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Everything posted by Lonestar70

  1. Hi Chris, I agree, nothing wrong with the insulation material... just need to seal it from external access by criters. As for the Vapour barrier, yes you should use it on the PVC clad walls as well... UPVC cladding overlaps are fine for keeping water ( rain) out but not drafts, damp air and small bugs ... there will be small gaps along the overlaped faces and small insects and wind can get through... this is especially necessary if you are going to insulate the walls and add an inner skin, as it will also prevent damp air penetrating into the wall insulation... which, in turn, will result in the inside skin rotting from the insulation side. All good fun is it not?. Keep up the good work. Best regards. Sandy.
  2. Hi Chris, Good to see you making some progress reducing that pile of timber... looking good so far. I bet you found out just how fast wood glue goes off whilst doing those long joints... especially in the HEAT. I too, would suggest getting some toe protection... better to have hot feet than risk a broken (or worse) toe.... oh!!... and a hard hat for the top work. It should go a bit quicker from here, now you are past all the major gluing. Keep Happy Best Regards.
  3. Hi Guys, A word of caution regarding rechargable power tanks. Skywatcher and Celestron mounts will start playing up, or even stop working, when your battery voltage drops below 11v... although items such as dew heater bands will still work (but at a reduced power). Whilst it is true that a leisure battery will hold up for longer, you cannot drain it fully... this will damage the cells. The minimum recommended voltage per cell (6 per battery) is 1.3v for a leisure battery... giving a discharged battery voltage of 7.8V. For a standard power tank you should charge it when the output voltage drops to 9v. Never leave either type in a discharged state as this will lead to irreversible plate damage. A fully charged battery will self discharge over time and should always be recharged fully before re-using it. A period of 5 weeks storage should not be a problem for either type if it is stored in a dry, cool location. Keep happy. Best regards.
  4. Hi Chris, Hope you are feeling a lot better after your recent ailment. Talk about 'De Ja Vu'... ... I have clear recollections of a similar LARGE pile of timber. One things for sure... you will work up a good sweat cutting that lot up... and will make short work of any remaining flu virus :grin: Hope you have got a good circular saw... or mitre saw... wouldn't want to cut all that up wih a hand saw With luck the weather will hold out long enough for you to get the main frame built... or more. Keep happy. Sandy.
  5. Hi Dan, I assume you are attempting to use a standard weight training weight for the additional. You could fit/clamp it between the 2 Standard skywatcher weights but that would mean moving all three when balancing... can get tricky for fine tuning. Alternatively, FLO sell spare weights for the HEQ5, or you could buy the sky Watcher counterweight bar extender (also from FLO). Hope one of these will get you balanced. Best Regards. Sandy.
  6. Hi Guys and Gal's, Gina... the following may help you to temporarily, or permanently, disable any scheduled activities. Task scheduling in Windows. XP · To prevent a task from running until you decide to let it run again, right-click the task in the Scheduled Tasks window, and then click Properties. On the General tab, clear the Enabled check box. Select the check box again to enable the task when you are ready to let the task scheduler run it again. Windows 7 and Vista Disable a Task from Running 3 out of 8 rated this helpful - Rate this topic Applies To: Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 R2, Windows Server 2012, Windows Vista If you want to stop a task from running for a certain period of time, you can disable the task. The task can be enabled at a later time so that it is allowed to run. For more information, see Enable a Task to Run. To disable a task from running by using the Windows interface 1. If Task Scheduler is not open, start Task Scheduler. For more information, see Start Task Scheduler. 2. Find and click the task folder in the console tree that contains the task you want to disable. 3. In the console window, click the task that you want to disable. 4. In the Actions pane, click Disable . The Disable command will only be available in the Actions pane if the task is enabled. Enable a Task to Run 2 out of 10 rated this helpful - Rate this topic Applies To: Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 R2, Windows Server 2012, Windows Vista When a task is disabled, which stops a task from running, you can enable the task so that it can be run on demand or when it is scheduled to run. To enable a task to run by using the Windows interface 5. If Task Scheduler is not open, start Task Scheduler. For more information, see Start Task Scheduler. 