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Geoff Lister

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About Geoff Lister

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    Proto Star

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  • Interests
    Railways (full-size and model), radio-controlled model boats, and astronomy
  • Location
    North Somerset, UK

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  1. +1 for the standard focuser with the Lacerta dual-speed upgrade. I fitted the upgrade to my Skyliner 250PX and found it easy to fit, and a pleasure to use. Geoff
  2. Hello Chris, welcome to the forum. I have the Skymax 127mm Mak, and I tend to start my observing sessions with my 32mm Plossl. Next, I tend to use a 8-24mm zoom, to get the best magnification/visual clarity compromise, particularly when viewing Jupiter and Saturn. My version came with a 6x30 straight-through finderscope, and I replaced it with a 6x30 RACI version - much easier when aligning on high-altitude stars. Geoff
  3. I used the main objective dust-cap, supplied with the TS70 kit, and part of an A4 sheet of solar film. The main cap has a smaller secondary cap, and if this is removed, it reveals a nice hole, just right for a solar film sandwich. I made up 2 rings of cereal-packet cardboard, and using sticky film made up a solar film sandwich. I then used a bit more sticky film to mount this inside the TS70's cap. I used a bit more of the card and some PVC electrical tape, to lengthen the sides of the cap, so it would not blow off. Geoff
  4. The version of Starsense fitted in the SkyProdigy has 6 possible settings to help the alignment. "Hazy/Urban" seems to be the default. "Full Moon" is probably the best for northern summer. The others are "Suburban", "Dark", "Windy" - to ignore blurred stars, and "Custom" - it may be possible to adjust the settings to get alignment under semi-dark conditions. I have also found that, if the camera is not finding quite enough stars, it is worth doing a power down, rotate by about 20 degrees azimuth, power up and start again. If this fails, or you have obstructed views, there is a manual alignment
  5. There is an on-line web resource site for this book at https://www.cambridge.org/turnleft Enjoy the Heritage 130P. I have had mine for several years, and it works well for me. Geoff
  6. I have Starsense camera and software built-in to my Celestron SkyProdigy mount. The camera is a 640 x 480 pixel device, similar to a basic webcam, and needs fairly dark skies to "see" enough stars to perform its plate solving. If it cannot "see" several tens of stars, it tries another section of sky, but eventually gives up. I also have the Skywatcher Skymax mount. The Synscan software requires the user to select alignment stars, and manually centre them in the eyepiece. I recon that I can perform a "Brightest Star" 2-star alignment, using bright stars such as Vega, Altair or Capella, a g
  7. Unfortunately, consumer-grade tripod-mounted optical equipment is supplied with an internal 1/4" - 20 UNC thread. It would be a brave manufacturer that used an ISO metric thread form; the returns, under warranty would be huge. I prefer Whitworth, but my tool box contains something suitable for most imperial and metric fastenings; and if necessary, 4 different-sized adjustable spanners, pump pliers, and a Stillson wrench. My "come in handy" box (well lots of boxes and biscuit tins) contains an assortment of nuts, bolts and washers. I also invested in a 1/4" - 20 UNC tap, so I can add tripo
  8. Mine came with 20mm, 10mm & 4mm eyepieces. I tend to use a 32mm Plossl and 7-21mm zoom. Geoff
  9. The dovetail bar on my Travelscope 70 fits several of my Skywatcher/Celestron mounts and has a 1/4" -20 UNC internal thread for use with much better photographic tripods (than the one supplied).
  10. I'm not sure about this particular one, but some handsets have an internal, replacable, button cell to power the real-time clock, when the handset/mount is powered down. Geoff
  11. Hello, and welcome to SGL. If you could tell us the model of the telescope, we should be able to help you. Celestron make a wide range of different telescopes, and the setup instructions are somewhat different for each type. With any new telescope, it is worth setting it up during the day; it's much easier to focus on a distant tree/post/building, than it is a star. Geoff
  12. I have just been viewing the Sun with my SS60 + standard diagonal, Revelation binoviewer and a pair of 32mm Plossls. I could not achieve focus, so I unscrewed the black lens unit from my Celestron X2 Barlow, and screwed it into the nose-piece of the binoviewer, in place of a filter. I then had plenty of focal adjustment range. It was not as easy to get a good inter-pupil adjustment for both eyes as it is during night use, but certainly worth a bit more experimentation. Geoff
  13. A few years ago, I had problems with the azimuth axis on my Skyliner 250PX, particularly jumpy operation at the lower slew rates. The connector on one of the ribbon cables was partly pulled off the pins on the underside of the control board. I think it was from one of the encoders, and it was not obvious without unscrewing the board. It looks as though there was a post-design modification to feed the ribbon cables through some ferrite rings, probably to meet EMC emissions/susceptibility requirements. This makes the cables effectively shorter, and thus a tight fit under the board. I re-seated t
  14. Counterweight Shaft The mount is supplied with a 150mm long by 19mm diameter counterweight shaft, and a 1.4kg counterweight. These feature in some of my earlier photos, and, as also mentioned above, the shaft works fine with the (20mm internal diameter) counterweights from my Skywatcher SkyTee 2. Different OTAs require different counterweight combinations at different distances along the shaft. To avoid having to balance the mount after each change of OTA, particularly for the larger ones, I used my modeler's mini-drill, with a cutting disk, and marked the shaft at (roughly) 1cm intervals
  15. Most diagonals and Barlows come with dust caps at each end, and most OTAs also have a dust cap at the focuser. I turned one of these into a collimation cap by drilling a 1mm hole in its centre. Geoff
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