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kbrown

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About kbrown

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Location
    London
  1. Finally got around completing this mod. Wasn't easy to enlarge the existing holes on my old SW counterweights without a pillar drill. I managed to do it with a step drill bit to get a clean start for a 27mm HSS cobalt twist drill and plenty of WD40. My arm still aches though I then 3D printed bushings to bring the hole sizes down to the required 25mm for the new shaft. Not sure how long those will last but so far so good.
  2. The T-Ring is on the ASI so I could put the 1.25" nosepiece on it. This is the closest I could get the ASI to the Quark with what I have. I tried unscrewing the 1.25" receptable off the Quark but that revealed a thread that I couldn't recognise or use with anything. Maybe I'll try imaging with my QHY5L-II instead. Smaller sensor but at least it's mono...
  3. Hi, I'm not new to astroimaging per se but I am new to solar imaging and could use some help to get my rig set up correctly. I've recently bought a Daystar Quark Chromosphere "eyepiece" but have had very few opportunities to actually use it. I'm using it with a 72mm F/6.9 achromatic refractor. I was testing it the other day with my ZWO ASI183MC Pro (I know, mono would be better), but wasn't able to achieve focus. This was probably mainly due to clouds always obscuring the sun a bit but still I was disappointed not to be able to see more than a blurry white blob no matter what I did. I had the Quark after my diagonal and the camera attached to it using the 1.25" nosepiece together with a 11mm T-ring. Does this sound correct? I haven't been able to find information on how close/far away the sensor should be from the Quark. Any insight on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Kari
  4. Of course. I've attached the models here. You shouldn't need to use any supports if you print the "plug" and the "tube" upside down. ChesireEyepiece.zip
  5. I know this isn't directly helping you but I thought I'd still point this out. You can get a cheap USB GPS module such as Stratux Vk-162 which will work with gpsd in Linux. INDI has a driver that talks to gpsd (indi_gpsd). This is what I'm using with the indiserver running on my RPi3. Works well with Kstars/Ekos as the client on my laptop.
  6. Search for "D C FIX Velour Black Velvet". That's what I used...
  7. Thank you! I did yesterday. Still waiting for an answer
  8. My PETG prints have been alright although it doesn't get much colder than 0C here. I still wouldn't use them for anything that requires heavy duty structural strength. Print orientation matters as layer separation can be a problem even if it doesn't get cold.
  9. Why did I read this as "Your wife will never be the same again..."
  10. I got it from ebay (item 152427520030). Took a while to arrive as it came from China.
  11. Went ahead and ordered the 5kg version in the view of enlarging the bores of my old weights so I can add them onto the new shaft too. Couple of questions though. Is the kit supposed to come with a safety screw that goes onto the end of the shaft? Mine didn't. Also is it supposed to come with scrub screws for locking the collar in place? These are missing too
  12. I made a wire harness using this technique:
  13. How about folding your old cable and putting it in a flexible sleeve?
  14. Back in the days when I used my DSLR (Canon 6D) for AP, PI was rather slow to process the CR2 files. Things were a bit smoother when I first converted everything to fits or xisf format. By default you'll get those anyway as soon as you start outputting new files. How much RAM do you have? I notice that was a big bottle neck with my old laptop...
  15. I have to look into the paracorr in detail. Might work albeit expensive solution.
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