6. Find and click the task folder in the console tree that contains the task you want to enable. 7. In the console window, click the task that you want to enable. 8. In the Actions pane, click Enable . The Enable command will only be available in the Actions pane if the task is disabled. A lot of the problems with USB are bandwidth related... Camera's are allocated the isochronous communications group priority with up to 90% of the available bandwidth... leaving just 10% for control and interupt devices. Another common problem is failing to realise that the bandwidth is allocated to the USB HOST controller built into your PC/laptop. Most modern pc/laptops have at least 2 USB host controllers and the available USB ports are shared between them. On Laptops, which often only have 3 USB ports, 2 can be on one controller and the 3rd will be on the other. If you plug a hub into one USB port, with your mount + guidecam connected and then plug a DSLR into a separate USB port and both USB ports are running from the same HOST Controller, then the 2 cameras will be forced to share the 90% allocation... which could easily result in the guide camera not being able to respond quickly enough... if the DSLR just happens to be downloading at the time... RESULT... lost comms. It is always better to keep cameras on different HOST CONTROLLERS... which can be found out from the DEVICE MANAGER. Poor quality cables can also be a very significant issue. All Good fun though. Keep Happy. Best regards. Sandy.
  7. I should also have said... you can make a resized copy of your photos using Photoshop or most other photo editing software... some will also allow watermarking. I find FastStone a bit quicker to use when I have a batch to do... especially if I need to watermark them. You can save the reduced pictures as separate files... thus retaining your original. Best Regards. Sandy.
  8. Hi, You will need to reduce the size of your pictures to around 800 x 600 pixels. If you need a suitable programme then I can recommend 'Faststone Photo Reducer' Available as a free download : - http://www.faststone.org/index.htm This will also allow you to watermark your pictures if you need to. It will work for single pictures or whole batches. Welcome to SGL by the way. Best Regards. Sandy.
  9. If you are not getting the Black screen, as per the screenshots suggested above, you may need to change the Screen Theme. Go right down to the bottom left of the page... you will see a button marked Change Theme... click on this and select SGL 2012. This should give you the black screen background, and everything else should appear as shown. Regards. Sandy.
  10. Hi Steve, That is what SGL is all about... helping each other. I am pleased you have finally got it all working, no matter where you got the files from. Just goes to show... DON'T always BELIEVE what M.Soft says when it comes to drivers... any problems... CLEAR and RELOAD. It's looking fairly settled for most of the week so hope you can manage to get some photos. Best Regards. Sandy.
  11. Sorry about the changing font size i the above... not sure why it did that... it only showed up after I had posted. Very ODD. Sandy
  12. Hi Steve, Ok, the usb-serial converter looks ok on the surface, however, I am not convinced it has true RS232 outputs/inputs. The PL2303HXD chip is a 3.3 volt device and can only accept inputs between 1.8V - 3.3v. If your device does not also have the SP213EH level converter chip, which converts 3.3v to true RS232 levels then it will only be outputing 3.3v signals... which can create problems with communications. The RS232 level converter changes the 0v - 3.3v signal levels to +/- 9v signal levels, and Vice-Versa, giving much greater drive capability. I use an FTDI converter which has this level conversion built in and I have no problems with it. I use the FTDI US232R - 10 premium device. The ser2pl file you had to download is in fact a windows .sys file and is needed for the converter to work properly with windows. One possible problem is that the prolific installer can corrupt this file... NOTE... this corruption can also occur with the MAC version. so It might pay you to delete all the prolific files and drivers, including this one and try re-loading everything using the following method: - I have installed and used this technique on XP, Vista and Win7 (32 and 64 bit). And I never ran the “compatibility wizard or tried to change the compatibility. I just