michael8554

From memory there's a response from Andrew Johansen about this on Cloudy Night Forum, maybe the Meade Section, something like SGP uses the wrong kind of "slew" to fine-tune the position. Not the fault of the driver Michael

From the spec on the QHY site it looks to me that this OAG was made to easily connect to QHY cameras and EFW's, but could be used with a DSLR with adapters. I'd return it and get an OAG suitable for DSLR's, plenty available. Michael

There are many posts suggesting that adding a clip-in filter will correct Autofocus after an Astro Mod to a DSLR . If it does (????), it must be because of refraction, as vlaiv has demonstrated. Michael

Hi Adam I assume the APT Focus Tool uses the LiveView image, so should give good focus, even if the UHC Clip Filter isn't compensating perfectly for the removed LPF #1 ? Also the UHC Filter spec says it removes out-of-band IR, so that shouldn't be a factor in the poor Red focus. So that only leaves the lens......... Michael

Thought I'd explained that - Star Bloat on Refractors, and additionally the retained filter preserves the Dust Removal function, and protects the sensor. Yes, which ever mod you do, when you reinstall the sensor, the difference in height of the three sensor mounting points, as set up in the factory, has to be maintained to prevent tilt. This is the best description of modding Canon DSLRs, IMO. http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html Michael

Just be aware that the 60D sensor is spring-loaded, so you'll need to measure it's position very accurately, or you'll have a tilted sensor when you reassemble. Earlier DSLR's before the 500D had sensor tilt adjusted with thin shims, very easy to put those back and preserve the sensor position. Michael

Not sure that faster DIGIC processing has any impact on the download of a 300 second exposure..........? I would imagine that there is some processing of Raw by the DIGIC, and that each version is an improvement on the previous (??) so go for the 650D. Michael

In the case of Canon DSLRs, removing the #LPF-2 Filter allows more Ha in, which is good. The #LPF-1 Filter remains, this blocks IR which can cause Star Bloat on Refractors, not on Reflectors. AutoFocus will in incorrect unless adjusted by the Modder, if not corrected only focusing with LiveView will be correct. Same for Full Spectrum mod, both #LPF Filters removed, IR will be allowed in, Star Bloat on Refractors, I 'm not convinced it's a good mod to do. Michael

Push-fit fittings ? Or the other type, which are solvent welded, not sealed with RTV.............. :-< When the water in the concrete evaporates, that leaves voids that can make the concrete permeable. Michael

Not a user myself, but images might be strored here ?

With your ASI 120MM Binned X2 it might cope with the fairly focal length. But the basic focuser, plus the long extension to replace the star diagonal, might just be too wobbly for accurate guiding. And how will you mount it ? Nothing to loose by trying I suppose. Michael

Deep Sky Objects like these are classed as Widefield, best imaged with your 80mm refractor with the dslr connected without the Svbony attachment. The Svbony attachment will magnify the scopes image, so will be better suited to imaging tiny objects such as Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. Michael

Processing gets tricky with that degree of gradient, maybe use a Light Pollution Filter on the camera ? Take a lot more of those short exposures. Turn off the DSLR Sensor Cleaning. Yes you have lost the galaxy, try lassooing it in the first image and make it a new layer, apply Curves, then you can merge into the de-gradiented backgound. Michael

Is this a new fault, you said the problem was the mount wouldn't move in RA ? Which camera is this? What version of OS are you running ? Michael

Here's one of your subs heavily stretched, so the reflection is on your subs: Michael

The Calibrations you tried on the 19th with EQMOD were all completed, showing that PHD2 was able to guide the mount in all directions 😆 !! But there were no attempts to actually guide after the Calibrations ? Calibrations took over 40 steps, it should only take 10 to 15 steps per axis. So you should check that your PHD2 setup figures for FL and pixel size are correct, or try doubling the Calibration step in Advanced Setup / Guiding. And is "Enable Mount Guide Output" ticked in that same window ? With ASCOM and EQMOD, Calibrate at Dec 0, and use that Cal for the rest of the night, PHD2 will compensate for the actual Dec of your target. Michael

I have a Canon 6D that I bought and Astro-modded for £450, and I'm very happy with the Ha response, overall sensitivity, and low noise at higher ISO. But if I had £1000 to spend a modified DSLR makes no sense compared to a dedicated cooled OSC. Michael

In absolute terms the 30D is undersampling (3.68 arcsecs/pixel), but I gather this may not be too much of a problem for Widefield imaging, the 1300D is 1.47 arcsecs/pixel. Michael

If you carry out a PHD2 Guide Assistant run, it only nags if PA error is greater than 5 arcmins. That's because they consider 5 arcmins or better is easily guided. So 30 arcsecs is fine. Michael

The 300D, 350D, and 400D don't have Shutter Control via the USB cable, you have to obtain a USB-to-Serial Shutter Cable if you want to use BYEOS, APT etc. Michael

In general 4 digit Canon DSLRs are budget versions of the 3 digit models. Eg 1000D is a budget version of 450D Michael

I thought Rotaters were used to compensate for the Field Rotation on Alt/Az mounted imaging rigs ? So I'm not sure why you need one on your HEQ5 ? Do you have slight Field Rotation on your adjacent images due to poor Polar Alignment ? I would use the Rotate function in PhotoShop etc. Michael

Give framing with a non-reticle eyepiece a go, but I found that camera and eyepiece centre points were a little different, necessitating offsetting in the eyepiece, where the crosshairs helped. Michael

First of all, Mars isn't hard to find, it's not an "invisible" target like most DSOs. Finding an "invisible" DSO on a large-chip camera at common FLs is a good candidate for Plate Solving. But centring a planet on a 1/3" chip at F20 to F30 or so, is much much more difficult. Think about it. The tiny dot that is the planet only has to be a 1/3" off centre to miss the chip completely ! Michael

The Flip Mirror is fine for your SCT, which has a huge range of focus, but for a Newtonian will probably be too "thick" for focus to be obtained. Michael