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About kbrown

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  1. kbrown

    Tripod Tray (on steroids)

    Thanks guys! The power bank is this one: https://www.amazon.com/MoKo-Multi-function-Emergency-Cigarette-Flashlight/dp/B01J0RXAV4 It has received mixed reviews but mine has been okay so far. I've only ran a single dew heater of it so far though. Had no trouble keeping it on for 5 hours straight in sub-zero temperatures. I think it had about 60% left when I re-charged it. Remains to be seen what happens when I put my cooled CCD, filterwheel and focuser behind it. Might have to get another one as a backup and come up with some kind of a hot swap system...
  2. kbrown

    Tripod Tray (on steroids)

    Long time no updates. This project is still alive though. Finally getting somewhere with it. I now have a way to attach the battery, raspberry pi, usb hub and a gps module to the tray without having to modify them. All that is left to do is the power distribution and wiring really. Topside. Just the USB hub here at the moment. Underside. Battery, Raspberry Pi and GPS module. Here's how it sits on the tripod.
  3. kbrown

    Preparing for the upcoming lunar eclipse

    Possibly. You can bias the exposure down a few stops though. I'll do some tests before the event begins. Guess the metering mode will affect things too. What is APT? Sounds like your approach will yield to less flickering.
  4. Hello, Weather permitting I'm planning to go and image the upcoming lunar eclipse on Monday morning 21st. I'm thinking of attaching a Canon 60D on my Skywatcher 250PX Newt (10" / 1200mm x 0.9). The entire moon will fit in the image leaving some background around it. The scope will be on an NEQ6 mount which will be guided if I can find a suitable star in the guider scope FOV. I'd like to take a time lapse of the whole event which I can do using Magic Lantern on the camera. My only concern is the exposure as the brightness of the moon will vary a lot during the eclipse. Do you think I could rely on one the Camera's pre-programmed exposure modes such as the AV mode where everything else is locked except the length of exposure? Obviously this will lead to some flickering in the final result but that can be smoothed out later. Any other tips are welcomed too! Ta, Kari
  5. While I could just use my camera ball head attached on the free bolt on the L-bracket and make an adapter that would allow me to put the finder scope on it, I thought I'd explore my original idea a bit further. Mainly to see if I can overcome the challenges I've faced and learn something but also to keep the overall weight of the kit down. Here's a clamp style variation that seems to hold up a lot better than my original design. I printed it in two parts and glued them together. This allowed me to print them in orientation optimal to the structural stresses when in use. I can now tighten the M6 wingbolt quite hard and it's not crackling at all. It's also quite easy to roughly match the DEC angles between the primary and guide scope.
  6. Bah. Don't think this design will hold up as is. Not 3D printed at least. No matter which way I print it, it will crack (layer separation) when I tighten the locking screw. Might have to thread the end of the rod and fasten it between two nuts or something...
  7. I feel ya... Living in London without a garden and working fulltime doesn't help either. Some statistics say that at any given moment 75% of the planet earth is covered in clouds... Booo!
  8. Exactly. I remember someone here (thinking of) putting the battery there. Perfect counterweight and would serve a purpose.
  9. I'd rather have it at this end of the rod than on top of the scope as I'm already pushing the capabilities of this little tracker with all my gear attached.
  10. I'm sure it'll work as the calibration figures out which way it should do the corrections...
  11. Inspired by an article I saw online a while back I thought I'd design and print a similar guider scope holder for my Skywatcher Staradventurer's counterweight shaft. It'll be RA guiding only but I'm hoping to at least improve the nasty periodic error it seems to suffer from. The holder accepts the standard Skywatcher finder scope shoe. I've put helicoil thread inserts in the holes for the locking screws so it should last a bit better. Only issue I have is the structural strength of it. I get layer separation if I tighten the butterfly screw too much. I'll print another one in another orientation to see if that's stronger / strong enough.
  12. kbrown

    3D Printed Spool Holder (off topic)

    Yes, I felt a little silly for printing a print for the printer to be able to print better prints :D Anyway. The accuracy of the prints is a variable. It depends on the printer itself, the diameter of your nozzle, the layer height, the shapes you're trying to print and the orientation of the object you're printing to name a few things that'll affect the accuracy. For example with a large nozzle the tight corners will be more rounded. This may or may not be a problem. With higher layer height you loose some detail too. And of course the more detail you want, the slower it'll print. But with some care you can get around these problems. This was all printed at 0.2mm layer height (including the internal and external threads) with a 0.4mm nozzle. Took a little trial and error to find suitable tolerances for the threads to work smoothly. In practise I had to model the tolerances into the threads before printing. Same goes for the hole/shaft diameters where the bearings go. My printer seems to be fairly accurate on external diameters but internal diameters end up a tiny bit too tight so I have to factor that in in the model too.
  13. Okay, not directly astro-related but since there's a few of us using 3D printers here I though I'd share this with you. I essentially got tired of failed prints due to some cardboard spools (namely Realfilament) not rotating properly on the non-rotating stock spool holder of my Prusa i3 Mk3. The fails were mainly due to excess force required to pull the filament off the spool causing the extruder gears to slip and sometimes the filament just didn't go past that point at all or momentarily. The print (extrusion) just either stopped prematurely or there was bad layer adhesion here and there weakening the finished print. So I decided to design and print a spool holder with tapered bearings. The holder will sit on the "roof" of shelf I have my printer on so it's not going to cause any vibrations to the printer frame either. Here's what I came up with:
  14. kbrown

    DIY Refractor

    I'll definitely look into that one at some point. Just ordered a 0.6mm and 0.8mm E3D V6 nozzles. Should help a little...
  15. kbrown

    3D printed Solar Tracker/Compass

    I like it. Has that sort of retro feel! What filament is that light brown one you're using for the main bits?

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