wornish

After learning how to handle OSC camera data! ( must pay more attention) I downloaded the OP raw files. Here is my go using APP followed by a bit of PS. I then thought I would try the new Starnet software to remove all the stars then add the larger ones back. Its very interesting to see how much of the nebula info is captured in the background.

Thanks my bad... as usual🤐 I use a mono ASI1600 so not come across this before. I guess its best I just follow the thread and not embarrass myself going forward. - Sorry to intervene.

Been following this thread and just thought I would try your data in APP to see what happens. All the lights you shared are Grayscale, I thought the camera was one shot colour? As they are mono images there is nothing to tell which channel they are, red, green or blue. Not sure if I am missing something here.

Thanks for replying. I agree. I currently have the Esprit 100ED and the ASI1600MM-Pro camera the combination works well on my AZ-EQ6-GT mount. Its not a permanent setup so each time I have to go through the polar alignment and guiding stuff before capturing anything. I am getting better at gathering data and doing post processing. (not at your level by some way but learning all the time.) I was considering going for a reflector with more aperture and also longer focal length to capture smaller targets but it is becoming apparent that simply going for that might not give me what I am hoping for. Not sure the mount can cope with a focal length of say 2350mm, so that would need upgrading. Then the seeing where I am is not bad but not brilliant either. So in the end would it be worth it?

This discussion makes me realise I don't know enough about the interaction between all the variables when capturing a deep space images. Focal Length, Pixel size, pixel scale, viewing, FWHM, diffraction limit etc. I understand the basics but can't get my head around how each factor interplays. Is there a post anywhere that explains all of this in relatively easy to understand terms?

Are you running PI on a Windows machine or on a Mac ? The current version only works on Windows. If you are one Windows then the Readme.txt file included with the download gives some help if PI doesn't recognise it.

29 gig for a text editor? Just crazy 😲

For my level of coding nano works great. Its about as basic as it gets no frills.

This is a new one for me. I had a quick look and it seems version 3 has now been released. Be interested to see what anyone that uses it has to say.

I completely missed that. I wasn't aware of the new feature in 1.85. Thanks for pointing it out .👍

If you are patient and have a steady hand you could manually remove them in each sub using the PS Spot Healing Brush Tool 🙂 At least it lets you get some kind of image out of your hard won data. It also keeps you occupied when it's raining. Pixinsight has a Pixel Math process which makes removing trails a lot easier. Though they still have to be removed on each affected sub prior to stacking to get the best results.

I guess that If it's running INDI then it will support all the cameras that INDI supports. Even if ATIK removed the drivers you can always download them again and it will work. One thing that would worry me is trying to take any power from the USB ports. You will still need a powered hub to handle all the various parts of your setup.

OOPS you are right I should have double checked. . Sorry for the wrong info. It certainly is faster though.

The RPi is limited in how many USB connections it can power without issues. So, if you are going down the RPi route then be sure to get a powered USB hub as well if you plan on connecting multiple items on your mount. Mount itself + Guide Cam + Main Cam, ++ the list builds, perhaps a focuser + filter wheel + dew heater controller.

Make sure you go for the RPi 3B+ it has more memory. The 3B only has 512MB whereas the 3B+ has 1024MB. makes a big difference in performance.

This thread is over two years old. You might get more replies to your question if you start a new one. That said, your problem sounds like your focus is way out. The moon is a great target to check your focussing on point your guide cam at the moon and see what it shows. If the picture is very blurred then adjust the focus until it comes clear. Lock that position on your guide cam and then try again with PHD on stars.

I agree with the others on here. I don't have a fixed setup and all I do is polar align (using Sharpcap) then plate solve and slew to my target using APT GoTo++ . It works great. Don't have to do any other type of alignment and it saves a lot of time.

A really great image. The star field is a bit overpowering for me. I understand it is a result of bringing out the reflection nebula. There are always trade-offs and it depends on what you want to show in your image. Chance would be a fine thing! from my perspective.

I use a Raspberry Pi running Astroberry with a 7 port powered USB hub, and 4 channel dew heater controller on my mount, total cost less than £100 all works through WiFi and I run Kstars/Ekos on my Windows laptop indoors to control it all. It delivers almost everything the Eagle 3 pro does and saves me £1600. Have to agree the Eagle looks great though but its way out of my price range.

68 Hours ! Wow. My max to date is 2.5 hours, being in cloudy, rainy, windy, Cheshire. Your image is amazing well done.

Wim (wimvb) thanks for sharing your processing steps. The end result you achieved is simply amazing. Can I ask a couple of questions on what you did? How did you extract Luminance, simply clone the image and convert to grayscale or extract Lightness or some other method? What process did you use to do the noise reduction on the Luminance ? I am not in your league using PI but keen to learn.

very nice.

Both of you. Your skill in post processing is amazing.

Wow, just wow! The level of detail and the whole feel of the image is superb.

Can anyone share how to access the public data on the Liverpool Telescope? I have tried the website form but never been able to get any info back.