tooth_dr

I have been following your thread with interest. I have a metal pier also, and it's dry inside, so it is quite strange to see yours soaking wet. Do you run a dehumidifier?

Thanks for the link 👍🏻 A useful tool indeed

No problem. I think every other one should be ok, as with 4 minute subs, you would lose too much % of time. Some of the guys using the new CMOS cameras dither every 5 subs due to short exposure times.

I would dither between each sub, if 300s or longer, you could do the same or even dither every other one.

I switched from 120MM to 290MM as an OAG at 1200mm. Its very sensitive, and have multiple stars to choose from in PHD

I would take what I say with a pinch of salt Martin, and certainly wasnt intended as a criticism. It's a very natural looking image.

That’s a really good image and fair play to you manually dithering. I’m fairly sure I read somewhere you can use software like Nina to do a dither even without guiding, but as it’s not something I use myself so can’t be 100%

There really is detail right down to the smallest level. Nice to see a little grain, I think this is preferable to an overly smooth image.

I did use a 50% 50% blend of Oiii and Sii, and then added it to the Ha at 15%, but I didnt use lighten, just normal combine! There is so much to learn.

This is what I did, the Ha was my baseline and I adjusted the other channels up to that level. But the Ha was noisy too, so perhaps I just stretched that too much as well.

Lovely Goran. That filter is very interesting. It’s well matched for the RASA8 and looks ideal for my epsilon.

Hi Tony. Starnet is really brilliant. Do you do like a a very light stretch of the original image in a separate later and add to the stretched starless version? At what stage do you remove the stars using Starnet?

Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction of a star mark tutorial, and when to use it. If I open an image in PS and then start stretching, when do I need to start masking? (Photoshop and APP used) Thanks in advance Adam.

Thanks again Ciaran. I think I need to master star masks (read that as start using them).

Very nicely done. How are you finding TNAI? I've starting using it myself but find it can be a little harsh even with the settings at 1, and it can introduce artefacts around the stars.

Thanks Martin. I do feel a bit sorry for the ED80, but it's been with me from the beginning and I'm sentimental 😫 But it really struggles on all but the bright targets. This was 20 mins subs binned 2x2 as well.

Thanks Martin, yes I agree the stars are too large. I use a variety of star reduction methods involving selecting them and feathering, but I find that you often tell from looking at it closely. Starnet does a good job, I would use it to remove stars from NB data prior to stretching but havent used it on broadband data.

This is a bit of mismash of misaligned data, from the past couple of years, the most recent data captured in October. I used my ED80 and Epsilon 180, along with the QHY9 and 383L+, and Ha Oiii and Sii filters. Ha = 10.25 hours Oiii = 3.5 hours Sii = 2.0 hours I left a bit of green in the image, as I quite like the transition between yellow and blue. It lacks a bit of clarity and is noisy too despite over 15hours, which I attribute to collecting the data with the moon and hazy skies. Thanks Adam.

Mick I find this website useful to help calculate FOV. I've added some of the options you are looking at, plus the 178 and your 1000d.

Thanks for the advice and input guys, and despite my stubbornness, I have to concede that the APS-C is more than adequate. I'll still get a nice increase in FOV, with increased resolution at the same time, compared to my current KAF8300 sensor.

It is on the website, but not clearly explained without looking for the changes. I would tend to read the changes before doing an update though just as a matter of habit. Driver update change log: https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/change_log/ZWO_ASCOM_driver.txt Then refer to SDK 1.16: https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/change_log/change_ASISDK.txt The change log shows update for 1.16 on 20/11/20: "ASI294MM camera support 44M reslution. Fixed some bugs."

That’s quite an impressive reflection

Surely some vignetting is ok, provided it corrects with flats and doesn’t overly impinge on SNR?

Thanks Ken. It’s unlikely I’ll go for the larger camera but I’m not totally sure yet. I do have a scope that purports to work at 44mm, but tilt and collimation present as an an issue, and with the small pixels it unlikely to deliver on its claims. From what I’ve seen of the Esprit so far, it looks quite excellent. I have a FF Nikon DSLR, and I’ve a new focuser so if I got a clear night I could see how that looks, but the pixels are 4.88um.

That’s nice. I’ll hazard a guess and say that your horizontal spider vanes arent perfectly in line, so you get two spikes that don’t overlap horizontally.