ran the installer on whatever system I put it on… Apparently the driver from http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31 DOES work however I think the installer program corrupts SER2PL.SYS, the very driver that is needed. Here’s my workaround. Download from Prolific http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?ID=31 1. PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1.5.0.zip 2. PL2303DRemover_v1001.zip And from http://sysfiles-download.com/phome/?phome=DownSoft&softid=657&pathid=0&pass=fb92fd764ef001a1d4385d7429dff2b4&p=::: 1. Download ser2pl.sys 2. Don’t worry about the other 3 or 4 files that come with it ALL YOU NEED IS SER2PL.SYS Ok let’s get started, * REMEMBER WHERE YOU EXTRACTED ALL THE FILES TO INCLUDING SER2PL.SYS * After all downloads and extractions from Zip, run the prolific driver installer. * Run the PL2303 remover program, all this does is remove the SER2PL.SYS file from your system. NOW comes the fun part (/sarc) Go to your device manager (your Prolific USB to Serial cable plugged in) * XP> control panel > System> Hardware tab>Device Manager. Click on “ports (com & LPT) * Or however you know how to get there! You should see the “prolific” device, “Prolific USB to Serial COM Port (com#)” If you don’t it’s not plugged in! * right click and select “update driver” * select “install from a list, or specific place(advanced) * On the next menu select the radio button “search for the best driver in these locations” * Deselect the tick box for “search for removable media” * Select the tick box for “Include this location in the search” * Browse to the folder where you extracted and saved the SER2PL.SYS file. * Press next and install the driver. Your USB to SERIAL cable now works! This is the process I used for XP and it is in general the same process I used for Vista and Win7 (32 and 64 Bit). This should eliminate any possible problem with the prolific side of things... other than the signal levels. It is possible that something is not set up correctly in APT, however, I am not familiar enough with it to suggest what. Try simplifying things a little... Take APT out of the equation for now... Download DSLR Shutter from: - http://www.Stark-Labs.com It is a free programme which is just a straight forward and simple intervalometer. Once installed it has a very simple user interface... to connect to your USB converter just select the correct port number and click connect. Set the number of exposures, any delay between exposures, and the exposure length and click go. NOTE... used on it's own you will save any exposures to your camera's memory card. If used with another camera tethering programme, such as the Canon EOS capture supplied with the camera, then you would be able to save to PC. I hope all this makes sense. let us know how you get on. Best Regards. Sandy.
  13. Hi Steve, Sorry to hear that the resistor change has not helped, although I would leave it at 470 ohms. Which USB - SERIAL adaptor did you buy?... I assume it came with a disc with the necessary drivers on it? Which programme asked for a missing file?... it is certainly looking like a software issue. Keep positive... we will get it sorted. Best Regards. Sandy.
  14. Hi Christoph, If you are using LIVE VIEW on your PC then you could try AlsReticle... it is free to download. http://alsreticulev3.software.informer.com/ This can overlay you liveview screen and can be adjusted for brightness and also rotated. Hope this is of some help. Best Regards. Sandy.
  15. Hi Watersblue, Just been looking at the user manual for your 350d (downloaded version) and a couple of things came to light that may be confusing the issue. Have you got 'Mirror Lock up' enabled?... if so then you will need to close the shutter button twice to take a picture. 1st full press locks the mirror. 2nd full press takes the picture. The mirror will return to it's down position after 30 seconds if you don't press the shutter a second time. if this is the case then I suggest you disable mirror lock up to simplify things. It would appear that you can enable the self timer when using BULB mode which will provide a 2 second delay after triggering the shutter, to allow the mirror to stabilise in the raised position, before the exposure is taken. This might be a good option to use, if the mirror causes shake/blurring, but you will need to add 2 seconds to your exposure time to compensate for the self timer. See 'Mirror Lockup' page in your manual. (page 94 on my downloaded version) I don't use 'Mirror lockup' with my Nikon D90 and have not experienced any problems with blurring, but I cannot say you will not get any... try it and see. Hope the 470 ohm resistor gets you going. Best Regards. Sandy.
