tooth_dr

You image reminded me very much of the one that won the Astronomy Photographer of the Year competition recently. As bobro has indicated there is something wrong with the alignment or spacing or tilting to create stars that are in focus in one area and out of focus in another. Post a few photos of your setup to see what could be wrong if you dont mind.

Thanks. The filter holder is for using with a telescope only, you are right that a lens wouldn’t work. I did that print for someone on here to allow them to try existing/cheaper 1.25” filters.

Keep us updated on the outcome 👍🏻

I had thought about this using type of setup up for tracking but thought it wouldn’t work. Calibration will require a fairly hefty calibration step for sure.

A real quality image. Very nice and all the best with the new house.

Thanks Peter. I wasnt expecting much difference in vignetting, and maybe even a reduction in vignetting? Did you see much difference?

I'm considering mounting a filter either in front of a lens or inside of the camera (Nikon D800E). The latter is more expensive and only available in limited types, but clearly the more versatile option meaning I can use the camera with both a scope or lens. As an aside I am going to use step down rings to reduce the aperture of my 180mm lens, as it performs better at F4, and I dont like the spikes that the diaphragm makes. Reducing from the fully open aperture of 65mm to 45mm means F2.8 to F4. 45mm also conveniently corresponds to the size of the inside of a M48 mounted filter, so a step down to a 48mm ring and then screw in the filter. What would be the disadvantages of such a setup, and would these outweigh the benefits from an internally fitted clip in filter. Thanks Adam.

Before and after with the CLS filter, 35mm lens F5.6, 30s exposure

Very nice Rachel, that's a brilliant start, and well worth persisting with your current kit. I wouldnt necessarily aim for longer exposures, just get more of them. 90s is pretty good and should be getting the histogram far enough right to mean that you wont necessarily gain more from longer subs, and just likely find there is more to go wrong ie trailing and lost subs.

Thanks. The JTD rig is now fitted under the ED80, with the DSLR on the ED80 dovetail and the solar scope on top. I had no problem adjusting it last night, and it seems to be hold well. It's a pretty heavy item though, but although expensive, I actually think it's good value given how well it's puts together. ADM stuff is certainly a lot more expensive, and not any better made.

I am experimenting with my DSLR hanging underneath a dovetail courtesy of an APM bracket. Seems to be working ok so far - the sky is not great here at all but getting something at least tonight.

Well it’s coping ok with 12 devices. However it did fail to restart one exposure there and remained ‘syncd’ on APT instance #3, so I’ve dropped it to 290s to allow it time to download before the other cameras download at 300s. Will see how that goes.

Good to see you back Rodd. I prefer M45 like this with a bit of space around it. My M45s always looks crammed in.

Good point! I thought that it might overwhelm the PC. Currently running two cameras, the mount, the dome, a Hitec Astro hub, two focusers, guide camera and PHD2, all on an old HP machine Intel duo core 2.13ghz 4gb ram, and I though that might just tip it over the edge. It only has 6 USB ports, and I'm already using 11 USB devices connected to it. The second PC runs an all sky camera, and nothing else so thought it would make more sense to share the load. However, I might just try what you are suggesting now and see if it copes.

I have two PCs, and three instances of APT open. On PC1 I have two scopes running with CCD cameras and on PC2 I have a Nikon DSLR and lens. In the GUIDE settings on PC1 in APT - Camera 1 = SERVER and Camera 2 = CLIENT. On PC2 - the Camera is set to CLIENT I want to coordinate dithering on both systems so that all exposures are syncd. Currently this works perfectly with PC1 on it's own. But it doesnt work on PC2 - it just starts taking the exposures regardless of the state of PC1. I have went through the instructions and on PC2, I have adjusted the GUIDE setting to use the IP address for PC1. It says connected on the little log menu and displays the graph for 'PHD state' so PC2 does appear to be communicating successfully with PC1. But when I start to take exposures on PC2 I get this message below. (Please note I also pay for this software, but I only recently installed it on PC2 and I havent got around the adding the licence details) Any advice welcomed Adam.

When you say downsampling do you mean (in simplest terms) just making it smaller in terms of pixel dimension?

Absolutely. There is an extra £100-150 in the budget too. That would get something decent?

Thanks @smr

A new product, with limited sales, showing a trend of similar defects, early in it's lifespan? I think it would be sensible to see what way things pan out.

Can you post links to any info or images? I'm in the market for a new camera and just debating on what to go for. The oil is a bit of issue, easily resolved, but shouldnt happen given the stage that ZWO are at in their company evolution. A repeat of the 1600 perhaps?

You should buy a LPF and start guiding. Ive attached a screenshot of my old house location - I used a CLS filter and took 300s subs - without it 30s was washed out. So £400: Skywatcher finderscope with adapter for T mount camera, ZWO 120 camera - FLO have a package of this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/sky-watcher-9x50-finder-adapter-zwo-asi120mm-bundle.html LPF - £150 for the CLS CCD ( or a little more for other brands and less for cheaper versions. Leaves you a few quid for brackets or adapters. I’m not sure what attachment you use but you could attach the finderscope to the L-bracket via a finder shoe holder: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/finder-mounting-shoe.html

I’m only learning to design, have signed up to a course starting next week. Here are some items from thingiverse I printed with threads this week.

Those look nice! I’ve been dipping my toe in 3D printing and have been surprised how nicely threads etc can come up.

Beautiful image Richard. Processing and everything exceptional. I have had two partially clear night since September 👎🏻

Just because the money is burning a hole in your pocket doesn’t mean you must spend it! However as an option have you considered an autoguiding setup. It will only work in RA with the SA but would be transferable to a new mount in the future.