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Lonestar70

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Everything posted by Lonestar70

  1. Mikyg, A 16ft roof would need a minimum of 3 wheels per side or the centre will sag... unsupported side timbers supporting a roof with plywood and steel roof cladding x 8ft wide will be quite a heavy load and WILL BEND... especially with snow on it. Nice obsy design though. Good luck with the build. Best regards. Sandy.
  2. LOL... I think you could be right there Peter. 200mm DOB with full goto complete £ 749.00 185mm APO (OTA only) £ 17,000... throw in a mount for another £1,500 or so... not much change from £20,000. I dread to think what a full 200mm APO and mount would come out at... and I would need a lot of convincing that it would produce much better visual results. Think I will stick to what I have got Ho Hum Keep happy.
  3. Hi, This one should do what you need and is MPLAB compatible. http://proto-pic.co.uk/mplab-compatible-mini-usb-pic-programmer/ Hope this helps. Best Regards.
  4. The purpose of the 2 outer bolts is to permit adjustment for cone error... they are not meant for locking. I agree it is a poor design and the bolts supplied are generally of poor/dubious quality. Hope the OP manages to get back up and running soon. Best regards. Sandy.
  5. Hi James, I regret to tell you... my eldest is 48 and I still get those feelings ... You've a long way to go yet Keep happy. Sandy.
  6. Hi Earl, That might work but you would need to make the tracks and bogies from something that did not tarnish (Gold plated tracks and bogies anyone) or you would get poor connection problems quite quickly with any moisture in the air... quite probable in an un-attended and un-heated obssy. Probably easier to achieve/build than a wireless set-up. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  7. Hi Mered, You may need to add a nosepiece for the SW FF/FR... this will allow you to add a light pollution filter if required. http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-adapter-for-skywatcher-focal-reducers.html And yes you will need a different camera adaptor... the SW FF/FR use an M48mm thread not the standard T-2 thread. http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/flo-adapter-for-skywatcher-focal-reducers.html All in all the ED80 on an HEQ5 is a very good combination for AP. I use a finder guider on mine and don't have any trouble finding guide stars. The only other thing you may need eventually is a dew heater strap for the ED80 objective lens, but these can be made quite easily. Clear skies. Best regards. Sandy.
  8. Hi Aenima, I appear to be missing something somewhere... you are asking about a wedge for an Alt/Az mount and you state that the mount is as shown in your Signature. I can only see an EQ5 Goto mount listed... which is a GEM and does not need a wedge... so what is the Alt/Az mount? I am confused Best regards. Sandy.
  9. This is ,in effect, exactly how wireless phone chargers work. The problem would be building the transformer coils and getting them to couple well enough to transfer sufficient voltage and current to charge the battery... you would also need to ensure proper polarity and regulation. Not overly difficult for a phone battery... not so easy for a much larger SLA type battery. Great idea if you can get it to work... who knows, you could make a killing on the market with a good design. Enjoy. Sandy.
  10. Hi Starlight, That is excellent for a 600seconds shot. There does not appear to be much wrong with your tracking, or your polar alignment, the only things I can see are the typical CA around the stars and some field curvature around the extreme edges of the frame... both of which are normal for an ST120 without a field flattener which would get rid of the curvature but not the CA.. Add some guiding and you will be good for many more minutes exposures... only limited really by the Light Pollution. Very well done. Clear skies. Sandy.
  11. With a DSLR camera I would think a filter wheel would be a non-required item, but you may feel that an 0ff-axis guider would be necessary, albeit there may be other things preventing this such as the body size of the DSLR getting in the way. In this case a finder guider would be the better choice. A short 1 1/4" or 2" nosepiece for your camera tee ring would hold a single filter... be it light pollution or other type... this would also allow you to rotate your camera for image alignment. If you eventually decide that a Mono CCD camera with a filterwheel is the next upgrade then the existing backfocus will probably be sufficient anyway... most CCD cameras have a back focus length of around 17- 20mm typically...as against the 46.5mm of your D5100. Moving the mirror by such a large amount will mean you would also need a larger secondary mirror or you would lose a lot of your captured light. I would suggest you did no more than perhaps 12mm to 15mm of mirror movement max. Hope this helps. Clear skies and good luck. Best regards. Sandy.
  12. Hi Earl, Sorry but it cannot be done... the battery would need to have an inductive charging receiver circuit built in to it... same as phones have. There is very little advantage anyway, you still need to plug the inductive charging mat (as used by phones) into the mains and the rate of charge would be considerably less than a conventional mains charger, hence taking much longer to charge even a small leisure type battery. Stick with a conventional charger that has good battery condition checking. Keep Happy. Sandy.