  16. I don't use APT as I use a Nikon camera... so I am not sure exactly where everything is on APT. Under long exposure you will find a list of available ports, one of thee will be your USB - SERIAL adapter. Check under your computers control panel > device Manager > Ports and establish which port it is connected to. Select this port number in APT. I don't think you need to worry about setting up pin 7 (RTS) as I believe APT already has this set to RTS (pin 7) as default. For some other software you also need to tell the software which pin on the serial port is used for shutter release in which case you would specify pin 7 or RTS. Next you need to find the settings window for the number of exposures you want to take... this will also have a setting box for the exposure length... both of these need to be set before it will operate the camera correctly. There is probably also a setting box for DELAY between exposures... this should be set for 10- 20 seconds to allow the previous exposure to download and to allow the sensor to cool down between exposures. You should not need to connect the tip to the ring... the switch is made between the tip and the body(sleeve). Hope you get it working. Best regards.
  17. What software are you using to trigger your camera?... are you telling it what port the shutter release is on and have you configured it to use pin 7 (RTS) as the trigger. Some software also requires pin 4 (DTR) and pin 6 (DSR or DTS) to be connected together. I use the revised circuit which works well for both Canon and Nikon cameras. It also gives you a visual reference of being in an Active or Passive state by using a bi-coloured LED. DSLR%20SERIAL%20CABLE%20-%20NIKON%20TWEAK.pdfHi, NOTE** you do not need the PIN diode for a canon. If you are using a 3.3v or 5v USB to serial adaptor then the 2k2 ohm resistor is somewhat too large and will not allow enough current to activate the photo diode inside the opto isolator. at 5v 2.2k will only allow 2.2mA and at 3.3v this will only be 1.5mA... typically the opto requires around 5 - 6mA to operate adequately. Try reducing the value of the resistor to 470 ohm. Hope this helps a bit. Best regards.
  18. You could try soft mounts for your fans. http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/rubber-fan-mounts. These really do reduce noise and vibration. How are you planning on getting the air flow from the camera fan to pass over the sensor? or are you just blowing the air over the outside of the camera? Hope this is of help. Best regards.
  19. Now if I could only think of a way to make the workshop roof slide!!!!!!
  20. Hi Chris, You would be better adding the additional 1" (2 cm) to all the left hand wall uprights... this will then ensure the wall remains square to the base... it will also save you having to account for an angled wall when you are doing the roof. If yopu also add te additional timber to the top outside of the floor frame this will seal any gap and allow the flooring to fit without any angled cutting. Don't forget to fit a waterproof (breathable) membrane to the outside of the frames before fitting the cladding. Keep up the great job you are doing. Best Regards.
  21. Hi Chris, Make your frame and floor base to fit the 5m length so that the joists fit fully on the footings as planned at 90 deg. When you come to adding the outer cladding, if you first nail on some 2" x 1" or 3" x 1" on the outside of the effected frame this will buy you the necessary clearance to allow the cladding to fall below the footings as planned. I did much the same thing when I built my Workshop, which had 27" high stub walls all round. The outer cladding on this comes 18" below the top of the walls. Hope this helps. Looking great so far though. Best regards.
  22. Hi Spacedawg, If your mount is a manual heq5 then you will need the synscan upgrade to allow for Go-to; which will then also give you the option of using EQMOD/EQdir and controlling your scope via a laptop or PC. The EQMOD/EQDIR option cannot be used without the upgrade. GO-TO can help in locating objects in the sky, but, learning your way around the sky with the aid of a good planitarium programme (such as stellarium... a free download) or a book with star maps (such as Turn left at Orion) can be very rewarding. GO-TO will get you there, but it won't teach you how to do it. Best regards.
  23. Hi, As Peter has stated, you will need a step ring. Both of your Nikon lenses have 52mm filter threads and the Orion LP filter has 48mm (T2) thread. The following adapter will do what you require: - http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p1427_Adaptor-from-T2-thread-to-M52---for-projection-photography.html Hope this helps. Clear Skies.
  24. Hi Tim, and welcome to SGL. You will get plenty of help from the members here... just ask the questions. Clear Skies and enjoy.
  25. Hi Mike, and welcome back to the hobby and to SGL. Can't help much with filters for LP, other than I use a SW LP filter which is good for the very small amount of LP I get... mostly Sodium... not quite sure how it performs under heavy LP though, also I don't know how good it is for the newer LED types, we don't have any of those in this part of the world. Clear Skies,
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