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Found 69 results

  1. Hello, I have a question about filterwheels; SBIG filter wheels specifically. As far as I know they are the only ones that really use the 8 position filter wheels. So I have it loaded with L, R, G, B, Ha, OIII, and SII. So that is seven filters, what goes in the 8th slot??? Thank you for your insight, Christopher
  2. Hello I'm new to this forum, greetings from rainy Luxembourg. I see this subject has been well covered already but I have a specific situation I need help with. I have a f/3.67 20" (508mm) Newtonian,coupled with a TS-Optics Coma Corrector 0.73x Reducer, and an Apogee U4000 CCD (chip size 15.2mm x 15.2mm). I understand I need an over sized secondary to take full advantage of this f/2.7 super fast setup, but exactly what size secondary should I order? This setup has disadvantages that I cannot change like unforgiving collimation and focus (and some coma), but this is the one thing I can change for optimum performance. Can anyone tell me how to calculate this or, better still, calculate it for me? Cheers, Matt Dawson, Luxembourg
  3. Hi, I want to place a CCD camera where the secondary mirror is, remove the sec. mirror completely. It,s a home made F5 14 inch. Do I have to use a coma corrector or/and a field flattener? Can I use a Barlow with a field flattener or coma corrector, can I use eye piece projection with a field flattener or coma corrector? Many thanks, Markus
  4. THIS ITEM HAS NOW BEEN SOLD. This listing is for my personal camera (Kayron from Light Vortex Astronomy). It is a QSI 660wsg-8 monochrome CCD camera with the onboard 8-position filter wheel and Off-Axis Guider (OAG). The camera has been extremely well kept and cared for. I am supplying them in the original QSI pelican case, alongside the power adapter (with EU and UK plugs), a new USB cable, the QSI Allen wrench set, the 2" adapter for the camera and the guiding cable. The camera's condition is as-new. The QSI 660wsg-8 requires a single USB connection to control both imaging and the filter wheel. It also cools to -45°C below ambient temperature. The CCD sensor is Sony's ICX694, which is extremely low noise requiring no darks whatsoever and having peak Quantum Efficiency of 77%. The readout noise is also extremely low at only 3.97e as per my own measurement. Its full well capacity is of 17,719e, also as per my own measurement. For more information, please see QSI's website: https://qsimaging.com/products/600-series/qsi-660/ Please note that this camera currently retails at just over £3,700 from UK suppliers, €4,400 from European suppliers or $4,200 from US suppliers. Payment is preferred via bank transfer but PayPal is OK with an extra 2.9% to cover PayPal fees. I'll cover postage to you via tracked Courier. I welcome any questions you may have regarding this listing. Thank you for looking.
  5. I have decided to buy an OSC CCD and have narrowed it down to a choice between AS129MC Pro and the ASI183MC pro. I would welcome some advice and comments on my reasoning. First, I know there is a good argument for going mono, but that’s for the future. I want to take it one step at a time. I am just about getting my head round guiding. My kit is a HEQ5-Pro Rowan Belt modified with mainly Explore Scientific ED APO 102mm f/7 focal length 712mm permanently mounted on a pier.. I also have a Celestron C8 but that’s for later. Until now I have been imaging with a Canon450D moded and a Canon 2000D. I have an ASI178MC (not cooled) that I bought to experiment with last year. I also have travel gear consisting of an AZ Gti WiFi on which I sit my DSLR with a Cannon 300mm lens, which is great for big targets like M31, Rosette Nebula etc After extensive reading on Forums etc I am leaning towards the ASI294MC-Pro. (but tomorrow I might change my mind) My reasoning is that the ASI1294 has a larger sensor size, 14 bit ADC vs 12 on the183; and larger pixels, and a greater full well capacity. So this means that the FOV will be only just a bit tighter than the my DLSR so with my ES102 I can still get good images of larger targets like M42 especially if I add an FR. Without the FR I can get smaller targets. I should also be able to use it with my Canon 300mm lens when traveling. It should also work well with my C8 when I start using that. I have also read that the larger pixels at 4.63um are more forgiving than the ASI183 that has 2.4um pixels especially when focussing. The ASI294 also has a much greater full well capacity, in theory providing greater dynamic range and less chance of blowing out stars. But I have a nagging doubt, because the ASI183MC pro although it has a smaller sensor size, is still quite decent and the tiny pixels mean that it has a resolution of 20mp compared with the 11mp of the ASI1294. So am I turning my back on greater resolution for my shorter focal length scopes? In the world of DLSR 20mp beats 11mp any day. Plus the ASI183 has an 84% QE! What brought it home was a test exposure I did with the old ASI178MC that also has 2.4um pixels, but a much smaller sensor. Using the ES102 I took 50 x 30 sec exposures of M27 (dumbbell) and compared them with results from the 450D on the C8. The FOV is the same, but the 178MC results were so much better. Any views most welcome.
