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FaB-Bo-Peep

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About FaB-Bo-Peep

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  1. Hi, did you ever try using this for any deep sky imaging or just visual?
  2. M63, (the Sunflower Galaxy). This image is the result of 72 minutes worth of data and I pushed my camera to 4 minute individual exposures, (my L-Pro light pollution filter again proved a worthwhile purchase). As I was capturing the data I was not at all confident about how the final image would turn out as the galaxy was positioned in the same area of sky as the moon which added to my usual light pollution woes. But it's safe to say this is my best image of this object so far and it makes me wonder what it would have been like if the moon was not out. I guess I will have to revisit it again at
  3. Absolutely stunning! What coma corrector do you use please as apart from the amazing image, I am also very envious of your lovely round stars.
  4. NGC 4565 - The Needle Galaxy. About 25 minutes worth of data. My Optolong L-Pro filter is working wonders from my very light polluted back garden and there are more faint fuzzy galaxies visible, (but not so much after jpeg compression has done it's thing). I would never have captured these without the filter as they would have been lost in the sea of light pollution. Imaging scope is a Skywatcher 250PDS mounted on an AZ-EQ6 GT. Imaging camera is a Canon rebel XS, (1000D).
  5. So after sorting out my out of focus guide scope I then had an amazingly quick polar alignment thanks to my ASI AIR Pro. Then I encountered challenge number 2 in that everything I set up to image transited behind various telephone wires running to houses in our area causing all sorts of funny colours as the various street lights reflected off them, (see 2nd photo). Anyway I did manage to obtain this image of M97, the Owl nebula. I captured some data before it went behind a telephone wire and then returned to it later in the night to capture some more once it had cleared the wire. Total data ac
  6. I've deliberated over this for ages but think it's time to let this go to a new home as I'm simply not using it and it's just sitting in it's box gathering dust which seems such a waste. It's been stored for many years and could benefit from a good clean, (which I will not attempt for fear of causing more harm than good). There is a small mark / scratch on the rear mirror which I've tried to show in the last photo but this does not impact its performance and of course the usual cosmetic wear and tear. The box states G-8 optical tube assembly but I believe this is a C8 yes?
  7. Thanks for all the advice, all very helpful for further development but sorting out the DSS settings has got me back to where I thought I should be. Here's a couple of very rough + ready DSS stacks onward processed with my very limited knowledge in Startools. While I fully appreciate they will not win any awards, I can at least say they are now better than my previous attempts which with the addition of the LPRO filter is exactly where I thought I should be p.s. please don't bother trying to process the stack in my original post, as jager945 points out, it has multiple issues largel
  8. Thank you so much jager945, I appreciate I've still got a long way to go on this journey but having implemented the DSS settings you linked to my results are far improved and already look better than last years attempts
  9. Thanks for the above reply, while I am always looking to progress, I am none the less confused as to why I cannot at least equal what I have previously achieved. Taking the points you mention: I will certainly look at this. Interesting, I am certainly drizzling for the first time this year, (using an ASIAIR PRO), and thought it only had positive impact but maybe not. ****Correction, I am "dithering" with the ASIAIR PRO, not even sure what drizzling is so need to check how this is happening**** I fully understand that flats would have a positive effect but to date I have
  10. Hi everyone, The attached is about 30 minutes of RAW files taken with a Skywatcher 250PDS, AZ-EQ6, Canon Rebel XS, (1000D), and Optolong L-PRO filter, stacked in DSS. This is very similar to my total integration time per target from previous years but no mater what target I attempt I'm simply just not getting results comparable to last year and the only thing I've added in the optical train is the Optolong LPRO which I can't think for one minute is my issue but next session I will try without it just as a test. Anyway, just in case I am messing up with the latest version of Star
  11. I've deliberated over this for ages but think it might be time to let this go to a new home as I'm simply not using it and it's just sitting in it's box gathering dust which seems such a waste. It's been stored for many years and could benefit from a good clean, (which I will not attempt for fear of causing more harm than good). There is a small mark on the rear mirror which I've tried to show in the last photo but this does not impact its performance and of course the usual cosmetic wear and tear. The box states G-8 optical tube assembly but this is a C8 yes? A Celestron
  12. I knew it, immediately after posting this question I found a little power button symbol in the app which when click says "Shut down ASI AIR PRO and APP", it's located in the wifi settings....... of course!
  13. Hi everyone, I feel very silly for having to ask this as I'm sure the answer must be staring me in the face but here goes. I just received my ASI AIR Pro and immediately backed up the original micro SD card and restored it to a blank and am now up + running with the newly created card with the original safely stored away. One silly question though, how do you safely shut the ASI AIR PRO down? Do you simply turn off the switch? That appears a sure way of corrupting something. I saw something on the web about shutting the app down and leaving it for 15 seconds before switching the AIR off but I
  14. A couple of shots of Jupiter along with 3 of it's moons from last night, (processed in slightly different ways). I managed to grab these before it disappeared behind the tree this time and it's safe to say they are my best so far. The raging storm that creates Jupiter’s great red spot has waned and turned the planet’s famous blemish to orange and although this is not always visible as the planet rotates, if you look closely at the outer edge, (at around the 11 o'clock position), you can just about see it before it disappears behind the planet. They are the results of some very short AVI f
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