Waldemar

The warmth of the sensor cause that maybe... I never had any of my telescopes fogging up on the inside, but I don't use a DSLR, only on holidays. Kind of a weird problem... but there is always something to learn...

The only way that can happen is when you take the cold scoop into a warm room. It always needs time to warm up slowly, better still put it in a place with outside temperatures like an unheated shed after you used it. The way to get rid of the moist inside the OTA is to leave it open, so without an eyepiece, so it can dry out. No harm will be done.

The purpose of a dew band is not to heat the glass, but to warm the air in front of the glass just a few degrees, so the relative humidity of the air will be lower and moist wil not precipitate on the glass.

Carl, it is nearly impossible that the inner glass of your telescope fogs up... As Neil said, attach your dew strap around the dew shield and it will work fine.

Any 12v converter with more then 2,5 Amps will do

Not entirely correct... Germany's VAT tariff is 19%, so you pay about 5% extra if you wait too long

I would say the Photon f5 Newtonian is your best bet. It focuses with DSLR camera's and your HEQ5 should be able to handle it easily . The other two are both achromats, wich means chromatic aberration: red and blue fringes around stars.

I.m.h.o. Baader Hyperion zoom is the best. : Baader Hyperion Universal Zoom Mark IV, 8-24mm eyepiece (1¼" / 2") (baader-planetarium.com) Not cheap though...

Sorry, It is definitely a nice mount, but exaggerating it's capacity is not in the best interest of the OP

Congratulations Stu! That is a very nice Christmas surprise indeed!

To find that out, maybe you can borrow a better ep from a fellow astronomer or a local club.

The required spacing is not always the right one. The only way to get the right spacing is by trial and error with an adjustable spacer like this one: Baader VariLock 29, lockable T-2 ExtensionTube 20-29mm with spanner tool (T-2 part #25Y) (baader-planetarium.com) a 29-46 mm spacer is available too. This will show you which way to adjust: FF distance to sensor.docx Of course if your spacing is too large because of your rotator and filter system, you may have to find thinner gear or settle with a not perfect distance. Only way to find out is to try...

Don't you think that a great tool like this will work better if it is perfectly centered in the receptacle? A nosepiece like the SCA adapter of Hotech would do the job a lot better then the screws in a standard holder to get this nice tool centered properly.

The dew point is not a set temperature... it is depending on a couple of factors: ambient temperature, relative humidity, transparency of the air which influences the radiation of the drop of ambient temperature. Dew point - Wikipedia .Another factor is ventilation. If you are going to use a Telegismos 365, never close it up. Leave the bottom at least a bit open so there can be ventilation, even when you use the mentioned heaters.

Telegizmos 365 covers are meant to be used 24/7 365. : TeleGizmos They are available in a lot of sizes and even custom made. To keep the temperature just above dewpoint, you can use snowboot heaters or a small terrarium heater. Some people use lightbulbs, but that is tricky...Too hot and chance of breaking glass with fire as the outcome.

No stupid questions, just dumb answers 🙂 Yes, no problem as long as you make separate flats for both filters wich is obvious of course. succes and have fun!

Did you thank your grandson for respecting your expensive equipment?

As shown in your attached picture, you already seem to have the right cable. It is even connected to the power unit and the connector for the mount is laying on the floor next to the charge unit... Try to avoid those 🤬cigarette connectors! they really s...

Very good point! One more reason to buy a Hotech SCA laser collimator...

and another vote for the Hotech

This: batteries - LiFePo4 vs LiPo - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange will tell you the differences.

In fact your best option is to get soldering skills and knowledge about electric circuits and build your own powerbox, using quality parts. Simple electrickery is no rocket science 😁

The powersupply you linked to, is a jumpstarter, meant to provide a very high Amps output for a very short time to start cars... What you need is a battery that can deliver a low Amp output for a long time. A totally different kind of battery, called deep cycle battery. The best would be a LiFePO4 battery, which can deliver constant power until it is almost empty, while the lead-acid batteries you are mentioning drop below 12 Volts very fast and make your equipment not doing the things you want it to do. The difference in price is not because it can be used for astro purposes, but because it is a totally different type of battery, with a far better output and also far longer lifespan. Be aware that the so called cigarette lighter connectors are exactly that: to light cigarettes, not for constant power use. The plus connectors (tip) of the plugs are spring loaded and tend to work themselves out of the ports to make a bad or non contact when you least expect it. I really don't understand why astro companies still use those 🤬 things for such expensive equipment. Must be economics... Just use connectors that are made for the purpose of constant full contact.

Once you got it all loose, I would replace the CW bar with a stainless steel bar, so this problem will be gone for ever. of course you can also sand down the bar until all the rust is gone and then treat it with nano technology to prevent it from happening again.

The best placing is as close to the sensor as possible, to diminish the chance of vignetting, but also to prevent reflections. That is not so easy with a 1.25" filter for a DSLR... i.m.h.o. the better choice would be a clip-in filter or a 2" one. In your case a T-ring adapter with an option to mount a 1,25" filter would be the best. I don't know what brand of camera you have, but something like this would do the job: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-25-t-adapter-Canon-EOS-t-ring-with-filter-thread-For-telescope-Prime-focus/161206445324