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I don’t know for sure as I only have one working AF3. But I do have the housing the an AF1 and it’s the same size.

From Pavle: ”Yes, you can run 2x AF3 on same PC. You have AF3 (1) and AF3 (2) in ascom selection:”

Thanks for the link, hadn’t noticed that update! Looks promising. I’ve sent Pavle an email. I update this thread with any information from Pavle.

Thanks Dave. I do run two Atik EFWs, it just pops up the a drop down box with serial numbers and I pick the right one. If confirmed that two AF3s don’t work then will need to buy something else.

Does anyone know if it’s possible to have two running at the same time? Thanks Adam.

I've been in discussion with Ron at Moonlite in an attempt to sort out issues I'm having with my Moonlite focuser on my Tak 180. I have the older 2.5" Moonlite CRL focuser and Ron has offered to do an upgrade to the new high capacity body style with C-axis collimation design and bigger bearings. I'm keen to get this done. I was wondering if anyone has done this; how you posted it eg RM or DHL etc; and did you get charged customs? Thank Adam.

Paul - thanks! Yes there is a little blue patch, and some faint Ha streaks. I dont think the stock camera is too good in the red

Oh dear 🙁 I’ve the same scope too - not an ideal situation at all. Should be easily removed with vice grips and replacements will be pretty standard M4 or M5 (guessing from pics) bolt and easily obtainable. Not trying to rub salt here but was there a reason you needed to remove the mirror from the cell?

Quantity over quality. Jupiter and Saturn - I guess around 90% of the aperture was covered by bottom of the dome opening. Uranus - well it's a first for me. Mars - its red with a hint of the polar ice cap. With the exception of Uranus, these were taken using a Skyris 618C - I think this is only the second or third time I've used this camera since I bought it. I had originally intended to spend the evening doing a timelapse of Mars, which is the reason I was using the OSC camera. The weather didnt cooperate so I ended up with a nice selection of the planets. My wife came in this morning from the gym to say she has just seen Venus, and I had a look at Neptune last night (but didnt image it) so it was a good haul overall! planets-281020.mp4

Thanks for this. I know that there are several users with Epsilons that think the focusers are ok. I'm tempted to see if Takahashi in France will take a look at it and try to fix it. If it was to work properly, I was planning on fitting the DSD AS3 focuser to it, as he does list a 3d bracket for it.

Thanks for the link. Having a look now.

Takahashi have been helpful and have sent me diagrams and instructions. The issue I currently have is with the stock focuser. It’s poor and needs sorted out. It’s sloppy with lateral movement, very disappointing. The Tak is currently off the mount and I’ve been using my old 10” to get some images of Mars. I plan to get the Tak back on the mount next week as I’ve got about as far I can with Mars. Hi Tony. The stock focuser isn’t good, I suspect it has a fault. I don’t think I’ll be selling the Moonlite, as I will aim to get it back on again, it’s just 100x nicer.

I’m looking some help regarding setup. I’ve quite a bit of kit not being used, so I’ve decided to try and use it! I have a star analyser 100 that I want to get occasional use from. Here are my options: 1) put it into the last spare filter wheel slot, used in conjunction with an Atik 383L+ and ED80 (at 522mm). 2) I have a spare mono camera - a Lumenera LU070 mono CCD with 7.4um pixels. I spent an hour earlier using adapters to get it to work with a Canon lens. I have a few lenses that I can use from the standard 18-55mm to a 55-200mm lens and a nice 105mm F2.8 lens. I was planning on putting the SA100 within the adapter so it will be close to the camera sensor. 3) open to other suggestions ... Thanks! Adam

Thanks! It was part of a larger 3 panel mosaic with the shark. I well have that data sitting here.

Brilliant job and excellent processing! How does drizzling at x1 work? I’m on the border of square stars too so am very interested.

Can you post a photo! I’m not sure how you plan on connecting everything?

Really really nicely done and framed!

Are you trying to image through the finderscope or use it for guiding? The focus on a 9 x 50 finderscope is done by rotating the objective lens, and locking into place using the thin black threaded part that sits below the body of the objective lens. I use a camera with a 12.5mm back focus on my 9 x 50 finderscope and when it's is threaded up fully, via an adapter, it sits flush with the end of the finderscope tube. So my sensor sits 12.5mm from the edge of the metal. I suspect the sensor/flange distance on the Pentax is about 46mm so you will need to move the camera closer to the objective lens or thread the object lens further down the tube. I dont think you will have 33mm to spare (pretty sure it wont work). Even if it does work, it wont be very nice quality. Sorry!

Thanks Andrew, appreciate the comment.

Thanks Olly. I do plan on continuing my process of using the ED80 for lum data so I think I need to work on that aspect of my imaging.

I did debate whether to post this or not, but given the total lack of clear sky prospects for deep sky imaging, here it is! I have spent many many hours trying to process this, and gave up. The scope wasnt collimated properly and as such the stars etc are disappointing. This was my first attempt at OSC with the Nikon D800E and Epsilon. It represents 4 hours 20 minutes of 5 minute exposures, ISO 400. Having said all that, it does seem that this camera is leaps and bounds ahead of my Canon 40d. Thanks for looking! Adam

Hello Carole, sorry for the delay in replying. The luminance data was 85 x 3 minutes = 4 hours 15 minutes And the colour as follows: red 18 x 5 minutes, green 18 x 5 minutes, blue 17 x 5 minutes = total RGB = 4 hours 25 minutes Total integration time was 8 hours and 40 minutes. Thanks very much. The scopes are on the same mount, and are aligned using a very rudimentary system. I dont have access to a lot of machines, so I make do with a pillar drill, a bench grinder, a set of hand files, and cheap set of threading taps. I have also bought a set of feeler gauges to do the final vertical adjustments. I'll post some photos later, its functional but not pretty. Thanks Bob, much appreciated.

Hi Olly. I did push the colour during combining, perhaps I should have done it first!? Thanks Adam.

I agree with this. Can’t you just image the Horsehead with the camera as it is, from your Bortle 4 location?

Thanks again! I wonder is dewing on the mirrors much of a problem, and are heaters needed?