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SyedT

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About SyedT

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  1. Just got a response from ZWO: 2600MM won't come this year but there is such plan next year
  2. The issue with these 16-bit APS-C sensors is that they're all colour e.g. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-2600mc-pro-usb-30-cooled-colour-camera.html and https://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/cameras/cooled-ccd/qhy-cooled-ccd-cameras/qhy268c-photo/ Same sensor, different companies. I'm getting in touch with both companies to see whether there is a mono version of the above on the cards, which would be perfect. I did hear of the QHY268 getting a mono version, but there don't seem to have been any updates since: http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=184422 EDIT: Just saw this https://www.qhyccd.com/bbs/index.php?topic=8252.0 Re: the iPolar, I did test it out yesterday. It's a bit more fiddly than the PoleMaster, but I was aligned fairly quickly. Didn't get to do any imaging as clouds rolled in, however, so the true test is yet to come.
  3. I think you'd be OK with the 1600MM and 300 second exposures. I used to have a 1600MM; my main issue was the 12-bit ADC giving posterisation in some scenarios, which is why I switched to CCD (Atik 490EX). However, all that may well change as there are 16-bit CMOS sensors being released, although I'm waiting for an APS-C size mono 16-bit sensor which would match well with my scope. For polar alignment, have you looked into getting an iOptron iPolar? It's an electronic polarscope which doesn't require a view of Polaris.
  4. You can have a look at one of my integrations here: I only did 300s subs due to inconsistent guiding because of wind/poor seeing etc. You can see there's a fair amount of background noise which means it doesn't look as "clean" as it should, despite a good overall integration time.
  5. I owned a set of Baader LRGB and NB filters. While they were great, they're no match for the Chroma set I replaced them with (managed to get them less than half price each as part of a package). I would go for it. The main issue with 3 nm NB is that it takes long exposure times to lift the histogram off the left edge, so you need to either have a fairly sensitive camera (the 1600MM definitely ticks that box) and a mount capable of guiding these. On the plus side, I'm yet to see those horrible halos you get with some filters!
  6. Very interesting find, thank you for that! It does seem like it would be a great match.
  7. I've become quite used to the pinpoint stars and lack of haloes which comes with my current setup, so wouldn't want to change scopes! Guess I need to keep looking around, perhaps a mono iteration of the 2600MC might be on the cards.
  8. Thanks David. The 294MM just about fits in M31 into the view. Ideally, I'd like a larger FOV than that. Any other suggestions? It would be nice to go to an FSQ106 and 50 mm filters, but it's not really an extra expense I can justify at the moment.
  9. Hi all, Switching back to refractor imaging for the winter, I'm not that happy with the FOV of my FSQ85 and Atik 490EX. I'm looking to go for a mono CMOS/CCD which will give a wider FOV, e.g. capture the full extent of M31 and some of the surrounding area. I do have a 1.01x EDP flattener which I can use to cover larger sensors, and use 7x36mm unmounted Chroma LRGB/NB filters. Would appreciate any pointers as to which direction to go towards. I've looked at some full-frame sensors, particularly the ZWO 6200MM and Atik 16200, but have been put off by the fact that the filters and imaging circle won't be large enough to cover these properly. Cheers
  10. You only tend to learn that over time. You'll find that every time you back to an image, you'll want to change something. That's OK, but as vlaiv has said, you should only push it as far as it lets you. I find the community on here very helpful if you ask for specific feedback, and that will certainly help you to process images better. As for the guiding, my rule is that if the stars are tight and there's no significant drift across the frames, then it's probably fine! The graph at times doesn't tell the full story.
  11. Guiding has been a frustration at times. The Avalon M-Uno is great in terms of requiring fewer counterweights/no meridian flip/no backlash etc, but that comes at the cost of being more susceptible to wind and even the slightest imbalance. I've been running 300s subs in luminance for M31 and that's lifting the histogram easily off to the right. For my NB subs, I'm just about getting the histogram off the left edge to avoid clipping, but 600s subs as a minimum would be ideal, particularly as my filters are 3 nm. Annoyingly enough, pretty much all of last night's subs came through fine (M31 Lum 300s) despite it being pretty windy!
  12. Welcoming back an old friend... Despite the winds, the mount held its own and I've managed to use all of my subs from tonight! (some may go in the bin later, but let's not go there)
  13. Thanks for the feedback! I was aiming for 600 second subs as a minimum since that's what I tend to go for in NB, but a combination of poor seeing and therefore bad guiding meant I couldn't do that and had to settle for 300 seconds. I guess the next step would be to take a bunch of longer subs and add them on.
  14. I find the Wizard Nebula fascinating and have wanted to capture it for a long time. The shape is so well-defined, and the surrounding Ha nebulosity adds further to its eeriness. I was quite surprised by the amount of detail provided by the SII. As always, I welcome any advice from the experts on the forum! I tried to lay off the noise reduction to avoid losing detail, hopefully it worked. Some of the frames were taken under not so ideal skies, so I feel adding more integration time would help with noise reduction etc. For now, 26.5 hours is more than enough! Equipment: Atik 490EX Atik EFW2 Chroma NB filters Primaluce Lab Esatto 3” Robotic Focuser Takahashi FSQ85-EDX Takahashi EDP Flattener 1.01x Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2 + Tecnosky 70 mm guidescope Avalon M-Uno QHYCCD PoleMaster Pegasus Ultimate Powerbox Intel NUC Mini PC Acquisition: Ha: 77 x 300s = 385 min = 6h25min OIII: 120 x 300s = 600 min = 10h SII: 120 x 300s = 600 min = 10h Processed in AstroPixelProcessor & Pixinsight Bortle 5/6 skies
  15. When I was using a ZWO ASI 1600MM, I found that it was very sensitive to even slight changes in settings/stray light. You're doing the right thing by using flat darks, as the low exposure time for bias settings can cause the camera to behave unpredictably from my experiences. I would suggest you check your settings, and even if they're fine, to re-take the flats with the rest of the scope/camera covered up to ensure there's no stray light entering the imaging train.
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