running through the second power supply, the unit cooled great. Possibly one of the cables was mistakenly sent instead of the original one- it looks suspiciously thin for a cable that is supposed to be transferring 36 watts at 12 volt. So, after several hours of silently swearing, everything works! Yay!!! PS: the suspiciously thin 36 watts cable (the cross diameter of the plug is 2.5mm):
  16. After reading the Sony star eater story I abandoned the brand and looking elsewhere. I used to be a nikonian/touched canon bodies only a handful of times but that should not bias my decision for the future. Any arguments for choosing one or the other? In this quick review they came up more or less even. I would like to monochrome-mod the camera and add a cold-finger-type cooling as well. And I know, there are cheaper mono astrocameras, like the asi1600mm-c arund, but that tiny creature covers only 1/4 of the frame of the 6D/D610. Full Frame CCD's are way too expensive for my budget except a few KAI-11002 based 2nd hand unit, but that piece of hardware has so low QE (H-a: 30%) and so high noise, that a microlens-stripped DSLR might fare better... (and still significantly cheaper) From my side: For canon: - I have a sigma ART 1.4/20 for EOS lens, currently used for videography but could make a great timelapser. - Canon has a somewhat shorter flange distance - in case I have space issues, abovementioned review quotes vignetting, due to the smaller throat diameter (nikon: 44, canon 54mm) - this is a topic in my case, I plan to use a Riccardi reducer on my apo scope. -Canon is broadly supported by the astrophoto community, has magic lantern firmware mods (whatever that means for astro...), etc. For nikon: -I do have and will keep my astro-modded D5100 for the time being. This means two sets of adapters.
  17. Not a new question I know (I've read a few topics on this as you can imagine) but I'd really appreciate the thoughts of others tailored to my situation! I am shooting with a unmodded Canon 6D from my skywatcher 200p mounted to a NEQ6 and guiding with an Orion Awesome Autoguider. Almost entirely shooting deep space nebula targets from my yard in Wellington NZ and occasionally from a dark site about 40minutes drive away (my set-up is pretty mobile working from a Nextbook). I'm a pretty enthusiastic but only an occasional hobbyist maybe shooting a dozen times a year. My work is here on my flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattbalkham/) if you want/need to gauge my level of ability and assess if I am getting the most out of my current set-up. The main question I am asking myself is would I benefit from moving from the 6D (which I also use for normal photography inc. a few weddings etc. and therefore cannot modify) to; 1) a modified DSLR (presumably a 'lesser' DSLR but maybe more tailored to Astro work); or 2) should I take the plunge into CCD (and if so colour/mono, etc. etc. etc.!)? Depending on the answer to above, how much is it sensible to budget for this next step? Thanks in advance Matt
  18. I never had a CCD camera but thinking on the next logical move on a more efficient way of collecting photons. I have a(n admittedly little used) nikon d5100 now and thinking about a monochrome CCD/CMOS camera. A monochrome cooled camera would be I guess even more efficient than an a7s. However, I am traveling a lot, therefore it is imperative that the gear stays airline portable. Does anyone travel with CCD gear? My first candidates are the QHY9 and the ASI1600mm cool, neither weighing more than an average DSLR, even with a filter changer included. Apparently control (autoguider, CCD) can also be solved without a laptop now.
  19. I just upgraded to a 6D and checking in theory, what is the ideal ISO and frametime for the new setup. Looking at the read-noise characteristics, ISO should not be kept low - however, increasing the ISO kills the full well capacity, at ISO3200 I got only 2400e-(!), which quickly leads to DR problems. I feel ISO1600 could be a meaningful compromise between FW and read noise. Regarding noise and frametimes: I know, long subs are in general preferred. Looking at the overall S/N formula, in theory I'd loose only about 20% on the S/N if I shoot 10 subs instead of one long exposure thanks to the ~3e- read noise. Is my maths right? If the read noise is significantly below 5e-, can we really go in photon counting mode/save a lot on mounts? I made a quick excel plot on the story: practically ISO3200 delivers the same results using 10 frames as 5 frames shot at iso 800. I added 0.2e-/sec/pixel dark noise (~5°C cooled eos 6D value) and a signal, that generates 150electrons in a 2 minutes sub, I didn't add photon noise.
  20. OK, so i am considering a long term move from my trusty DSLR to a pure astro cam. I sort of figured out the following things (just my opinion!): A DSLR like my Canon EOS 550D gives a large, decent sensor at an affordable price - zero (if you already own one). In order to really step things remarkably up, i'll probably have to go Mono and cooled - it does not make sense to shell out 4 figures for a small change. I would also like to go for the hubble palette- lets do it right the first try... This means that the investment for me will be at least camera + computer controlled filter wheel + 3 narrow band filters + who knows what else! If i go for the ASI 1600 cool, it looks like the total investment would be positively north of 2200 EUR/GBP- right? I'd love to have feedback from the community! PS.: lots of thanks to the SGL community- since i have started reading SGL, my astro malinvestments have gone down to zero (so far). Thanks again!
  21. Helo, i have CCD tracer talkcam. I have done modifiing (i took out lens so CCD sensor has nothing in front, i put adapter with infrared filter). I have problems with everything. When i put moon in focus every thing is just white. Other things are just black. I dont know which software for imaging (free software) is best. I have sometinh that came with camera and dont have much setup to set. Which software do you use for imaging (and what should I set up?). Does anybody have this camera?? any picture with it?? I tried some pics in daytime and magnification is veeeeery high. Am i doeing something wrong??
  22. Anyone have an Atik 314L+ Mono in good nick that s/he'd like to shift?
  23. Has anyone modified and used a car CCD reversing camera for use in a scope?
  24. Hi, When boring times comes it could be both fun and interesting to do some calculations. This time I did an Excel sheet over the three cameras: Atik 16200, Canon EOS 6D and ZWO ASI1600. I have the Canon 6D and wanted to see how time efficient it is compare to the others. In the Excel sheet it's possible to setup data for the cameras and object information, light pollution and readout noise and max level that shouldn't saturate (clipp). At the end you see how many sub images it takes to reach a given S/N, Signal / Noise ratio. It also calculate the total exposure time and dead time between images. It only compare pixel to pixel, not that the sensor area or the pixel size is different. Take a look here where I have wrote it down if you find it interesting: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency.html It's very simple so don't expect it to be perfect but you can have a lot of interesting information from it if you test with different parameters. You can download the Excel sheet if you find it interesting. /Lars
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