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jonathan

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About jonathan

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  1. You can make a collimation cap using the cap that fits in the eyepiece holder (assuming you have it, I think most scopes come with one). Measure out where the middle is and drill a 1 or 2mm hole (recommended to use a hobby hand drill, basically a handle for a drill bit, it's very soft plastic). A Cheshire should help but is not essential, ultimately you'll perform a star test probably outside on a clear night, pick a bright star (Polaris is a popular choice) and defocus until you see concentric fuzzy rings as per your telescope's manual.
  2. Zermelo summed things up pretty nicely. OIII for typical nebulae is a pretty good bet, but keep in mind that OIII is Oxygen (blue/green), which won't help for red / infra red (Hydrogen?) nebulae; something to keep in mind is that our human eyes cannot perceive things like IR or UV, the typical grey misty nebula cloud we see visually is usually the green part of the spectrum as that's what our eyes have adapted to see in the dark. I have been told that an orange / red filter is good for increasing contrast on Mars, and perhaps green can help with Jupiter, though I have yet to try this my
  3. +1 To what Tiny Clanger said about the L bracket, definitely don't buy a plastic one.
  4. I haven't used this particular offering but from what I've seen and heard of Bresser they're a reputable brand, and this looks like a decent setup for the money - solid dual-arm mount, nice looking red dot finder, polar wedge, probably very similar OTA construction to 127 Maks by Celestron and Skywatcher (possibly exactly the same, in fact). I have looked through a smaller Celestron Mak and it was a very decent scope for the size. Note that to get the most out of it you'll need to also arrange a 12v power supply - either a mains fed step-down transformer or (my preference) a 12v leisure
  5. Nice! I'd also consider looking for a cheap camera bag with compartments for the smaller items, if you didn't fancy a metal flight case with pluck foam. I think with any of these DIY travel / storage solutions the key is usually to keep the original foam packing as it'll be the best snug fit for the scope.
  6. I stand corrected, good sir! Still always a good idea to be wary of cheap items and get opinions from people who've actually bought and used them (I haven't had that particular diagonal but I've experienced other cheap stuff from China, it's been... so so. Some has been utter carp).
  7. Unless you have some specific requirement or desire such as very wide field (which probably will entail an expensive eyepiece to make the most of it) then I'd say 1.25" should suffice for now at least, especially if money is a bit tight. The only reason I have a 2" diagonal is for one 2" SWA wide angle eyepiece, which weighs about the same as a bag of sugar so needs a strong mount and diagonal just to hold it, the views through it are magnificent though. That Svbony one sounds almost too good to be true, probably worth a shot for the money but only if you can afford to lose £20, with the
  8. From data I've seen, it's water vapour in the atmosphere that generates warming, which may or may not change (largely unpredictable) weather and climate patterns. I find it interesting to note that almost all predictions and computer models produced over the years have proven to be inaccurate when it comes to climate science, there are just too many variables (if a butterfly farts, does it rain in the next country?) So, take that however you like, my conclusion from it is that climates change constantly, and with one as complex as the one on earth we just have to get used to it, especial
  9. I use a large Curver plastic crate with the original foam packing that the scope came with (8SE, almost the same scope). The Curver crate is orange so easy to see in the dark, fits nicely in the boot of my car. If you don't have the original foam packing then I'm sure a substitute stiff foam arrangement could be organised (e.g. someone who just bought a big TV or whatever).
  10. A lot, thanks! Couldn't help reading 'Does this help?' in the deep voice Blackadder does in the episode 'Head' when he's pretending to be Farrow!!
  11. I think I need lots of pictures, instructional diagrams, and probably a video showing the exact procedure because at the moment my mind is in major confusion mode! Just wish I was able to take it to my local astro society (of which I am a member), I know someone there would probably be able to show me in a few minutes. Damn you, lockdown!!
  12. +1 for giving Goto a miss, unless you can buy the all-singing-all-dancing does-absolutely-everything-for-you which also costs-a-flipping-fortune, then it is going to cause a lot of disappointment for those times when it just doesn't work, or it takes an hour or more to overcome some finnicky setup woes. Even if you did buy that fancy do-everything Goto, if (or when) that refuses to work properly then you'd likely have even less clue about how to make it go (the more parts it has, the more there is to go wrong). I've owned a Celestron NexStar Goto, I know they can work well but also they can
  13. How do I put the primary dot in the Cheshire ring? That sentence makes almost no sense to me, sorry.
  14. I did some more fine adjustment to the secondary tilt, looks perfect to me now (near as dammit perfect circle when the Mire de Collimation circles are overlaid). So I removed the green felt and paper that was blocking the tube, and I'm left scratching my head because my next view down the collimation cap doesn't match Astro-Baby's, and doesn't match what she says (or am I reading it wrong again?) I don't know how to interpret what's going on here, my collimation looks so far out compared to the photos in the guide, I can't understand why. First photo is with the collimation cap, second
  15. Can't say that I know the mount, but just as an experiment could you setup the telescope (if it's possible) 'the wrong way around', so that what is usually pointing East is now pointing West. Run the telescope the 'wrong way around' and see if the error still occurs on the same side of the mount (e.g. if it occurred on the East side, then see if it now occurs on the West side). This should indicate whether it's something you're doing, something the software is doing, or something the hardware is doing. If it's still doing the thing on the same side of the mount then I'd say it sounds me
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