  13. Hi Peter, The setup you describe sounds correct as far as the location of the eyepiece and the camera on the flip miror unit is concerned. Determine which item requires the focuser closest to fully inward and focus that item using the scopes focuser... then lock the focuser. The other item then needs to be made Parfocal with the first one and this will mean that the second item needs to be withrawn from the flip mirror unit a little at a time until it is focused... if the distance is not more than a few millimeters then a parfocalising ring can be fitted to the 11/4" nosepiece barrel to ensure that it always is inserted the correct amount. If the distance required is more than a few millimeters then a short adaptor tube will need to be fitted in order that you have sufficient barrel length left to lock the item in place. Parfocalising rings and short adaptor tubes can be obtained from FLO or most other good astro retailers. It is much the same process that is required when setting up a camera and an off-axis guider... both items need to be parfocal. I hope this helps. Best regards and good luck. Sandy.
  14. Satellites 'Cosmos 1626' and 'OAO 3 Copernicus' passed through that area at 18.06 and 18.08 respectively. Could have been either of these. Lots of stuff floating about up there. Keep happy.
  15. Hi Starlight 1, The actual position of the Polaris small circle is not really all that critical since you would rotate the RA axis to place it at the correct time anyway. What is far more important is to fit the reticule the right way round. Looking through the polarscope with the small polaris circle at the top the asterism for the plough should be top left with Andromeda at the bottom (slightly right) when adjusting the screws for alignment/centering only use small movements on any screw (about 1/8th turn) before adjusting the other 2 to compensate... also be very carefull not to overtighten any of the screws or you will crack the reticule... the screws bear on the extreme edge of the thin glass. Hope this helps. Take your time. Best regards. Sandy. I should add... on my HEQ5 the polaris circle is at approx 2pm position with the weights straight down.
  16. Hi Spaceboy, I have located the zip file for V3.35 (1 version earlier) on my other PC. See attached. Hope this is of use. Best regards. Sandy. PS. this is the version I am currently using with my HEQ5 and I have no problems with it... so don't see any reason to upgrade at the moment. en_download_caty01366998659.zip
  17. Hi Spaceboy, You would normally update both the handset and the motorboard drivers to be sure of compatability, however, there does seem to be a few irritating problems cropping up with the V3.36 handset version. It is possible to revert the handset to an earlier version V3.27 from the following SW link: - http://www.skywatcher.com/downloads.php?cat=4 Scroll down the page until you see it. Hope this helps. Best regards. Sandy.
  18. Hi Steve from an old Aberdonian and welcome to SGL. Sounds like you've got a workable plan so enjoy the ride... despite the empty wallet Clear skies. Sandy.
  19. Hi Lee_P, Your calculation for required spacer is not correct at 15mm. The M48 - T2 adaptor is 10mm optical path length. The T2 - C-mount adaptor is 22mm optical path length. Your camera backfocus is 19mm. this adds up to 51mm. SW FF/FR requires 55mm backfocus distance, therefore you actually need a 4mm T2 extension between the 2 adaptors. The nearest to this that I am aware of is this 3mm one: - http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p5731_TS-Optics---T2-Extension-Tube---Length-3mm.html With the use of a couple of 0.5mm fibre fine tuning rings in 2 of the screwed joints this would be perfect, I don't think the available thread lengths would allow for thicker rings. Unfortunately FLO don't carry this 3mm adaptor. The other place to try would be 'Modern Astronomy' they carry a good number of odd adaptors, including some of the Teleskop-express ones. Hope this makes sense and you manage to get sorted. Best regards. Sandy.
  20. Hi Lee_P, Yes they will do the job with the exception of the spacer rings (3rd item you listed)... these are for very fine tuning and you may need some larger ones... like these: - http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/t2-extension-tube-set.html The thin rings you listed can be used in conjunction with these if only a small difference in length is required. The extension size you need will depend on the back focus of your camera. ( front of camera body to image sensor)... subtract this value and the focal lengths of the 2 main adaptors from 55mm... the difference will be the value you require. Good luck. Sandy.
  21. Lead shot http://www.diverswarehouse.co.uk/index.php/cPath/41_1037 277Kg will be a bit more than £250.00 I would guess I think concrete would be a little more in our price bracket. Sandy.
  22. Hi Lee_P, The M48 adaptor you currently have is for a DSLR camera so won't be suitable for you requirement. What you need are these: - http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3504_TS-Adaptor-from-M48--2--filter-thread--to-T2---low-profile.html http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p288_TS-Adaptor-from-T2-to-C-Mount-thread.html You may also require a couple of T2 extension tubes of appropriate length to fit between them so as to bring your Backfocus to the required 55mm +/- 0.5mm between FF/FR and camera image plane... this distance is critical in order to retain a true flat field. A selection of these can be found here: - http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/index.php/cat/c124_Extension-Rings.html Hope this helps. Good luck. Sandy.
  23. Hi there, A x3 barlow will move the focal point a good bit outside the focuser so you will probably need a short 1 1/2" or 2" (38mm or 50mm) extension between the barlow and your eyepiece... this will bring the focal point within the movement range of your focuser. Hope this helps. Sandy.
  24. Are you taking out a second and third Mortgage then... have you seen the price of lead shot Keep happy. Sandy.
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