Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_30_second_exp_2_winners.thumb.jpg.b5430b40547c40d344fd4493776ab99f.jpg

Sign in to follow this  
RolandKol

webcam + 10" DOB

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

 

I have Skywatcher DOB 250 Flexitube GOTO and recently noticed HD webcam in my friend's place... ;)

(AUSDOM AW615 1080P Full HD 12.0M USB2.0)

 

So I received it for few of beers and managed to place it into 1.25' EP holder without any struggle.

 

I haven't removed any filters from webcam, just wanted to see if it will fit in and it did, so I was really happy, but...

 

(unfortunately word "but" always comes after word "happy"),

 

but... the only thing I can see on the screen is my Primary and Secondary mirrors ;)

I think, this webcam would be perfect for collimation ;) however, what to do next? 

I want to see something more than just mirrors, - Moon and Jupiter maybe...

I tried to attach 2'' adaptor which comes by default with the telescope to increase the distance between mirrors and webcam... the result is the same.

 

I also used flexitube ability to shorten the tube and reduce Focal length, - no result, just the size of the image is different.

 

Should I try Barlow?

 

 

Capture_0001.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will need to remove the webcam's lens to get it to work. With the webcam's lens in place you will only see the secondary and primary. You will also need to either rehouse the webcam in a suitable box and add a 1.25" nosepiece.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Cornelius Varley said:

You will need to remove the webcam's lens to get it to work. With the webcam's lens in place you will only see the secondary and primary. You will also need to either rehouse the webcam in a suitable box and add a 1.25" nosepiece.

 

yep... silly me, - it works without lens ...

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Jupiter :)

 

Does not look good at all... the dot in the centre, looks like the secondary mirror...

sadly, I woke up too late and had no time to experiment properly...

 

It was with Focuser full way in, otherwise I could not see anything....

 

We have no moon at the moment, so I could not try out on it...

 

Neighbour windows are more or less in focus, but they are only in aprox 500 metres distance.

 

 

Capture_0009.png

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The camera is too far away from the point of focus so hat is why the image is blurred. You can use a barlow lens to move to point of focus outwards sufficiently to achieve focus.  The video shows how to attach a dslr to a Newtonian shows the principle of how the barlow fixes to problem.

A couple of photos of how you are attaching the webcam to the focuser might be helpful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for a nice video Cornelius Varley, it explains everything I need.

I have read about Barlow previously, but I was confused as I had quite a good focus on neighbour windows.

I hope I will receive Barlow quite soon, to experiment further.

While I wait, I will try to attach webcam directly into 2" holder somehow (as it will bring the webcam much closer to the tube), - maybe it will help... As I afraid, I will not be able to keep Jupiter in target with higher magnification.

P.S.

"A couple of photos of how you are attaching the webcam to the focuser might be helpful. " - I simply stick webcam into EP holder instead of the EP, - it fits in quite modestly without external focuser ring.

(it has internal focuser ring which is probably 1.24" diameter which sticks out from the webcam body for around 0.12", so the EP holders are able to catch it, - it is not perfect, but good enough for initial experiments).

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Jenova
      My son has said he would love to look at the stars and planets.
      ive looked at local sales but not sure which would be best for him to see planets & stars 
      any advice would be greatly appreciated £200 budget and happy to buy secondhand to get him a  telescope with stronger focus.
      2 for sale locally that look good but I know nothing !!



    • By Astronut_Al
      Hi everyone, 
      Can anyone confirm (or refute) - have I imaged Ganymede and Europa in orbit around Jupiter or is that just wishful thinking? (Only equipment used was a Lumix G7 with 150mm zoom lens - effectively 300mm with 2x crop factor - and of course a tripod).
      It appears to be the case and yet I can't quite allow myself to believe it...
      Thanks from an old newbie.



    • By Kropster
      SkyWatcher Skyliner 250 PX   10" Dobsonian Telescope.
      This telescope needs a new home as I have used it very little, having become more interested in astrophotography rather than observing.
      In good condition with base modified with lazy Susan bearing, angle scale with pointer and bubble level, Machine-Dro digital RA angle gauge (needs new battery) to complement the scale on the base. Also included is a sturdy plywood base with adjustable feet to stand the telescope on so it can be leveled easily.
      Two eyepieces are included...10mm and 25mm.
      No finderscope is included, but these are readily available.
      There are a couple of small smudges on the mirror (see photo) but I expect these will wash off easily and don't affect performance.
      Focus wheel rubber grips have split, but operation is not affected.
      Collection only due to size from Swindon or possibly Abingdon in office hours.
      £225
      Thanks for looking.





    • By Grigs
      Just thought I would say hi to everyone. 
      I am a Noob, but have been googling astronomy for past year, so am familiar with some of the lighter terminology.  
      Most of my googles have directed me to this site, so I have already read forum posts here numerous times.
      Have already acquired quite a bit of kit, but just not found the time to try it out yet. 
      This should hopefully change soon as I am expecting to have a lot more spare time in a couple of months. 
      Being in the Midlands in the UK, I am not currently missing much, due to the current cloudy weather here. 
      I am looking forward to picking your brains and in time posting some of my experiences here. 
      Kindest regards, 
      Geo.
       
    • By Matty_C
      Hello all,
      I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s).
      I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times.
      I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know).
      I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images.
      I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult.
      I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand.
      My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone.
      I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at.
      Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error?
      Thanks in advance,
       
      Matt.
       
       
       
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.