  6. Hello everyone! I have recently been looking into deep-sky imaging, and related equipment. My telescope is a SW200p, and I already have an unmodded Canon EOS 1100D, but I've been thinking about moving into the world of CCD deep-sky imaging. My budget is approx. £500, and at that budget, the best I could get in terms of deep-sky CCDs is the Atik Titan (Mono). However, I was wondering whether I would get any major improvements over my DSLR, and whether it'd be the best use for my money. Here is what I know... Pros: Mono camera has capability of being used for luminance, and can use a variety of filters, as is not limited by RGB colours.I already have a filter wheel, so that is not a problem.Cooled CCD means less noiseLooks like it's a good option for fainter planets, with high sensitivity, and the potential for moderately high frameratesMore sensitive than most DSLRsCons: Much smaller number of pixels (and FOV width) than a DSLR - would need a very large mosaic for an object like M42Expensive!!Also, I couldn't help but compare it to the next models up, which happen to be twice the price (the 420L seems to be the next one up - £800!!). Would it be dramatically better to save up until next Christmas to buy something so expensive?! Any advice would be really welcomed! David
  7. I am deciding to jump in and purchase a used CCD camera. Some of you may already know of my plans as I have posted them on other popular fora a week back. I am in a dilema because one question plagues my mind. The Orion G3, being a started CCD is also easy on my pocket, specially a used one. The upside with it is that it is a perfect match for the GSO6" RC that I am buying this month (gives me 1.31"/pixel). However, it has a pixel array of ~ 750x520 which means that the full size image will still be quite small. Other than the small array, the chip does have some good characteristics like 50k full well capacity, low noise etc. Which other camera would match up to it and why? Any experiences anyone?
  8. Geoptik Nikon SLR Lens CCD Adaptor Bought 2nd hand in error, as I need the Canon lens adaptor. This is the Geoptiks 30A190 model designed for older (non autofocus) models of Nikon lenses. £ 50 + £5 postage (insured and signed for) to UK mainland. Paypal or cash on collection (from Worcester) or straight swap with the Canon version of this adaptor.
  9. I have just finished my update and translation of an article about the old astrograph at Observatory Saltsjöbaden. Here is an another article I wrote long time ago. Now translated to English and placed on my homepage. http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomy-articles/debris-finder/debris-finder.html This is a very exciting instrument built at Stockholm University. One of it's purposes is to detect the debris around young stars that maybe form planets later. Sub arc seconds resolution, Lucku Image, readout noise almost zero, visual and near IR. I find it very exiting and hope you also do that. /Lars
  10. Hey there, Curious about which CCD's you have been or are using successfully with auto guiding on a rpi2 or even a rpi3? lin_guider seems to support a bunch of manufacturers but a list of what models are proven to work with the Raspberry pi's will surely help my quest! Cheers for the help!
  11. Hello guys and girls, these are the first adventures of a new CCD user. I hope you'll have a bit to laugh i bought a used QHY8 from a fellow stargazer. It arrived yesterday. It was missing the documentation (but in the documentation was not part of the deal, so that's okay). After quite a while I got everything running (the Camara needs two power sources). As the weather was good for the first time in years, I immediately set up in my garden at 11 PM. First I was struck by a faulty USB cable - it took me about an hour and a half to isolate the problem as it was not constantly failing but intermittantly freezing the software and/or windows. But after that, i was able to shoot a few short moon sequences with APT. However, the result was less than optimal. I was getting pesky little black squares. I suspected something with debayering and asked APT's Ivo and the qhyccd forum for help. Ivo answered within about 30 mins, and after 2 or 3 messages everything was clear: the debayering settings in APT refer only to the display within APT, not to the saved images ! (I hear the more experienced SGLers ROFLing) After some updates and mouseclicks, i got