michael8554

There have been a few problems with 4.2.3 over the past few days, they're up to 4.2.5 with the test builds. But your problem may just be settings. Michael

Google is your friend ? You said in Europe, here's a firm in Germany: http://www.klaushelmi.de/en/ Michael

All those settings look correct. Why don't you post the PHD2 Guidelog, hopefully it includes the Calibration ? Michael

Yes, that's what I was trying to describe. Despite being held by the 3 screws I don't see them being a source of flex. Michael

Hi Craig The non-filter carousal version of the ZWO OAG has M threads on all three interfaces once the 1.25" guidecam adapter is unscrewed from the periscope. The three screws are to hold the Image Camera Interface in the OAG body, and can be tightened and forgotten about. They allow the adapter to be positioned in 3 positions 120 degrees apart. It's a large version of the camera-specific adapter in the T ring, and no more wobbly than those three tiny setscrews in the T Ring. You can buy identical no-name OAGs for less than the ZWO one.

That large 10 second component is a worry often reported on the PHD2 Help Forum. Their suggestion is to use the PHD2 PPEC as you are doing, but set the period to a fixed 10 seconds. Also 3 seconds exposures seems slow ? Long-term I would look at your guidescope in adjustable rings, which can lead to Differential Flexture. Have you ever needed to adjust them ? Probably not, so clamp rings are better. Also I guide at 1300mm with a 200mm guidescope, you could save weight too. The two wires coming off the mount control panel could do with supporting. Michael

You could split your image into RGB in your editing software, convert them to layers, shift R and B to correctly superimpose on G, then flatten to one layer. Michael

The MPCC is suited to Canon DSLRs which are 44mm Back Focus + 11mm for the T Adapter = 55mm Nikons Back Focus is 46.5mm I believe, have you accounted for that difference ? The Barlow makes it difficult to judge what distance to set the MPCC to. But the charts often shown on SGL suggest the camera is too close, as Mark has suggested. Michael

Google is your friend ? Loads of short ones if you look: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Topiky-2-Inch-to-1-25-Inch-Telescope-Eyepiece-Adapter-Ring-Lens-Mount-Adapter/223893785881?hash=item34211c0d19:g:cvoAAOSwUOReOcF1 Michael

We had a garage clear-out recently. I can confirm we can now see Space. Michael

The link from Tenor Viol isn't for PA in my opinion, it's for Star Alignment. After Rough Align, you will have to carry out a Drift Alignment or DARV Alignment, using the wedge controls only. THEN you can carry out the EQ North Align, using only the handset controls to centre each star, and ENTER to confirm each star is centred. Michael

Not my strong suit Michael

So you stop guiding and revolve the dome when nature calls ? Michael

Those 18mm ones are the same width as my single ones ! Looks as though a previous owner has not fitted the right replacements ! Does your door foul on the lower shutter rail brackets when the shutter is opposite the door ? Michael

Hi Jeremy Interested by your images of the new wheels. Did yours have double wheels originally ? If not, why did you go for double ? One of the wheels on my Mk 1 falls off the track at a certain point, double or much wider wheels would stop that on mine. Michael

http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html Michael

Given the very oblique nature of the reflections, a Dew Shield might help. Michael

Hi Gasconman If you're only doing Visual, looking through eyepieces, then roughly pointing north will be good enough. PA only becomes important if you want an object to stay exactly in the middle of the Field of View for a long time, as in Long Exposure Astrophotography. You can get very good PA by Drift Aligning with only a high mag eyepiece, ideally one with a reticle to aid centring. Michael

Good point actually, the setting circles are as impressive as the rest of the scope. Michael

I believe it's the other way round - Device Hub has replaced POTH Michael

Must be very early as it doesn't have High Contrast or Ultra High Contrast on the front ring, or a Primary Mirror Lock on the back. But the pin on the back may be part of a DIY lock. Michael

Hilarious...... Michael

Your link was to a Multispeed Handset, so I assumed low speeds were available. 8X might work, but I'd suggest starting with the lowest setting and find one that gives 12 to 15 steps in the calibration. Michael

The concept for modifying the handset is that you attach a wire carrying the guide commands to a left and to a right slew button contact. So you only need to identify the correct contact with a test meter, the rest of the mod should be as in the Dual Axis mod. Michael

The legend says "Up is -85.5 degrees E of N". I think this means that RA is running from top to bottom of the image. If so the drift is in RA. That means it's not due to poor PA, that movement would be in Dec. Simplest explanation would be slop in the image train, since you say it varies the sky position. The Belt Mod removes Periodic Error caused by the gearbox, but the Periodic Error due to the worm and wormwheel remains. However I seem to remember the worm period is typically 480 seconds on these mounts ? So 10 to 15 minutes would be 2 or 3 cycles, are you sure it's not showing the full drift after 8 minutes ? If you don't want to use the mount PEC you will need to guide if you want longer exposures. But all this assumes I'm right about the image orientation 🙂 Michael