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Owmuchonomy

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Owmuchonomy last won the day on October 2 2018

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About Owmuchonomy

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Rejuvenated childhood interest in Astronomy. Photography, cycling, classic rock and cars.
  • Location
    Lime Tree Observatory, N. Yorks

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  1. Hi Adele, welcome to SGL. Regarding lightweight for a backpack, don't discount a good pair of binoculars. If you are happy to use resources such as the book Turn Left at Orion to find targets then it may be a good starting point. Enjoy.
  2. Whichever camera gives you the most appropriate resolution and field of view to get it all in. What scope are you using? There is no advantage to using a modified DSLR (assuming it is modified for Ha sensitivity) with that particular target.
  3. That's a super image from just down the road.
  4. Very nice purchase. You say it's front end heavier than the ED150? Thats heavy! The ED150 could do with a composite hood instead of the metal one to reduce that issue. Enjoy.
  5. Mars is pretty small now; about 5" so will be quite underwhelming. It should be just discernible as a disk using your 9mm EP though.
  6. All good advice above. I'm not as clever as those guys so I use a simple formula whereby the ideal focal length is 5x your chip pixel size. So if your pixel size is 5 microns you need to aim for f/25; for 3 microns, f/15. That said there are other factors I also find critical, predominantly defeating the seeing conditions. That is all about collecting frames during the best seeing so I aim for at least 80fps and use an IR pass filter where possible. As @vlaiv says aim for very fast shutter speeds and a high gain setting. I use flat frames but never bother with dark frames for lunar with
  7. We use Lunt and PST specifically designed Ha solar scopes. We do not attempt WL observing. We also give a preamble on never looking at the Sun without properly designed equipment supervised by experienced solar observers. Never leave the equipment unattended. We had a great turnout for the Mercury transit.
  8. If you purchase a solar filter (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html) for your 150 PDS you will be able to image in white light only. You could make your own with Baader film too. The only features you will pick up are sunspots or in periods of great seeing you may resolve some surface granulation. You can use your Nikon at prime focus but it's best to take high frame rate video and stack the results to get a final image. Best to use your ZWO ASI 120MM but check with the FOV calculator on the FLO site to see how much of the solar disk you can acco
  9. It's a great topic for our visitors, and then I start explaining the (original source) wavelength of the light captured in these images by our mundane camera sensors and what that means. Minds blown!
  10. At 8 billion LY distant, the sudden brightening in 2016 of a Quasar (CTA-102) in Pegasus is probably the most distant visual target I have shared with visitors to the obsy. Attached is an image captured too.
  11. In order to satisfy your desire for long exposure astrophotography you have to remove all the artefacts produced by the Earth’s rotation, for example, star trails. To do that you need a device that is perfectly aligned to the Earth’s axis and rotates at the same pace as the Earth. That device is an EQ mount. The mounts are often fitted with polarscopes perfectly aligned to their axis. The orientation of other attachments such as cameras and telescopes is largely irrelevant. ‘Attaching’ a polarscope won’t give polar alignment. Your best bet is to invest in a decent EQ mount or try one of the el
  12. It's a beautiful target and so rich in fuzzies.
  13. I hope you can solve the problem. Try and separate the two main functions of GoTo accuracy and PA accuracy. They are not necessarily completely interdependent. For observing it is a high priority for accurate GoTo but PA accuracy is less critical. For imaging it is very important to achieve very accurate PA but your mount must also be in tip top condition, without backlash in the axes for example. For accurate GoTo I would suggest you use the 3 star alignment as in your original set up. This process adjusts for cone error in your setup. Make sure when aligning stars in your eyepiece tha
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