nice little stacked images of the full moon. The next problem was the cooling: the unit cooled very well when connected straight to a power source, but with the QHY power converter in-between the cooling was mediocre (guessing from the outside temp of the casing). Also, the unit stubbornly said it was running at 25C, but the pictures were ok (yes, i know, moon pics dont have to worry about SNR, but still, they were ok, some test darks at 30 secs were also very ok). Well, to cut a long story short: the QHY8 does not have a temp sensor!!! Its supposed to cool straight away at max power. APT (and other software) is somehow getting wrong temp values. Finally, i used the QHY power converter for the sony chip and a second power supply for the cooling. The finding: the cooling via the QHY power converter was much weaker- even the fan went at a little lower rotation speed. Running through the second power supply, the unit cooled great. Possibly one of the cables was mistakenly sent instead of the original one- it looks suspiciously thin for a cable that is supposed to be transferring 36 watts at 12 volt. So, after several hours of silently swearing, everything works! Yay!!! PS: the suspiciously thin 36 watts cable (the cross diameter of the plug is 2.5mm):
  12. After reading the Sony star eater story I abandoned the brand and looking elsewhere. I used to be a nikonian/touched canon bodies only a handful of times but that should not bias my decision for the future. Any arguments for choosing one or the other? In this quick review they came up more or less even. I would like to monochrome-mod the camera and add a cold-finger-type cooling as well. And I know, there are cheaper mono astrocameras, like the asi1600mm-c arund, but that tiny creature covers only 1/4 of the frame of the 6D/D610. Full Frame CCD's are way too expensive for my budget except a few KAI-11002 based 2nd hand unit, but that piece of hardware has so low QE (H-a: 30%) and so high noise, that a microlens-stripped DSLR might fare better... (and still significantly cheaper) From my side: For canon: - I have a sigma ART 1.4/20 for EOS lens, currently used for videography but could make a great timelapser. - Canon has a somewhat shorter flange distance - in case I have space issues, abovementioned review quotes vignetting, due to the smaller throat diameter (nikon: 44, canon 54mm) - this is a topic in my case, I plan to use a Riccardi reducer on my apo scope. -Canon is broadly supported by the astrophoto community, has magic lantern firmware mods (whatever that means for astro...), etc. For nikon: -I do have and will keep my astro-modded D5100 for the time being. This means two sets of adapters.
  13. I just came across the MR16000MU-BH lightweight camera, is it any good for deep sky? Where should its price tag converge? (Haven't found any dealers' prices). Haven't heard the name around deep-sky photographers...
  14. I have been wondering, which is the better solution? The A7s and the dedicated ZWO ASI1600mm-cool astrocamera costs roughly the same. Leaving the A7s' Bayer array in place (of course removing the ICF) results that the effective light collecting area for H-alpha is ~1/4th of the total sensor area (~860/4=215mm2). The lucky thing is, that both the Bayer transmission and the cmos sensitivity is great at 656nm. Thanks to the unlucky transmission curves of the green and blue pixels, O-III at 500nm also takes a toll: here we are blessed with 3 pixels of the array (G+B) but both G and B filter components absorb around 50% here! Effectively in O-III, the a7s acts as a 322mm2 area monochrome camera. Considering that the Zwo has better cooling than the a7s can practically ever have (unless one completely disassembles it and sticks a dual-stage peltier on the sensors back), less-than-ideal transmission of the bayer filters AND camera-independent factors, like vignetting (depends on your scope and optical train), I would say the Zwo is at least equivalent if not better than the fullframe a7s. Meaning, that if you want to cover a certain LARGE area, you get there at the same time with mosaicing. However, if you target one object which fits the Zwo's field than it should be clearly superior, delivering the same results at ~1/3 exposure times. Does my line of thinking make sense? Can someone support it with experience? Monochrome modding of the A7s could be another step, however that kills the microlenses and results in a 20-30% light loss + costs a fortune if done professionally or plays Russian roulette with your wallet if you try scraping off the Bayer yourself.
  15. Morning all, Never done astro photography before, what ccd camera would be best suited to the CPC 800? Budget is limited to sub £750 but next year all going well and with some experience under my belt I'd like to move towards "HyperStar."
  16. From the album: 2015 Various

    recently found a cheap 16ic mono - a little old and kernakkered but does the job :) A stack of 7 or 8 subs of 300s 400s and 500s (kept increasing exposure length once good tracking had been established)
  17. Aenima

    Mono jupiter lu070m

    From the album: 2013/2014 planetary

    Lumenera lu070m - jupiter, 3x barlow in 200p/eq5 30+ fps

    © Aenima

  18. Hi Everyone, I have been trying to connect my QHY FW2 to APT and even though it establishes connection, I am unable to rotate the wheel with the software. No clue whats happening. The wheel is powered, connected to CCD and APT. But nothing after that. Someone please help
  19. Will show working demonstration in my observatory. A full hyperstar imaging setup: 1) Celestron 8 OTA (New retail price: £950) 2) Hyperstar V3 lens (New retail price: £990) 3) Starizona micro focusser with electronic control (New retail price: £600) 4) Starlight Xpress H9C one shot colour CCD camera (New retail price: £1700) Used, but in 100% working condition. New kit will cost upwards of £4240. I am offering at £2000. Please see astro images taken using this setup. Collection only please from South London, postcode BR3. Please contact via email so that we can exchange contact numbers and arrange a demo before purchase. Will show working demonstration in my observatory.
  20. Hi, When boring times comes it could be both fun and interesting to do some calculations. This time I did an Excel sheet over the three cameras: Atik 16200, Canon EOS 6D and ZWO ASI1600. I have the Canon 6D and wanted to see how time efficient it is compare to the others. In the Excel sheet it's possible to setup data for the cameras and object information, light pollution and readout noise and max level that shouldn't saturate (clipp). At the end you see how many sub images it takes to reach a given S/N, Signal / Noise ratio. It also calculate the total exposure time and dead time between images. It only compare pixel to pixel, not that the sensor area or the pixel size is different. Take a look here where I have wrote it down if you find it interesting: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency.html It's very simple so don't expect it to be perfect but you can have a lot of interesting information from it if you test with different parameters. You can download the Excel sheet if you find it interesting. /Lars
  21. Anyone have an Atik 314L+ Mono in good nick that s/he'd like to shift?
  22. Has anyone modified and used a car CCD reversing camera for use in a scope?
  23. Helo, i have CCD tracer talkcam. I have done modifiing (i took out lens so CCD sensor has nothing in front, i put adapter with infrared filter). I have problems with everything. When i put moon in focus every thing is just white. Other things are just black. I dont know which software for imaging (free software) is best. I have sometinh that came with camera and dont have much setup to set. Which software do you use for imaging (and what should I set up?). Does anybody have this camera?? any picture with it?? I tried some pics in daytime and magnification is veeeeery high. Am i doeing something wrong??
  24. Hi, I was asked on a Swedish forum to put an "Astronomical Dictionary" on my homepage. I have made a test page in an easy form. Astronomical related words linked to wikipedia. It aims to the beginners in astronomy so it should not be too complicated words. http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomical-dictionary/astronomical-dictionary.html Let me know if it's useful and and I shall add more words. /Lars
  25. Hi All, I have Maxim DL recognising my QHY9 as an ASCOM camera, but it simply isn't able to trigger the shutter. The camera shutter is easily triggered with both Ezcap and APT, but not Maxim. Any help would be highly appreciated.
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